Blackfuse Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 (edited) So, today I was doing nothing at home and drove to my friend's shop. While he was cleaning the shop I decided to change my rear shocks. While doing this I started playing with the chassis and there you go... I started making holes in it... We all know that chassis rust is one of the biggest Pathfinder problems.... unless you live in a really dry environment. Well mine is one of those with rust problems after been 10 years in the salty roads of CT. One side was mint, I just grind the rust out and painted with a rubber coating (see last picture), however, the other side needed a lot of work. My welding sucks, so I apologies in advance for the ugly seams. Note: this process won't actually fix your rust problems since rust is also inside the chassis, and can't all be removed, but it will elongate the live of the chassis. You could do this all around the frame, but there are other ways, and other better fixed... Tools: -Grinder -Abrasive Wheel to cut metal -Welding Machine (I used a Mig) -Vise-Grips -Patience and a welding course... lots of it LOL! Hardware: -L shape steel, approximately 1/4 thick (You can get it at Home Depot hardware section) -Rubber Paint sealer, or similar paint with catalyst Process: -First find the rust: usually the original coating will be hiding the metals cancer. So, if you can pull the coating with you fingers most likely is rust under and inside the frame. Select the are you like to work on. Don't try to do it all at once. -Grind all those rust are the best you can. Some time the material wall thickness is too thin and you may start a hole. -Using the grinder with the cutting wheel cut the rust out. Basically make the hole big until you get enough material thickness. Having enough thickness is the key to be able to well new material and re-enforce the chassis. Otherwise, you be welding the rusted material and will be making holes in the metal left and right. Try to make them as square as possible, so you can fit the L shape steel inside the frame. - Cut a few L shape steel 1 inch longer than the hole. Make sure you can fit 2 pieces in each square hole. - Weld the steel pieces around the edges of the square holes. Sorry but my welds are piece of crap. Tips Try to have small gaps between the L shape steel and the edge of the hole. This helps during welding. If you can't hold both pieces together... because they are both inside the frame... consider welding a piece of metal in the center of the one of the L Shape steels to hold it in place until you weld around the edges. -After welding all pieces clean the surface and paint with the rubberized paint or any other of your preference. -You also do the following optional steps: Grind down a little bit all welds and patch with another piece of metal and re-paint... for better appearance only. - Here is the Drivers side... looks mint. Enjoy your re-enforced frame. Edited May 9, 2010 by Blackfuse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahardb0dy Posted May 9, 2010 Share Posted May 9, 2010 looks good, you may have wanted to grind the welds down that way you can make sure you got good penetration Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackfuse Posted May 9, 2010 Author Share Posted May 9, 2010 looks good, you may have wanted to grind the welds down that way you can make sure you got good penetration Thanks.... I still said look like crap, but still is better than rusty holes. Yeah, I heated the thickest material first and then ran the molten metal to the frame. The biggest problem was the gap between one to another, and the thin thickness of the frame. It was very thin in some areas, but I got most of it with good thick sections. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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