Earth1

Nevermind... I've abandoned this idea in favor of a WD21 carrier. josh

Thanks anyway guys. I snuck up to one parked on my street and got the measurements I needed. It may just work. I may be putting a WD21 carrier on a 1st gen 4Runner body. I'm thinking with the carrier, new hinge pins/bushings, zerks and metal I should be able to do this for well under $100- much less than it would cost me to make a carrier arm for my bumper that I might not keep anyway. If I can make it work, I'll post up. Now to find one in decent condition for a good price... josh

Thanks... I'm looking at both. I think the r5o looks newer and I like that it maybe latches lower, but the mounts might be too close together to clear the lights on my Toyota. The wd21 carrier was my original plan, it matches the era of the truck better and is a little bigger for mounting crap to. I know mine was stout as hell too.

If anyone feels so inclined, bored or otherwise helpful, I'm thinking about using a Pathy tire carrier on another project. I need to find the measurements of: 1. hinge to hinge; bottom of top mount -to- top of bottom mount (where the tail lights are) 2. bottom of upper tube to the highest point of the latch plate 3. tube diameter 4. body corner (hinge side) to each mounting bolt on the strike plate thanks in advance!

I am looking into using a spare tire gate from an r50 for another project. I know they are not all that common, but I do have one potentially lined up. I'm not able to get the info I need right now, so I was wondering if anyone has one and is bored enough that they don't mind taking a pic/measurement? Specifically I'm looking for photos of: 1. the latch, strike/catch plate and entire mechanism (to see how it functions and where it is exactly) 2. a close up of the top of the hinge mount on the body (to see the body contour) and measurements for: 3. hinge to hinge; bottom of top mount -to- top of bottom mount (where the tail lights are) 4. bottom of upper tube to the highest point of the latch plate below the door 5. tube diameter Thanks in advance!

Nice. I just had one break off when I opened the hood with some ice on it. I was getting a new pair anyway, good o know they changed.

It's basically the same thing. Loosen the bolts all the way so the anchor is loose and twist the anchor a spline or two or three and tighten it back up.

Exhaust leak from broken manifold stud(s). There's a bunch of info about it on here somewhere.

POR-15 is the ultimate primer for preventing rust. Scrape/grind off as much rust as possible, use a phosphoric acid wash (converts rust) I use a product called "The Right Stuff" from Home Depot, then the POR-15. DON'T paint over rust... even microscopic oxidized pores will continue to rust under the paint. Tcase linkage is easy and you can find one at a junkyard, one of the boots is disposable and you may need a new one from Nissan or similar.

88 is the man. Till he gets that writeup up, here's my basic how to from another post, it may get you started or at least thinking in the right direction.

Good info here, try this: LINK I'm looking for Wd22 4.9s as well, I was told it was a straight swap like McClurgM said.

I still don't see why you can't get the stock tbars to lift. Did you take the tbar out of the anchor and move it over a couple of splines?

Glad to hear it's back in your hands. My Factory manual is pretty vague, which is really unusual. It just says to remove front shaft, loosen differential crossmember, loosen engine mounts and raise engine- it's in the way but shouldn't have to move much. It does get specific with torque specs and tightening order; you should probably get a manual. 5 bolts each on the CV's, 2 mounting the crossmember (1 for the bushing), 4 each on the motor mounts, a breather tube- I think like that's about it, maybe I'm forgetting something but it should be easy to tell what needs to come off. $175 for taking out 8 very easy to get to bolts sucks, took em like 5 minutes. I guess they were charging you for their time and keeping it at the shop. Check the hubs first, sounds like they're ok if you drove in 2WD though. Jack up the front, spin a front tire (in 2wd), if the front driveshaft mating flange on the back of the dif turns, you need new hubs cuz they're stuck. Both tires will probably turn since the dif is seized.

Ah yes. I'll look that one up and update it.

Start combing your local junkyards, I can get a front end for $65 here (you pull yards). You should be able to find one no problem. I could get you one for free here in CO, but shipping to the East coast would be cost prohibitive. Like Simon said (hehe) make sure the gears on the donor match, any year WD21 will work. Are you able to do the work yourself? If you can pull yours at home first, it will make stripping the donor easier at the yard since you'll be familiar with it. You actually won't end up spending that much if you can do it. You'll be glad you didn't abandon the pathy if you only end up spending two or three hundred.