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Dieselboy

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About Dieselboy

  • Rank
    NPORA Regular
  • Birthday 03/27/1976

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  • Website URL
    http://academic.macewan.ca/furzem/

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1992 Nissan Terrano R3m WBYD21 2.7 litre diesel. Currently stock, but not for long :)
  • Place of Residence
    Carvel, Alberta
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    30-35
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
  • Model
    Terrano R3m
  • Year
    1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Carvel, near Edmonton, Alberta
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. May be, but this Terrano is new to me, and I haven't spilled anything yet, apart from some blood (don't ask!) and some oil getting the oil filter out. Even more of a PITA on this diesel than the VG30E! Anyway, I'll have a poke around tomorrow. Gauge seemed to be running a little bit easier today, though still binding in places. Got a suspicion that it may be the speedo gauge needle itself that's got a bit of a down-curve to it and is rubbing on the face plate. Seen a couple of old posts mention that as a problem. Seems the truck was used/kept in a pretty hot climate back in Japan before I imported by some of the UV effects on the interior plastic. May be the needle "melted"?
  2. I was going to title this post "Sticky Speedo" but that just generates a bunch of mental images I really don't want to live with, lol! So . . . My speedo gauge is sticking. Spool the engine up to around 120 km/h and the gauge may sit at around 105 and then leap to 120 km/h as if I've got a jet afterburner strapped to the roof! Deceleration is the same issue. I was doing around 60 km/h and it told me I was doing 95 km/h. Stopped in traffic I was apparently still doing 20 km/h. Its very slow to respond and seems to get hung up and then release. I think its a mechanical issue with the speedo gauge because a firm smack on the dashboard above the instrument cluster get's the needle to move, though it takes about 4 or 5 smacks to get the needle down from 20 to 0 when I'm stationary. And I can't be driving around accelerating and decelerating and constantly pounding the dashboard! People would think I'm nuts, plus its kinda inconvenient and dangerous! Anyone experienced the sticking speedometer issue before, and have any solutions? Haven't pulled the instrument cluster yet to have a look but thought I'd ask here first. Does the gauge need lubricating - light watch oil or something? Silicone? How would you go about this?
  3. I hate retarded moths! Painting some louvers to go in my hood and the dang things like the paint!

    1. Reshma

      Reshma

      I read this like 10 times last night and i was so sleepy. the whole time im like "wtf?" now i read it again and im like "ohhhh, lol, u mad bro?"

    2. clkindred

      clkindred

      A can of starting fluid and a lighter, moths also like fireballs...

  4. OK, to resuscitate this old thread . . . I actually did fix my lazy non-retracting seatbelts without taking it to a dealership. Primarily because its a 1992 JDM import Terrano so wouldn't be covered under warranty in North America anyway, and besides, if you can fix it your self . . . So, after completely removing the whole right-hand-side (that's driver's side on a Japanese vehicle) seatbelt assembly, I first cleaned up the slot in the upper hanger with some ultra-fine grit sandpaper. Lubed that with a light spray of silicone lube. Did the same for the main slot on the winding mechanism and the little plastic guide clip that the seatbelt threads through halfway down and hidden behind the panel I had to remove to get the assembly out. Next I lubricated the spring. The winding assembly has two plastic covers on either end, both marked "do not remove". One is the locking mechanism, and the other with the little dust cover contains the winding spring. After prying off the dust cover with a knife, the central part of the spring was exposed with no risk of it uncoiling or popping out. I gave this a healthy dose of silicone lube as well and replaced the dust cap, then pulled out the belt and let it retract a few times. Hard to do with the belt assembly removed as it keeps locking. The next stage was the most fiddly but resulted in the best fix. As the spring still seemed rather "lazy" I chose to give it a few more windings. Holding the winding assembly perfectly upright so that the belt would not lock, I unspooled all the belt to expose the spindle in the middle. The end of the belt is a loop threaded through a slot in the spindle and held in place by a plastic bar through the loop. While holding the spindle to stop it rotating under force from the spring, I pushed the belt forward out of the slot with a flat-head screwdriver and pulled the plastic retaining bar out of the loop. I then pulled the belt back out of the spindle entirely. Obviously its important to not let go of the spindle at this stage!! I then gave the spindle 4 more extra rotations in the direction of unwinding the belt to add a bit more tension to the tired 20 year old spring. Then re-threaded the belt loop through the slot and reinstalled the retainer bar, tugged the belt tight in the slot - and let go. And she rolled right up no problem! After reinstalling the whole assembly, the seatbelt works great now. Not exactly like new, but it retracts speedily enough and doesn't get caught in the door. May give the spring a couple more turns next time I'm removing plastic panels from around there, just to give it a bit more zip. But it certainly works!
  5. This weekend worked on my Terrano . . . Removed old Japanese GPS system and a mile of associated cable and under-driver's-seat control unit Re-installed factory dash-mount clinometer unit that had been rem,oved by previous owner for sketchy-mount GPS Removed broken plastic window deflectors and spent ages trying to get rid of the dried nasty 3M tape Swapped RHD headlights to LHD units Added Pathfinder-spec headlight plugs (the Terrano uses HB-style plugs for Pathfinder-shaped headlights) POR-15 behind headlights where rad overflow had eaten the paint Extended rad overflow pipe Spliced in Day Running Light module Swapped corner/park lights for ones with amber reflectors Installed new upper and lower ball joints, left and right Installed new outer tie-rod ends Installed Warn manual locking hubs Installed new brake pads front and back Installed Autometer voltage gauge Collapsed into bed on Sunday evening absolutely knackered.
  6. Just a note about busted plastic clips . . . Learned from bitter experience that its better to try and unclip them after the car has sat for a day in a heated garage than to do it outside in -15C, lol!
  7. The main reason for swapping is to be able to install an air locker in the front and re-gear to 5.142. Now, as far as I have found out so far, there is no ARB air locker available for the R180 diff. Not sure about a 5.142 ring and pinion set. So if anyone here can tell me (truthfully, lol) that an air locker for an R200 will fit with no problems in an R180 and that there are 5.142 gear sets available - well, I'll not need to swap!!! I'd rather not as I've got better things to do with my time! As for drop down bushings, I got a set that'll go on what ever front diff when the SL goes in. A PITA to do from what I've read, but hey, if it adds life to my CV axles, probably worth it in my book.
  8. Yup, that looks spot on. They're split bushings anyway, to on each sleeve. So yes, two large ones on Nos. 3 & 4. My kit came with the two bushings assembled on the sleeves already. Made figuring it out a bit easier. Sleeves 1, 3, & 4 should be the longer ones, No.2 the short one.
  9. I've got this mod planned when I put in my suspension lift and (hopefully) swap my R180 diff over for an R200. Hopefully this pic from the FSM may help, uploaded to my sendspace.com site: 12 PD Propeller Shaft & Differential Carrier 16.pdf Looks like the two big bushings are on the rear of the unit and the two smaller notched ones on the front. The shorter sleeve is probably at the bottom right of the schematic.

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