robinasu

Any major modes needed besides the adaptor? Of course there is a lot to do but I mean like cutting/shoe horning things in?

I saw in the firewall the location for the clutch cylinder (I think). Anybody know if this is do-able? Just power down the A/T control unit??

Where do you get the filter relocation kit? I hate the stock location.

Thx for the help. so even the lower A arm bushing requires the knucke to come off, darn. so the A-arm won't drop straight down after you disconnect the T-rod and take out the lower A-arm bolt? What ball joints do you use? I want some that have the zerks already installed. Any suggestions?

I wonder if a loose idler arm might be the cause? I know it is a bit loose.

Wheel works maxed the castor way back on the passenger side and the beast still pulls to the right hard. Anybody experience this? My compression bushings are toasted so I am going to replace all the bushings up front.. With with the castor on the passenger side all the way back and still pulling to the right.. doesn't this suggest the passenger side wheel is ahead of the driver side wheel? If so, strange. Camber and toe are right on and the T-bars are adjusted to stock specs. I took it to wheel works 4 times and they are clowns. They said something was bent.. Vehicle's alignment was perfect before I took it there.. now it SUCKS. So, either they are clowns or they hit a curb big time. Any suggestions? Would the compression bushings make a big difference if they are old? Any tips for the bushing swaps?

Check the rubber gasket on the radiator cap.. I had a small crack one time that was leaking under high pressure from a hill etc, etc.. by the way my cap was stock.. lasted till 280k

My pathy has 280k and never needed bushings, till now. I bought some energy poly bushings for the upper/lower control arm and the compression rods. In general what are the good brands? What are the best ball joints? Can the ball joints be changed without taking apart the from hubs? It looks do-able.

How DO you get it out? It really is down in there? Any special tools that will work and clear the pins for the harness? Mine is fried and I am using the old resistor in the harness trick right now...

I get a real hard 1-2 shift. 2-3 shift seems to clutch. I don't know much about A/T's. Any ideas? Auto trans. control unit diag. doesn't report anything and all inputs check out as well. Adjusting throttle position switch also did not help.

SO I get this vibration in 4WD around 40-45mph. To tell you the truth I don't know when it started or if it started after a brake job. I am thinking the CV's were not put back in the factory orientation or the axial play is too high from worn/bent lock rings. Anybody experience this? Are the CV's marked from the factory for spline alignment?

Put the ECU into mixture ratio feedback mode if you have not already. You should see that the ECU is switching to closed loop operation based on the simultaneous flashing of the red and green lights. I had a smog problem caused by the ECU not getting into closed loop operation because of my cyl. head temp sensor was fried. The mixture is controled by several inputs. Check the factory manual for the inputs. I forget off hand. btw I have an intermittant crank angle fault code as well, doesn't seem to affect too much, but maybe I am just used to the crap mileage. Check to see that the crack sensor harness is not right on top of the plug wires.

Hi Brian, I saw cats online for 80 bucks, I would change that out if my ideas below don't work. I didn't pass CA smog the first time as well. I found that the cylinder head temp. sensor was fried and giving bogus feedback to ECU based on ECU fault code and measurement with a multimeter. Look for fault codes on the ECU. I just ripped off the plastic cover from the ECU under the seat. Flip the switch from normal position till the lights flash 3 times together, then flip back to normal position. If all is well you will get 5 red then 5 green flashes. If you get any other combination there could be a problem. I think the temp. sensor was 1 red 1 green, but forgot at this point. Based on the factory manual, the inputs for mixture control include the cylinder head temp. sensor.. I found that when the temp. sensor was malfunctioning the ECU never would get into closed loop mode (i.e. never used the o2 sensor to control mixture) proved by putting the ECU into mixture ratio diag. mode. The temp. senor I am talking about is buried under the distributor, not the coolent temp. sensor on top of intake. It is a MF bastard to get to. I am talking about the V6 here as well, but the 4 cylinder works on the same concept. Invest in the factory manual if you have not already. Don't mean to preach if you know this already. Long story short is I disconected the temp. harness and put in a $1 300 ohm resistor and the sucker passed the 2nd smog try.. it was close though. I have the auto and I made the guy keep the tranny in power mode to keep the revs up. I am confident that a new cat would have helped the old beast easily. Bottom line is mixture control is key, make sure all inputs are working correctly. Maybe check the EGR solenoid, too. I think the main component of failure is ECU malfunction due to bad inputs. Hope this helps.