tranny question, Pic now available

[vidro]

This proves I'm a moron.

I've knocked out the pin in the striking arm but I'm having a heck of a time removing the arm from the rod, is there a trick to this or do I use more force?

 

Does any body want to see pictures of this ordeal before I throw the D@#m thing into the street?

Edited August 26, 2005 by vidro

[Precise1]

I'll hold off from the moron comments until I have a clue what you are talking about...

Yeah a picture would be great !!

 

B

[Slick]

You are not a moron.. you are frustrated. you can dooooo eeeeeeet!!

[Animal]

"striking arm" in a transmission? :confused:

Thought that was only in baseball.

[vidro]

This is the striker arm on the striker rod.

If you stay in the middle of the picture and go to the right you will see a little hole.

That was where the pin was that I knocked out, and supposedly the arm should now slide off the rod but it aint happenen

 

 

This is what I found in the front portion of the transmission

This is not brass and the gears up front look good I honestly can not see where this stuff came from.

 

I'm going to ask even though these are not the best pictures, do these pieces look like some thing to any body?

 

 

Let me also add that there was a big misinterpretation from some the fellow that informed me of this vehicle and new it and the owner well.

When I picked the vehicle up I never tried putting it in 3rd or 5th because it was my understanding that they didn't work so I never tried.

I have now found out that this is not the case, the tranny was noisy in 3rd and 5th but still functional.

Verbiage was used that the gears should not be used until the tranny was looked at

So MAYBE things aren't as bad as I thought even thought there are pieces of metal floating around in this thing

Edited August 26, 2005 by vidro

[vidro]

This is what I found in the front portion of the transmission

This is not brass and the gears up front look good I honestly can not see where this stuff came from.

 

I'm going to ask even though these are not the best pictures, do these pieces look like some thing to any body?

Edited August 26, 2005 by vidro

[vidro]

Another shot with the pieces on their sides

[Animal]

I believe the rod should pull out of the arm when you separate the extension from the case. No?

The pieces, as best I can see, appear to be either a spacer or thrust washer/bearing.

[vidro]

After evaluating the pieces and putting them together I have come to the conclusion that this is part of a bear "race" and "cage".

The tranny is not disassemble but beings that I found it at the bottom of the front cover would make me think the component that went bad is in the front section, I do not see any thing that looks as though it as suffered that much damage.

I'm wondering if it is not one of the bearing in the middle section.

[Precise1]

Ok, I pretty much agree with both you and animal... I wouldn't be suprised if that bearing race/cage is from the input shaft. I believe that can be an issue sometimes, and there is a TSB pinned the garage/tech section about overfilling the case so the front bearing is always lubed. Just a guess... Good luck !

 

B

[vidro]

Animal,

Yes, I think the striker arm is to slide off the shaft, at least it's suppose to.

I have no idea what could be holding it on now. I drove the pin out, that should be it, right?

[Animal]

Did you remove the bolts holding the extension to the case? If you have, you may need a rubber mallet tap them apart.

[vidro]

I may not be doing a good job describing things.

The front case is off and the back case would come off if the striker arm would slide off the striker rod. (the back case is seperated from the middel plate).

 

Per the disassembly instruction from the manual, it states to drive out the "pin" that holds the arm and rod assembly together (which I've done). Than holding on to the striker arm, lightly tap and pull the rear case off with the striker arm.

 

I am beginning to think the term "lightly tap" maybe what needs to be defined.

I have not used metal to metal persuasion yet but I have put a piece of wood on the arm and smack the sh@# out of it and still nothing has moved.

 

If anyone has done this before a little bit of input would be of great help.

 

Let me add my disclamer financially I can not take this thing to a pro so, I will have to do.

 

 

looking at the front gears and syncros I am optimistic, as things stand right now all I'm going to need is a bearing kit

$160.00.

[Precise1]

I have no idea what could be holding it on now. I drove the pin out, that should be it, right?

 

Sometimes with a pin hole, the metal on the mating pieces can be deformed around the hole, binding it fairly tight. This can happen from installation of the pin, use/wear or removing the pin. It doesn't take much really. Have you soaked it with penetrant ? Can you try to rotate the arm radially about the shaft to try to loosen it up a little ? I think you will have to go with 'lightly tapping' to get it to start to budge. I HIGHLY recommend using a deadblow hammer, maybe 16-32 ounce, to start with. Otherwise, use a piece of aluminum or brass as a drift pin and a hand sledge. Maybe scribe marks so you can see if you get any movement. Start working it back and forth, both directions to try to free it up. Just use patience and judgement, and I'm sure you will be fine.

Before reassembly, be sure to examine around the pin hole, you may ned to do a little filing or chase the hole with a drill or reamer. Hope this helps !!

 

B

[Animal]

The front case is off and the back case would come off if the striker arm would slide off the striker rod. (the back case is seperated from the middel plate).

 

Per the disassembly instruction from the manual, it states to drive out the "pin" that holds the arm and rod assembly together (which I've done). Than holding on to the striker arm, lightly tap and pull the rear case off with the striker arm.

 

I am beginning to think the term "lightly tap" maybe what needs to be defined.

I have not used metal to metal persuasion yet but I have put a piece of wood on the arm and smack the sh@# out of it and still nothing has moved.

Let me see if I understand your correctly. On a 2WD, there are three external pieces that make up the case:

1. the transmission case is the largest, front most

2. the adapter plate is the smallest, located in the middle

3. the extension case is the rear most which is where the shifter mounts

 

You have removed the transmission case and are now try to separate the adapter fron the extension case? If so, I do not believe you did this in the right sequence (extension case should be removed first), but the problem you are fighting is probably getting the seal between the adapter and extension to break loose. If the transmission case was (is?) still attached, you would place the assembly face down (extension pointing up) and tap lightly on the extension to get the seal loose.

Edited August 29, 2005 by Animal

[vidro]

Originally what you have stated was true, at the first getting the housing to separate from the middle plate was a royal pain but I got beyond that.

And you are also correct in that I did take the bell housing portion off first after I had no success with removing the arm from the rod at the back housing.

 

Well I figured it all out. Here is the story the manual states to knock our the "pin" from the arm and rod then remove the arm with the housing. What they don't tell you nor have I experienced is that this is a "double pin" a pin with in a pin.

Yes I knocked out the center of the pin thinking that the other pin was a machined sleeve to hold the pin, WRONG.

After reevaluating it it is a second pin not a sleeve. I show this in one of the pictures I had recently uploaded.

 

Out side of getting the right size pullers it's been a piece of cake to disassemble.

The damage to the tranny is nil, the only thing is the main shaft bearing cage that holds the ball bearings at equal distance is gone, but all the syncros, gears, and the shafts look good.

[Animal]

Ya know, I saw the picture and thought you must have taken it before removing the pin. Teach me to ASS-U-ME.

 

Good to hear it isn't anything major. You are probably planning to replace all the bearings and bushings while you have it apart anyway. Right? If it were me and I could afford it, I'd do the syncros as well - wouldn't want to hear that grind 20K later going into 2nd or 3rd. -thnkboutit-

Edited August 29, 2005 by Animal

[vidro]

You are correct, I plan on changing ALL bearings, at least if I can find the kit with all the bearings.

I checked the local dealer on the cost for just the main shaft bearing an that was 92 bucks.

I located a place on the Internet that has a rebuild kit that states it includes bearings, gaskest and seals for 155 or an overhual kit which is every thing that is in the rebuild kit plus the syncros for 380.

Of cource I would pick up the rebuild kit but my luck is the one bearing that is bad is probably only avaliable in the Over haul kit.

 

The Syncros look real good along with every thing but that one bearing.

[Animal]

Have you check the inner surface of the syncros? This portion has "normal" wear and is not apparent.

[Precise1]

LOL, I never would have guessed (without examining it, maybe) that it is a pin in pin design !! Thats the first I have heard of. Was the center pin a dowel (solid and smooth) and the outer a roll pin (crudely formed (hollow obviously) with a split in the case) ?

So it was the input shaft bearing ? Or is the main shaft you are refering tt something else. I'll study the manual when you tell me.

 

the main shaft bearing cage that holds the ball bearings at equal distance is gone, but all the syncros, gears, and the shafts look good.

 

Good, sounds like a basic rebuild. Glad there is no additional damage !!

 

B

[vidro]

The middle pin was solid, the outer "pin" or "sleeve" look like a roller pin.

It turns out that all the "pin" that are required to knock out are design the same.

 

The bad bearing is the "Main shaft front bearing", the is is the bearing on the main shaft but is in the center plate.

I'm not sure why they call it the "front" bearing, I would have figure that title reserve to the bearing that is in the bell housing portion of the shaft.

 

I have also found that this disassembly requires many different kinds of pullers

Be warned if you do tear one of these down you need a puller with a minimum arm reach 10 inches and a "flat" puller with no less than 13 inches of all thread.