R50 hub problems...update on bottom

[turbopath]

ok, I'm trying to replace my wheel bearings in my 98 pathy. I've removed the caliper, cap thing, lock washer, removed the little lock screw so now it spins freely, but now I can't get that funky threaded thing off. It has two notches to turn it with. I've pounded on it for a while with a hammer and punch and it's not turning. Any ideas?

Edited April 23, 2006 by turbopath

[Pezzy]

I assume you mean the ring, that the two screws were in, has holes all around it? If you can spin that ring around, it should just unthread...

[turbopath]

I got it off..I had to use a punch and go around and around and around. Kinda sucked. Now I just need to get the new bearings in.

[lewisnc100]

This locknut socket helps (OTC7698), especially since the Nissan steps call for 58-72 ft/lbs of torque to seat the bearings when you put them back in. I think most people use a punch but that locknut socket makes it easy.

 

http://groups.msn.com/LewisPictures/shoebo...hoto&PhotoID=21

[02silverpathy]

WOW Lewis that is a better price than I paid...but I didn'tknow it was interchangeable with thiose other truck either......

 

I paid a "discounted" rate for AST part at $65!!!

 

:o YIKES :o

[turbopath]

OK, I hate the factory hubs. For some reason I had a REALLY hard time getting the passenger side retaining nut to thread. The bearings and races were pretty simple with a punch and bearing hammer thing I've got. The driver side retaining nut just glides through the thread, but the passenger side I had to use my impact wrench to thread. I'm assuming the warn kit doesn't replace that nut does it... Either way I am not impressed with the factory "drive flange"

[jj big shoe]

but the passenger side I had to use my impact wrench to thread.

Eeewww, I don't like the sound of that...*winces*.

I know, I know, I wasn't there. But man, there's gotta be a better way to do that.

[turbopath]

ok, I got my hubs in. I tried to hand pack the bearings since my grease gun wasn't getting along with my packer tool. I squished what grease I could into them. Is it normal for the hub to grab the axle with just the retaining nut torqued on? I believe I did it to 50ft ft lbs and it grabs the axle hard. I would think it should spin freely. This is with the little drive flange thing with a screw in it not installed. Anyway, I can't turn it with one wheel on the ground... I would loosen the retaining nut but then I wouldn't be able to get the snap ring on.

[lewisnc100]

I believe I did it to 50ft ft lbs and it grabs the axle hard. I would think it should spin freely.

That 58-72ft/lbs is just to seat the bearings, you back it off and torque it to 4.3-13 in/lbs. Turning it at 58-72ft/lbs is pretty tough but helps to seat everything.

[turbopath]

ok, there's no way to do a looser torque rating and have the snap ring fit. I think there's something wrong with the axle nut. The other side will go on and off with ease. The passenger side needs an impact just to get the stupid thing on. It's not cross threaded either. I think I may have to replace the cv axle just to get one with good thread on it. I'll know for sure after I try the nut from the driver side hub

[lewisnc100]

Did you take the hub back off and check the inner seal and bearing, easy to maul the seal as you put the hub back on.

[turbopath]

yup...they're brand new and lookin good. I think I may need a new axle and nut on that side. The nut from the other side doesn't thread very well on it either.