ditchdiggerjcf
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Posts posted by ditchdiggerjcf
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now how you can you trust a guy who sent me an 18" k-brace when he specifically asked me to measure it and I told him it needed to be 22" or something.
Have fun waiting 6-12 months and constantly feeing like your being pushed aside.
And watch out for sharp edges and ****** welds when your product finally arrives.
Man, don't say stuff like that. I thought I had found me a front bumper. Are they no good?
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x2 detailed pics would be nice....like how close it tucks into the body or how far it comes out...
I really like the bumper on the hardbody in the first page. I don't want a winch bumper, but I can't find it for my year pathfinder
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if the inside of your rear wheel is wearing unevenly, i'd check my wheel bearings.
i.e. the inside has less tread than the outside
worn control arm bushings can cause uneven wear on your rear tires also
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I think every nissan with a centerlink stering can benift from a HooHaa CL. Reguardless of where or how you drive it makes things allot smoother.http://grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
What's so great about a hoohaa CL?
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I think they are used in addition to, figuring that it is really the highest solid point to tie into. The problem is that there is no frame 'near the top' and no good way to get to it.
Looking at my ARB mounted, I see how the design reduces clearance and approach angle. I think a square tubing style like GG's could be done rock solid, bolting to the frame underneath and at the stock points...
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I think you need to tie into the frame under the bumper, the frame through the holes in the bumper, and one more time from the top of the brush guard to the frame rails in the engine compartment. To accomplish this you will have to cut sheet metal.
That is why I haven't done it yet. -
Why not just go in through the openings for the stock bumper in the core support and bolt to the stock bumper locations on the frame?
I think for the brush guard to be truly effective there should be some braces near the top that go back to the frame somehow. I think the holes in the factory bumper would still be too low.
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Well, you have mixed purposes here. What will handle brush just fine won't do crap with a deer at 40mph. As a matter of fact, there isn't much available that can handle a deer 55mph, that is actually a serious impact. Search for 'roo bars', the Aussies have it down to an art and you'll see most of them look like locomotive cow catchers or the start of a Mad Max project. That's actually what is required though!!
So, with a stock bumper, you can mount a factory or aftermarket grill/light guard that will work just fine for the light duty it was intended for. Anything more serious and you are replacing the stock bumper as it is a tin foil joke to begin with...
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It doesn't have to deflect deer at 55 mph, only 25 or so would be nice. Also the big heavy duty bumpers are usually made to mount a winch and are way too freakin heavy. I could do a pre runner style grill guard out of heavy wall tubing that would work fine if I could figure out where to cut some sheet metal so I could brace it off against the frame rails under the hood.
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are these even worth getting?
I have been trying to figure out how to mount a functional desert runner style grill guard on my rig, and keep the factory front bumper. The store bought grill guards are mainly for looks IMHO. I want to build one out of heavy duty tubing that protects all the way out to the corners, that will actually deflect brush, limbs, and deer without bending. I can also use it to mount some driving lights
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not worth it, slip up and your head is done
its easier to get the turbo 300zx studs and use those
you could install headers though, they make your engine bay look nice
I went back bone stock. I'm going to save the money and find a low mileage 3.3 to swap out later when the 3.0 gets tired.
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Just not put out there as an off road vehicle. I wonder why Calmini wasted their time making a 5' lift for them when nobody really asked for it. yet, theres tons of people who want something for their R50's and they give us a blind eye!
maybe they feel the unibody chassis is not up to the stress of a lift
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If you're looking for something to tow with, go with a 2000-2004 with the 3.5L engine. Much better for that. (The 1996-1999 came with the 3.3L)
Automatic 5000 lbs
Manual 3500 lbs
Or if you can spend more, the 05+ Pathfinder has a 6000 lbs towing capacity, but they no longer offered a manual transmission in 05+
If you're looking for something thats easy to modify for the trails, stick to 95 or under, there's a lot more support for those. There's next to nothing for 96-04 pathfinders.
I drove an 05 with a six speed manual. It was at the local stealership and they wouldn't budge on price.
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try to find some 3.3 heads, the internals are the same but the casting itself is differant & after port matching the the heads you will have some heads with a more effiecient combustion chamber too. also having 10mm exhuast studs is a plus (instead of 8mm). the 3.3 head runs a smaller cam but any sohc vg30 cam will fit in its place.
Here's a list of available cams http://nissan4wheele...741#67210225741
for offroad aplication I suggest the Schnider 256/256 .420"/.420" cam. for higway use the JWT S1 260/260 .440"cam. Either one will really wake up the engine esp with a matched 3.3 head.
Don't forget:
new lifters for new cams
elongate the water passage holes in the head gasket to match the 3.3 heads to a 3.0 block
ream Manifold/ header holes to about 12-14mm (1/2")to aleiviate fitment & heat stress issues
3.3 heads may not be easy to come by. The 300z car heads I could get for almost nothing. Can I upgrade to 10mm studs on my heads while they are out?
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You can, but don't smooth them, the rough surface helps cause turbulence the air/fuel need to mix (at least this is what I read once from someone who had fully polished theirs). But opening up the intake and exhaust where they meet the manifolds isn't a bad idea.
so, gasket matching the ports is about all I can do? I guess I'll add headers while I am this far into it. What brand is best. I have heard some brands won't work with my manual tranny.
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I don't own an X but there are LOTS of guys wheeling with them quite successfully. They have a 3.3L engine so I can't see them being that much different for towing capacity than a WD21 or what am I missing there? It may depend on what you are towing, as with most vehicles, a manual transmission derates the towing capacity. They also have a super charger option if you wanted more power.
the xterra with a 3.3 should actually pull better than a 3.0 pathfinder. My pathfinder is a manual, that is why I don't want to give it up.
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There are various ways to change the output on an engine, different pistons, different stroke (longer/shorter rods), cams, timing, etc.
That said, I don't know what differences they made, but the early 300zx has the exact same block and head asour truck's engines. I do know that some VG30s had a different crank, but I think the only difference was how far it stuck out the front of the engine block. I have a whole book for hopping up L series Nissan engines, wish I had the same for the VG series.
What about some port work then? Any help there? Gotta be something to do while I have the heads off.
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you can use the heads but i don't know if that will give you any power difference at all
so back to square one. How do they get the extra power out of the vg30 in the 300z?
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judging by the traffic in this forum I assume the 05 and up pathfinders are not big sellers
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if you are talking about the same VG30E engine as used in the sports car then yes
So if I bent a valve or two in my heads and am going to be building a set of heads, can I build a set off of the 300z to get more power for my pathfinder?
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extra power could come from a different timing setting and higher octane gas
so we can all get the same power as a z car by adjusting our timing?
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i think they are the same cam
Are you pretty sure about that? Where do they get the extra power for the 300zx engines?
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Jim Wolf has cams, another source I can't think of right now, and I believe a couple of people have taken the stock cams in to be reground at custom shops...
I don't know about the 300zx cams...
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I wonder how I could find out about the 300zx cams. I can get them for almost nothing.
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Mitsubishi Pajero wheels
Those isuzu rims look pretty freakin sweet
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Damn!! If you didn't crank it much, there is a chance not much damage occurred. Maybe the belt jumped a few teeth?
Unless you are positive things are mangled you might want to replace the belt then try to fire it up/do a compression check first, it's not much wasted work if you have to pull the heads and you might get lucky...
Good luck!!
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Yes, cams are available but can be a problem if the vehicle needs smog testing so stay with a very mild one if that is the case.
no smog tests in Arkansas.
What about the cams from a 300zx? Are they a little hotter than the pathfinder cams? -
I dono why, but I think that statment is firigin hilarious. I mean it would suck and its true but... its kinda funny too.
well, it looks like I broke mine yesterday when I tried to start the engine. I mean literally right as I turned the key
Are there any performance mods that can be done while the heads are off? Whay about aftermarket cams?
I'm so pissed
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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My truck had developed another exhaust leak around the manifolds. My mechanic just got through rebuilding my heads, and now this. I hope he can get it right this time.