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20angier

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Posts posted by 20angier

  1. 9 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

    It’s been a consensus on NPORA for some time now that you should probably get the OEM strut mount. There have been some failures of other brands & the importance of the part & difficulty switching it out warrant spending just a but extra for OEM on that part.

     

    My OEM parts list:

    Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2

    Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2

    Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2

    Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2

    infinitipartsdeal.com

     

     

    thanks will look there. makes sense that oem is better. For the shocks, I found ones with a 12mm mount, i know r50s come with a 12mm many. Many use the 5100 with a 16mm mount and use spacers & washers to make it fit. Do you think the one i found will work?

  2. 14 minutes ago, colinnwn said:

    If the power valves weren't loctited in during the rebuild, eventuality they will fall out, suck into a cylinder, bang around for a while before they are ejected.

    The end result is damage to the cylinder wall and valves which will cause oil consumption, low cylinder pressure, and inability to pass emissions. You'll get to have another rebuild.

    This is a famous problem for these engines and should have been addressed by a competent rebuilder.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     

    i'll check my log book about to confirm if this was done. 

  3. 27 minutes ago, RainGoat said:

    That list looks right so far. Ditto on the OEM strut mount. Bilstein good choice. My list:

    OEM Replacement Parts

    Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2

    Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2

    Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2

     

    If you’re not a manual, you should get the power valves done as well.

    http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17104-threadlocker-on-power-valve-screws-pics/page-1

     

     

    I added the bearing, seat, stop to the list all from rockauto. 

     

    My mine is at 137xxx, but it was "rebuilt" at around 100,xxx with new parts for an upfresh. I should be fine without redoing the power valves. What is the risk if I do not get them done?

     I updated the list with different type of 5100 shock, and coils

    Thanks for the help. 

  4. 2 minutes ago, colinnwn said:

    Rancho 5000 sounds right. They were advertised as fitting the Pathfinder by Automotive Customizers, but they definitely didn't without some modification on my part. They also seemed cheaply made. But I can't argue that they didn't last good.

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     

    the bilsteins supposedly need some adjusting to be fit, but they are good quality 

    • Like 1
  5. 7 minutes ago, colinnwn said:

    When I did my lift back around 2008 I reused my shock mount bolts.

    Some people need a camber kit for the front struts, which are basically eccentric lobe bolts for mounting to the knuckle.

    I'd also suggest replacing the strut top mounts with new OEM mounts, if you are paying for this to be done. When they wear out they clank. If you do the work yourself and don't mind redoing you could roll the dice.

    I bought my 01 in about 06 with 136k miles. I did my lift myself probably at 150k in 08. The only things I didn't do were assembling the spring on the strut (it was much too stiff) and the alignment. I drove it to 265k before it died. I never had to replace my strut top mount. But unless it was done by the previous owner, this is unusual service life.


    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
     

    added the camber kit o nthe list. forgot it. 

    When you reused the bolts, what shocks did you use?

  6. Hey all, I've got  a 2001 Pathy SE (RWD). I will do a 2in lift. The one plus to rwd is that i dont have to mess with cv joints. I have been talking with pathydude17 about my build list below.

     

     

    The shocks have 26'' of extended travel, doing this so I dont have to extend my brake lines. If you want a longer shock (29) here are the links: 

    (BRAKE LINE) https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-18J1473-Professional-Hydraulic-Assembly/dp/B000C9G0O4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=2000+frontier+rear+brake+line&qid=1577944626&replacementKeywords=rear+brake+line&sr=8-1&vehicle=2000-67-883------------&vehicleName=2000+Nissan+Frontier&linkCode=sl1&tag=tylersmith0a-20&linkId=9c53e63130f80bea521fddc0a2666067&language=en_US

    (LONGER 5100 shock) https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FU6I6G?pf_rd_r=ZDSDNW52N6KC2VBQZWJV&pf_rd_p=edaba0ee-c2fe-4124-9f5d-b31d6b1bfbee

     

    GOOGLE DOCS with the links: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1EW3HZ7SSGSIaT4RBRRrkRrceZTYH2maWGEopqBGLRN0/edit?usp=sharing

     

    My current issue is that I do not know what the exact bolts& parts are needed for the rear shocks. If anyone has the exact mounting part specs, that would be a great help.

     

    Besides these, I am not sure what else I need for the lift, please let me know what else is needed.

     

     

    I plan to slowly start doing the upgrades over the end of the year to next year. Im first gonna change the brakes & radiator hoses. 

    FYI the pathy has been in my family since new. Rust free and it just hit a trail for the first time over the weekend. It has 137,xxx miles and it runs smooth except it tends to get hot with elevation. 

     

    Check out my ig: @irvine.r50  for build updates & trail stuff

  7. 7 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:

    I went with an electric fan from an old Volvo 950 and it works exceptionally well.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    Did the fan mount well or did you have to fab some mounts?

  8. 3 hours ago, onespiritbrain said:

    I had a RWD Frontier when I was a teenager and it seemed to go anywhere and very rarely ever got stuck.

    I never use 4WD on fire roads. Honestly the only time I use 4WD is when I’m going places my vehicle has no businesses being.

    I will say that without lower gearing you can run into overheating issues in the summer. My first engine didn’t have a blown HG and I did see temps go above normal when going slow on trails in the summer. A quick neutral engine rev would shoot the temp back down.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    My pathy does overheat when climbing really steep hills, so a radiator upgrade may foresee the future.

  9. 19 minutes ago, mjotrainbrain said:

    Huh, I've never heard of a master cylinder upgrade on an R50. Would a combination of this and @hawairish's disk brake swap yield some great results for those with big tires and/or towing? ?

    I wonder..based on his profile pic it looks like his pathy is lifted and on bigger tires - My pathy has a/t but nothing else, it pretty much stock, so i will probably just go OEM or something to that regards

  10. 18 hours ago, johann_peralta said:

    My bad, I though I did.

    Its a second gen dodge ram master. From what I've read, the 1500/2500/3500 used the same one, regardless or gas or diesel. Its a 1.25 bore, m10x1 and m12x1 fittings. The 3.5 used a different master than the 3.3, but with carefully manipulating of the hard lines, i've gotten a 3.5 master to fit a 3.3. So I'd imagine you can make the 3.5 lines fit the dodge master also. The Nissan is a 1" bore, and both ports are m10x1. So the front port on the dodge will need an adapter. Hood doesn't close all the way unless you remove some of the lining on inside; the dodge master sits higher up. Could put washers between the hood and the hood brackets also. 

     

    Here is the master: https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/HC/1968-09047407.html?utm_content=HC&utm_term=1998-2001+Dodge+Ram+1500+Brake+Master+Cylinder+Dorman+M390426+98-01+Dodge+Brake+Master+Cylinder+1999&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=Cj0KEQiAlsrFBRCAxcCB54XElLEBEiQA_ei0DEz_UIhNV5Me8XA2-z1XdRI_F6LXFLpE-vEqNb3iTG4aAoZ18P8HAQ&ad=47433965532

     

    Here is the adapter I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-Fitting-Reducer-Metric-M12-M12X1-Male-to-M10-M10X1-Female-Thread-Adapter-A268/401543647947?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

    Why did you choose to use a dodge master.. was it because you wanted more fluid?

     

    Here are two cylinders I found on rock auto ~

     

     

     

     

  11. 23 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

    You can say the same when putting HID into a halogen light. Not a proper housing and performance will suffer. The new gen of LED headlights do work well. Also the auto manufacturers have gone away from HID in favor of LED for the headlights. 

    One thing that kept me from trying HID in my Pathfinder was I would have to give up the high beams and that was not acceptable for me because until last year, my truck had to pass an annual safety inspection to be licenced for operation on public roads. High/low beams were a requirement. 

     

    A friend of mine who went LED in his Tacoma a few years ago said they were better than the HID's he had in it before, until the first big snowstorm, then he found that his headlights were too cold and wouldn't melt the snow build up on the lights. Me, my lights don't seem to ice up. 

    Where I am, I dont have to worry about snow buildup on my lights and such. I was also thinking of putting strong fog lights and installing a switch for extra light.

    • Like 1
  12. On 10/18/2019 at 10:14 AM, scottxemry said:

    looks great guy! im a metal fab guy myself and if yall need any help hit me up... otherwise im down to buy some products as they are available. im working on a front bumper design that would incorporate a receiver, flush mount leds and ditch lights as well. I had back surgery less than a month ago so its put a halt on all my projects but hopefully I can get some CAD work done while im laid up. 

     

    Hope you back recovers smoothly. Also I am wanting to install some ditch lights but, there are no mounts for sale. I saw that there are ham radio antenna mounts that work, but I wanted to know if you have worked up a design for one? I saw this on another forum, of a mount some made.

    LKnrG5Ql.jpg

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