ditchdiggerjcf
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Posts posted by ditchdiggerjcf
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I guess you weren't paying attention then.
It has been said that you basically don't know @!*% about @!*% from several members here.
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Oh, and the dyno showed more power. More and consistent power too with the plenum spacer.
Where did u get a plenum spacer for a vg30? I tow the bass boat with mine and could use a little more umphh. lol
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Messing with the cam timing in a factory setup is not recommended.
High lift cams cause parasitic drag because the engine has to work harder to push the valves open.
I guess someone forgot to inform those NASCAR and NHRA guys.Think of all that power they have missed out on.
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Not that I have heard of, but I know a few people have brought it up as something they would like to do.
B
Lots of yota and jeep guys on this.I guess the nissan guys are content with their gas burners. lol
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Anybody know of a pathfinder with this engine installed? Lots of rigs out there with this swap, but not one pathfinder that I have found.
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How about the pre v-tec honda v6 engines.
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one hundred ninety-nine...
Life is too short to go through it being a dick. FYI
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Left side:
http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7500
Right side:
http://c2cfabrication.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=41&products_id=7501
The stickers on them show they were made in canada.
For you canadians, they are on this page too:
http://ecat.crosscanadaparts.com/base/welcome.php?year=1995&make=NISSAN&model=PATHFINDER
Awesome. I need those.
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Thanks for the education guys. I guess I really didn't know anything about car audio. I now wonder what I've really done by modifying the audio system that was in the truck when I bought it. There were 2 speakers in the front doors, 2 in the back panels, 4 tweeters and a sub. I just removed the tweeters and sub and got the other 4 speakers working properly (some stuff had come disconnected). But maybe the reason it sounds bad now is that I have only half a component system or something. Probably worth investigating.
I'm assuming though, that there is an even lower tech version of all this, where you just have a speaker set with one element per speaker that is designed to produce the whole frequency range (albeit poorly). So I guess you need to be able to distinguish between that and the low frequency part of a component system.
I was getting hung up on the terminology before. To me, coaxial and component are two types of cables.
Polk audio is the only way to fly.
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I have narrowed down my choices for the rims im going to buy. Anything i should look out for any rims i picked not going to work? Any info and help would be great thanks.
I tried to make the pic as clear as possible. sorry about bad quality.
No aluminum. I'd keep the stockers if those were my choices.
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Just wondering. I was hoping I'd get better than my previous vehicle, but it ain't lookin' good.
What mpg do you get a/ around town b/ on the highway. Also, what's your highest comfortable freeway cruising speed?
What do you do to help your mpg on trips? The SE's big tires and lower overall gear ratio sure don't help!
thanks
Shaggy
Mine averages around 18. It has gotten 23 mpg on trips driving on the interstate at around 65 mph.
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Also on a side note Ruggedrocksoffroad.com seems to be the fastest place to order them from for me at least might depend on where you live though.
I never found any of that when I looked. All the parts stores I checked(NAPA, O'reilly, bumper to bumper) offered no poly for my year model. My local off road shop told me that they were no longer available from ES.
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Just my personal opinion. I'd get rid of the grill guard, make 100 bucks from selling it, and rock the twin tow hooks! The brush guard is useless since it's only mounted from the bottom. get a fat guy leanin on it, and it'll get bent, and it'll only amplify the damage to your truck when/if you rear end someone.
I agree. The factory grill guards are kinda cheesy. They look nice though.
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I'm not sold on Poly stuff. Anything poly on my truck seems to wear out FAR faster than it's OEM, rubber counterparts. Yes, poly is stiffer, yes it's more readily available (aftermarket), but I don't think it's as durable as rubber.
I searched high and low recently for poly bushings, and had no luck at all. Where are you guys finding this stuff. Energy suspension doesn't show it anywhere I could find.
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If a better crawl ratio is wanted it would be time and money head too re-gear the t-case.
It's not the crawl speed for sure, secong gear starts are the norm as is. I tow alot and my 5 speed has some issues and a 6 speed is easier to find in the salvage yards.
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Adapters would push the trans back... or push the engine forward. Assuming the adaptor's not a mile thick, you'd just have the motor mounts to mod (probably a fair amount of work, but at least you wouldn't be doing it while lying underneath). You have to pull the engine either way, right? I'm sure the engine bay has a spare half inch up front.
Wow. No way in hell I'm pulling the motor to replace the tranny. lol
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I wish it was a bolt on swap tho. Maybe some sort of bell housing adapter can be made...
I wish they were the same. Adapters would push the tranny back, which means new driveshafts front and rear, and extensive crossmember fab work. Sounds like it would be way too much of a PITA
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Anybody know if I can replace my 5 spd tranny with a late model 6 spd in a 91 model pathfinder? Mainly concerned with bellhousing bolt patterns and the transfer case bolting up.
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Thorleys and a 2.5" midpipe here, all in 304 stainless steel. I home made my entire exhaust system except for the headers. It's still a work in progress but will be finished soon.
anybody have problems with the header gaskets? I've heard horror stories and it is making me think twice about headers.
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What size are the exhaust studs on my 91 3.0 engine. A thread from a while back talked about buying new studs or bolts from NAPA to replace the factory studs. Is the NAPA stuff any better?
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ok cool thanks i fornt one for 450 shiped to ny door on ebay but if anyone has one let me know thanx again tj
You can still buy brand new trannies from nissan that come with warranty for about 1200 bucks
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I just paid 125 for 4 31/10.5/15 BFG's that still like 10-15 K worth of life left, does anyone think they will rub on a stock LEVEL pathy?
31's were OE on my SE
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My flanges on my exhaust have rusted out a good amount and I was getting a bad exhaust leak. I took it to Monro to get an estimate to fix it thinking they could probably just put a bead of weld to close it up. Mind you, this is a 1993 WD21 from the Northeast and it has been killed by the years of snow and salt. So they quoted me $1100 for some new exhaust pipe and an O2 sensor since he "believed" that the one on there would be too difficult to take off. I didnt want to spend that much on the truck since that would probably be more than the actual value of the truck itself. So I went to Autozone and bought some exhaust liquid putty that hardens into metal and filled all the gaps on the flange. The end result is no exhaust leak at all and I only spent $6.00. I also had a huge hole in the floor underneath the carpeting where the rust ate it and I fixed that with a sheet of aluminum from Home Depot, some cherry rivets and a tube of silicone adhesive/gasket. That cost me around $30.00. So now the Pathy is somewhat back to where it was before. And it didnt cost me an arm and a leg. Just thought I would rant and give you guys something to read.
that repair should last a lifetime
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Looks like you would be best to completely replace the rear of the frame. The roll pans can be replaced completely with new pieces, or cut and patched in. I had to rebuilt one of mine by the back door, wasn't to difficult.
What are you calling the roll pan? Are you referring to the rocker panels? If so, I didn't know they were available. Where did you find them? I am thinking about doing my own out of treadplate.
Pathy or Pathfinder?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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The term "pathy" sounds completely gay!!!!!