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Maintenance is always a good idea. I did the transmission and transfer case fluids when I got mine (at similar mileage), and the junk that came out of the auto trans made me glad I did. If yours is manual, make sure you use GL-4 fluid, the more common GL-5 eats the synchros. I added a cooler and an external filter to the trans cooler plumbing while I was in there. If you replace the diff oil, and you've got the limited slip in the back, make sure you've got the limited slip additive to keep that alive. Power steering and brake fluid are usually neglected and nasty. Check the brakes. Have a look at the brake hoses, too, they may be in rough shape if they're original. Check that the front wheel bearings are tight, and the boots on the CVs and rack aren't blown out. Look for any obviously loose suspension/steering joints. Shoot some grease at any zerk fittings you find. Check for rust in the strut towers and fuel filler neck, or anywhere else you find it. Check the drive belts. Check the cooling system. If you don't know when the timing belt was done last, or it's been over 100k, do the timing belt. These are interference, so you don't want that to let go while the engine is running. While you're in there, do the idler, bypass hose, water pump, thermostat, and the cam/crank seals. There are instructions in the service manual, and in 5523's writeup, which has a less fussy way of setting the belt tension. Manual hubs should get you some mileage. Having it tuned up and running right will help too (plugs/wires/cap/rotor, air and fuel filters, maybe check the timing while you're in there). Make sure the MAF is good and clean, the vacuum lines are intact (including the one to the fuel pressure regulator at the back), the throttle body is reasonably clean, and the tube between the MAF and the throttle body isn't split. If you've got any OBDII codes, chase those down.