CaughtLikeFire

I can say from experience that the OME coils do not have the rubber/plastic isolator on the coils. I'm 99% sure that the AC coils don't either. With the OME coils, the Nissan isolators will fit. I purchased new ones for the front coils since I wanted to assemble a 100% brand new unit off the truck and just swap strut assemblies. I probably could have purchased new ones for the rear coils since they're cheap too, but I just reused them. if you don't use an isolator/sleeve on the bottom coil, you might get some additional noise but it's not a crucial part. Given the cheap price of the isolators if you order online, I'd just get 4 new ones. if you're on a really tight budget, reuse the old ones. mine had 114k on them and were in great condition - they don't really wear out and mine stayed very pliable (no dry rot).

I know that the drivetrain is a little different on the WD Pathfinders, but my '93 SE would not go into 4 Lo - I physically could not get the lever to go all the way back. I'd get a little grind usually too. Turned out the problem was just some rusty shift lever linkage from all the salt on Pennsylvania roads. Cleaned and lubed it and it shifted perfectly. It just might be that simple. I think a damaged transfer case is unlikely on a 2001, given #1 the build quality and #2 the fact that so many R50s were used as grocery getters and were almost never run in 4WD.

I have OME HD front and Medium rear on my 2001 SE manual. It sits level (see this thread for OME pics: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24630&st=20). over time, the front end will sag just a little, but you should not get an extreme rake with the tail in the air.

do you really have that much rake? did your front end settle significantly or did the steel bumper bring the front end down some? I'm pretty much dead even front and rear lift but I have less than 1k miles on my suspension. from that angle it looks pretty darn good - they wouldn't work well for me but I like the look of 265/75 on an R50.

I replaced the factory mirror on my 2001 and it was the same part number as a '97 mirror I found at a parts yard. even though Nissan changed the center console trim in 2001 (black plastic instead of dark gray) the overhead console did not change - it's still gray for 2001. 98ChilkootTrail, sounds like you have the optional auto-dim mirror with compass and/or temp that mounts to the glass. In the US I think it was a dealer-installed option only but maybe some of the Canadian vehicles had it from the factory. post a picture of your overhead console and I should be able to tell you if it will fit - I'm thinking you might just have a plastic trim piece that pops in to cover the hole for the mirror mounting bracket.

Mobil 1 is a great all-purpose grease - it would be just fine for a drive shaft. I use either Amsoil Multi-purpose NLGI 2 or Mobil 1. the difference in synthetic vs. standard grease is pretty much the same as syn vs. regular motor oil . the syn grease should provide a little more protection from wear (reduced friction) and more resistance to heat but I wouldn't say that it's as crucial on a driveshaft, hub, or wheel bearing as it is inside a modern gas engine.

I'm not surprised that your engine was fine with a change to synthetic at 44k - I've changed to synthetic in some vehicles at 120k (miles) and they've been just fine. with a good synthetic oil, you should change the oil and filter at 5-7k (miles). If you're only driving 10 miles per day, you won't have to change your oil often at all. there's no way you need to spend $100 every 3 months.

nice lookin' Chevy I forgot that I did take one pic of my '01 right after the tire install. OME HD front, Medium rear, 245/75/16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s. ignore the mismatched paint . . . the Pathy doesn't look lifted, but it looks "right" to me. I want my SUV to be an actual "utility" vehicle, not a station wagon. the 75 profile fills out the wheel wells a little more and gives the wheel the right proportions to match the body of the vehicle.

it hasn't happened with my Pathfinder but with other vehicles - if the brake fluid is a touch low, the brake light comes on when the car is cold (1st thing in the morning). brake performance is not affected. if you're concerned about your parking brake being too loose, follow the procedure here: http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=460197&postid=5191362

Chevy wheels are usually hub centric instead of lug centric like the Pathfinder. For any wheel, make sure that the specs don't say "hub centric." pathfinder bolt pattern is 6x5.5 (139.7mm) . . . I was pretty sure that the 1/4 ton Chevy pickups still use that pattern but I could be wrong . . . . The Cragar Soft 8 you linked to is available in 15x8 and 6x5.5 bolt pattern to fit Nissans. I don't know if they clear the calipers on the 2000-2004 R50s though. 16x8 would for sure. Those wheels look good but are really heavy (mostly b/c of steel construction vs aluminum). IIRC, factory backspacing is ~5" on the 16x7 R50 wheels (not 100% sure). by the way, my buddy has a 2500HD Dmax, standard cab (mild mods - Banks tuner + full exhaust) and it's one of the fastest trucks I've ever driven - torque is just insane. love the Duramax

speaking of test fitting . . . Chevy trucks use the same bolt pattern as Nissan and I know that the 3/4 ton pickups have a pretty large hub bore . . . it wouldn't be safe to drive, but you could take a wheel off the Silverado (even the fullsize spare) and mount it on the Pathfinder just to see how it looks with 245/75/16.

I only have pics with 245/70s - not the 75s. guess I need to take some new pics once I get the bumper repainted Daddy Rim brought up a good point that I forgot - a lot of 245/75/16 tires are E load rated (10-ply equivalent). those are too heavy for the Pathfinder and when you combine the stiffer, heavier tire with the higher required pressures to get the optimum contact patch (probably 40-45 psi given the 80 psi max), you're in for one harsh ride.

no spacers required - I went with this size because I wanted to keep the stock wheels. The wide vs. narrow tire debate is as bad as Ford vs. Chevy so I won't get into it. I personally don't buy into the "get the widest tire that fits" mentality so that's why I stuck with 245. The 30.5" overall diameter actually made my speedometer more accurate too. as far as turning radius goes, I assumed most guys running 265/75 are using an 8" wide aftermarket rim.

you could also just go with a taller tire instead of going wider. I have a 2001 with OME springs and run 245/75/16 Hankook Dynapro RF10s. Great fit on the 7" wide factory rim and adds ground clearance over stock. My turning radius is great (by Nissan standards) and grip is never a problem - I'll never go to 265s on this vehicle.

agreed. there are a lot of 100k+ Pathfinders out there with original fluid that still have an ok functioning brake system (maybe not optimal) so it's not crucial to do it every 3 yrs/30k or whatever the Nissan recommendation is. given the low cost though, it's worth doing if the fluid isn't a nice clean amber anymore.