T-belt Project;Harmonic Balancer quick Q?

[vidro]

Of cource nothing can be straight forward with me and this vehicle, my friends preist is doing the exor thing on the vehicle while I post this.

 

Good news, It only took me 1 hour to get to the point that I got pissed off ,this is a record.

First sign things were a miss, did not have the right socket and it took me 3 trips to the store to get it right.

 

I need to know of the best way to lock the crank or the balancer to lossen the H-Balancer bolt?

 

Is this a reverse thread bolt?

 

water pump looks new and bearing feels o.k., the PO who had it bought it when it had 75,000 miles and told me the Tbelt was changed at 110000 but the water pump had never been changed.

This vehilce now has over 220,000 miles this is why Im doing the Tbelt and thought I would do the Wpump while I was in here, still change wpump you think?

[Casey.T]

27mm socket on mine.

 

You can remove the 2, 14 mm (i think) bolts on the starter and slide it forward about 1" then you can use a long sturdy regular screwdriver to wedge in the flywhel teeth. Becareful and go slow.

 

The Harmonic Balancer needs to be the one that you screw 3 bolts into the HB its self. do not use the ones that have claws.

Edited October 30, 2005 by Casey.T

[vidro]

Being That it is a standard trannie, would I hurt anything by putting it into gear and just let the load of the vehicle put the tension on the crank?

[vidro]

She's done.

The old belt looked good, the old water pump looked good, but the tension pulley was noisy.

All these items changed as preventive maintenance, vehicle has 220,000 miles on it.

The hardest thing here was the adjustment of the tensioner and that was not labor intensive. It was a new concept for me to used a feeler gage in a timing belt scenario.

The harmonic balancer bolt broke loose fairly easy after I put the vehicle in gear and took a hammer to my rachet, the quick and sudden impacts broke it loose.

[lgranch]

Holding the engine still with a std tranny is no problem especilly with a new rebuild like yours. Now for the rope trick:

 

Take out the #1 spark plug (thats an easy one) Crank the engine by hand until the #1 cylinder is on its compression stroke. Then feed a nylon rope down into the spark plug hole when the piston comes to the top is can not compress the rope and you will have a secured crank to work with. obvious you have to back the pistion off to release the rope and remove it. I have done this 100s of times on all different engined and atleast 12 times on a VG30E with no problems. This if for torquing the bolt. To remove it you just do the same only with find the right pistion stroke with the engine turning in the wrong direction.

 

Remember once the bolt is loose you still have to turn the motor over to install the T belt properly. My suggestion here is to remove just the pulley leaving the belt gear in place reinstall the bolt with washers to take up the slack. Turn the motor over until top dead center on the #1. The pully marks should line up and mark the crank gear now. If anyone has ever found a factory marking for the crank gear speak up. Then use a belt that is marked with cam line ups and it is easy after that.