Earth1
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Posts posted by Earth1
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I guess you would be able to see the drive pinion turning on the dif. with the driveshaft out, there are only 8 bolts holding the drivesharft in place, hopefully that works. If the pinion (or more correctly the flange) moves while shifted into 2wd the hubs are stuck and the CVs have to come out to change the hubs to get on the road. If you need new hubs, you might want to just upgrade to manuals. Like mentioned, you can get them for about $100, replacement autos will probably cost more from a dealership. You need 27 spline hubs; Warn, MileMarker, Superwinch, and a rare Dana are probably the only options.
Simon, can you see anythhng turning in the dif through the input tube with the CVs out?
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Maybe some custom progressive shocks? How high is the rear? Maybe some ProComps for a lifted JGC with the ends cut would work. I have ProComps and the ride is fairly stiff, more than stock Nissan and stock JGC, but probably not as much as the ford coils. I think shortening them definatley made them stiffer. Go join and talk to the guys at RoninWheelers.com There are quite a few SAS there and they have tried a lot of different setups. AKCY98... from here is Ryan Gee over there. I know he's done some experimenting.
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I hate to ask stupid ?s but are the plugs gapped right and all the wires in the right spot? Could the dist be defective?
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Do you know what needs replaced? Is the ride harsh and sloppy? Nasty sounds? You can diagnose the steering, wheel bearings, CVs, and bushings just by jacking it up and checking things out. If you don't have the time to do it yourself, at least you can know what you're getting into before going to a shop, hit em armed. Labor could be really high for that job.
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Don't let this discourage you into selling it. It really isn't too bad replacing the dif, certainly not worth starting over with a whole new rig. You may not find another wd21 with that kind of miles any time soon.
Are we sure changing hubs will let the front spin? Assuming it's stuck in 4 because of damage to the auto hubs, another set of auto should hubs get him going.
Here are my questions. How did it drive in 2wd? Is the thing taken apart? Is it driveable? I don't think you can tell if the dif is spining without looking inside. After hearing the "front rear" thing and "it's not worth it" and not knowing how to find the gear ratio, it really sounds like these guys don't know what the hell they're doing. Most shops wouldn't assume the liability of used junkyard parts, that could be another red flag.
260 miles sounds like towing will cost a fortune. Maybe there's a member in that area that can help you get it out of there? Or a local 4x4 club? Someone from that area should be able to help you find a trustworthy mechanic or at least vouch for that shop or not.
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I wish I had you're setup to compare with mine, side by side. I have Thorelys, 2.5", magnaflow HF cat and muffler. I've always been curious how different they sound. I've tried to record the sound, but clips aren't accurate and pointless IMO. Mine does get a little loud sometimes. Maybe soundproofing is the answer. Those headers really resonate.
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I dare you to try to break a torsion bar. Not saying it doesn't happen, but not common. It's way more likely the anchor will strip first; I've stripped 3 (stock tbars), and a guy I was wheeling with this weekend just stripped one. Yeah re-indexing is just like you said, the anchor will be lower than the crossmember until you tighten it.
There have been endless debates about plugs, but I like NGK. That's what about all Jap mech's use. I can't tell a difference with the high $ ones. The plug wires are definately worth it, NGK too, 8mm.
K&N yes
0x sensor yes
Pacesettters, can't speak for them. I have Thorleys and am totally happy.
I use the K&N oil filters and Mobil 1 synth. Those filters are high quality. You should look into using a K&N hp3003, for a ford application (bigger, more capacity) but it should have the same threads.
Magnaflow is another product I use. I have their cat and muffler, sound great... Still sounds Japanese but deeper than a ricer.
If you have stock steering, skip the stabilizer.
Hubs aren't one of the first mods I'd do, Warns are the standard though.
If you're doing this to wheel, I would consider steering and a rear locker as my first mods. That will get you by more Jeeps than anything. A lift will help a lot too; bigger tires are nice.
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Get your truck out of that shop. Pay and cut your loses. You should be able shift into 2wd and drive it home assuming there was no fire damage to the electrical. Hopefully they haven't taken it apart yet. Did you drive it to the shop in 2WD? I wouldn't let those asses touch my rig. If you are able to do the work yourself a JY dif shouldn't be more than $100. If you were nearer Colorado there are guys all over with SAS that would give you one already out. Good luck.
Just my opinion, but if the roads are good enough to go 45 MPH you shouldn't need 4WD.
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Yikes. That sounds really scary. I've never heard of a differential catching on fire. Are they sure that's all that is damaged? Are any lines or wires or anything else damaged?
How fast were you going in 4wheel? Was the dif leaking? The only way it could get hot enough to burn is if the thing was bone dry. A dif wouldn't cost much from a junkyard, but unfortunately since you are stuck on the road that repair is likely gonna be spendy. Keep us posted and let us know what those guys are gonna charge you. A ruined dif is no reason to junk a 95 with 85K on it. I hope you're not at some shady shop, sucks man. I would start calling around and getting estimates to make sure they aren't gonna try and screw you.
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There's only 1 way to do a tbar lift. It's very easy; if you have a jack and stands, and a 19mm (I think) wrench and socket you can do it. You won't have to raise much if you are only barely hitting the plastic.
-Make sure it's in gear and the brake is on.
-Take a measurement from the ground, both sides. I like to use the pinch weld right by the flares.
-Get the front tires off the ground. If you don't have jack stands it can be done on the ground, but it's easier w/out weight on the front. Tightening the tbars with the front on the ground may stress the anchors on the front, but I can't confirm that.
-The adjusters are in the middle frame crossmember, look for two long bolts with 2 nuts on each. Loosen the top nuts so the lower nut can move up. The top one is a keeper nut, if you can get a wrench on both at the same time that will work too. Tighten the bolts; this twists the bar (moves the anchor up into the xmember) and puts more pressure on them, raising the front. 10 full turns should get a decent amount of lift but play around with it, maybe you'll need more or less. If you offroad make sure the anchors don't sit below the xmember, they can catch on rocks if they're down too far. Not good.
-Get it back on the ground and bounce the crap out of it to settle the suspension.
-Measure again, it should be higher in the front now but you don't want the front higher than the back. Pathys came stock with the back a little higher. Both sides should be the same, a little higher on the driver side is ok.
-Pull up on an obstacle with one wheel (flex one side) and turn the wheel completely both ways to see if anything rubs.
That should do it.
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You should have that crankshaft polished (assuming it's still within spec) and the bearings will have to match.
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Do have any b/a night pics right on the lights and of the pattern? Those look a lot better.
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Hmm I can't even think of what that is right now. I'll give it a try though, I didn't know there was anything to bleed besides the master and slave.
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Try a local Discount Tire or big shop. They usually have a black wheel for around $40.
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btw, the z31's were never offered with twin turbo's lol. they just had the vg30et.
you're right z31s are just t.What do you mean Trailchaser?
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Yeah, good luck with those POS. That is the worst tire brand around.
???
I meant 23-30K... Like I said, they have most -well over half- of the tread left and after looking at my records they are actually more like 40,000 miles old. That's when most mud tires start seeing 1/4 tread to bald. They are in fantastic shape and have been wheeled plenty and I've never lost any huge pieces. They have excellent traction in deep mud and snow, and they're stud ready. I bought them cause I was broke and they were cheap. They have now outlived a pair of BFG MTs that cost twice as much. Have you wheeled them or are you just spouting?
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Thanks for the VG forum link, looks like there's a lot of good info there. I should have checked that place out sooner.
I hear what your sayin about the NA vg30. Someday I'll work a SC into it somehow. For now I just want it as tight as possible without custom machining too much. Like what a stock Pathy should be like... 160-170HP or so will feel lovely with gears.
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Kumhos baby, less than $100/each if you look around. Mine have at least 25-30 on them and have maybe 70% left still. Throw em on some basic black steelies and you're set for $600. It's a very basic looking tire if you want it for looks though. MTs will get worse gas mileage, and actually don't handle as well on wet pavement as an AT, generally speaking. If you're not gonna wheel maybe a beefy AT would suit you better.
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I just put on the 3rd RMS in a year and a half. It's leaking AGAIN! 1st was when I transplanted motors, and 2 were in the last month starting with the tranny swap. I had great help on the last one, he's a tech at a Honda dealer. We tried a speedy sleeve on this last one and it still leaks. We sealed the entire thing up with some "honda-bond" and the housing is new, so it's probably leaking on the crank/seal. That makes sense because I dinged the back of the crank trying to remove the auto tranny pilot that came on my JDM, and it could have messed up the sealing surface I guess. Theoretically the sleeve should have fixed that but the oil in my driveway says otherwise. I'm going to pull the motor again and replace the crank and also the oil pan just to be safe.
Before anyone asks, I'm sure it's the rear main. All the gaskets were replaced May 06, rear cams last month and the rest of the motor is tight as a drum, no leaks.
Since I have to buy a crank anyway I'm looking into performance options. I was hoping to start it off with a general discussion on cranks and the VG30 since I really don't know anything about what modifying cranks entails.
I assume that changing the crank also means you'll need new bearings, rods, and pistons? Any machining necessary? Do my aftermarket cams effect the crank I should get? I was thinking about the DETT block, or is it the same block with different cranksahft/rods/pistons. I found one on craigslist: 300 short block. It's worth the price just for the crank if it will work; Nismo cams are over $700. I'm sure there are other options out there. I know a 3.3 crank can be used with a different pulley. What else is possible without machining?
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Follow up...
The 87-89 300zx tt clutch will fit a wd21, we share the same 250mm pressure plate and 1" 24 spline input. Anyone shopping for clutches should include that application, there is a ton of support for the 300s. This means more options than you will find just searching by Pathfinder. Some of the suppliers may tell you they won't work but I am using one in my truck now.
I got an ACT and it is definately a nice looking kit. It feels more grabby and takes some getting used to. I haven't taken it wheeling yet, so I can't give a good review yet.
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You do understand that these are just a cosmetic add-on right? There's no real functional aspect for them unless you count someplace to mount some off-road lights.
Huh? They can push away shopping carts all day long!
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If you're planning on lifting the body eventually, get 32s. It's much cheaper than the suspension lift. Eh, what's another hundred?
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Nice design & clean welds.
no spark distributor
in The Garage
Posted · Edited by Earth1
It seems like one of the new parts could be faulty, maybe the new ignition, or a bad connection on the old wire? I did have a new set of wires with issues once, got a different set and worked just fine. Maybe it could be the timing? Have you cleared the codes and checked them again?