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My son's '03 Pathfinder with a 2" lift has a fully torn inner boot on the pass side. The axle is a reman from Napa that we installed around 3 years ago, but the boot started tearing during the first year. Even the 2" lift seems to be rough on OEM boots. I think that taking the actual CV joint apart is hard, right? Does anyone have experience with the Flexx Boot (FB3001k) universal fit that comes with the install cone? I'm also thinking these type of boots might last longer since they are made of a material that is intended to stretch more than OEM styles. TIA. PS - haven't posted here for awhile because my son's PF has been such a good truck. He has put 55k miles on it in 5 years and he's probably spent less than $1k on parts (tires excluded) with us doing all the labor. He just bought his 2nd set of tires for it. After we replaced the rear suspension most else has been minor stuff. Mileage is not so good, it leaks a little from the rms, but now at ~170k miles with no CEL's there's no complaints.

Switch panel installed. It was shockingly easy compared to my previous rats nest because the switches came prewired to have a shared ground and shared positive, so all I had to do was run the signal wires to each switch and cut out all of the old wiring that I no longer need. They work great and I love the new look. The color is fairly close but, just a little off I’ve got it hooked up to the main forward lights, fogs, reverse lights, and my red map lights so far. The camera is going to go to the “radar” switch lol, but I need to repair the wiring first since it got messed up at some point while driving. I’m saving the alien torpedo switch for something really cool, haven’t decided yet I do need to do something about the old holes for my previous panel, thats gonna bug the hell out of me

I'm working on a project for an "improved" tailgate that incorporates a folding table and storage compartments. So you'd be bummed to do all of that work and not have my version!

Part of what would drive me nuts, is that not every individual part, is a part. Some parts are not parts, and are only part of an assembly. So the only way to get certain parts, is to buy the whole assembly. I suspect that's the issue here. You're trying to get that broken plastic trim piece, and you think it's a part...but it's not a part. It's a component to an assembly, and it was never listed as a part, designed as a part, or sold as a part. It's a piece of a part, so to speak. It's part of an assembly. It never had it's own number. The only way to get that is to replace the whole box. I'm going to hit some more junk yards locally, and try to find more parts for my Pathfinder. Heck, I might have to go into business pulling parts and listing them on ebay! lol

I have the exact same problem with mine and have found noting on it either except a couple of the lids. not one have i found in a jy pathy in years of looking. what i plan on doing when i get back into interior upgrading is machine one out of 1/8 steel plate with tabs on each side to mount it to the lower box

Post #38 on @Dbot ‘s build thread gives a visual. Basically just drill out the mounting holes, and find a larger bolt that fits the provided sleeve.

If I get a chance this weekend, I'll post some pictures up on my SFD. Also, recommend welding the rear block from the unibody to the block that goes between the subframe. I think that part of the frame has the most stress. The pem insert in the unibody broke and the block starting becoming loose, especially after hitting something so hard that literally pulled my hands of the steering wheel and also had to weld the sub frame, because of a stress tear. Luckily that I didn't bend the lower control arm. Last weekend went off roading with a few buddies and everything is tight, no more of the front end sounding like it's going to fall apart and also if you decide to do the SFD, all the work you put in it and time, there's no way that you're going to put it back to stock. you'll see what I'm talking about. It's a real pain in the arses. David