DIY Control Arm Bushings

[PsychoPath]

I know this is a well worn topic but I've been searching and haven't found the information that I really need. I'm replacing the old control arm bushings (upper and lower) on my 96. I have one of the lowers out now. I'm using the poly bushings available from AC. I'm using a ball joint press but I'm finding that the bushing is just compressing itself on it's lip, and not sliding into it's housing. Is is absolutely necessary to remove the inner liner from the bush housing?

 

If there is anyone out there that has actually done this work themselves, I'd like to hear your experiences.

 

Thanks

[Guest Larimer]

I havent done this myself, but kmgar99 has. Here is his DIY kmgar99 Lower Bushings

 

I just ordered my bushings today hopefully I get them in the next 2 months...

[RowOSU]

I just ordered the bushings, ordered monday night, had them by friday morning. And I am in Ohio, so it's not like i am in Florida or anything. Best part is found a shop to do that and rear shocks for 120 bucks in labor. woot!

[PsychoPath]

It's a hell of a job... Once you get the sequence down it isn't so bad, I guess, but nothing happens fast or easy. kmgar99 has the right idea. I didn't know about that inner sleeve until I got the first arm out. A sawzall is the best option as far as I can tell, just be careful not to score the inside of the actual bush housing. That said, don't worry too much about cleaning all the rubber out, beacuse that whole inner sleeve comes out anyway. (Mine is a 96... I don't know if all years had that sleeve inside). The poly bushings won't fit with it in. After making a couple of cuts with a sawzall I used a torch to heat them then pounded them out with a punch like kmgar99. One end actually popped out by just hitting it with a hammer.

 

This little torch is worth its weight in gold, too. I found a MAPP/Oxygen torch ay Home Depot for about fifty bucks. The O2 bottles don't go very far, but it's a really useful tool for heating frozen parts and burning the old rubber bushings out of their housings.

 

Also: kmgar99 used a bench vise to press his in. I rented a ball joint press from NAPA. Getting everything lined up so that they go in straight is the hard part, but once you do they squeeze in fairly easily. I've heard someone say you need a hydraulic press but that's not really true. The ball joint press looks like a big c-clamp, and NAPA rents for free, more or less. You buy it and return it whenever you're done... No daily charge, just a big deposit, basically.

 

The only other wall I hit was finding new grade 8 bolts for the arms. Ended up going to Nissan for those. The uppers are actually a little bit longer, so I supposed it's good that I did, or else I wouldn't have realized that. They aren't cheaps... The uppers are over 3 bucks apiece.The lowers were under 2 I think. Nissan had to special order them, I should have them today.

 

I'll try to get some pictures up somewhere for anyone that's interested.

 

Oh and RowOSU: If I had someone to do it for 120 bucks I would absolutely take them up on it. Is that for the uppers and lowers?

[PsychoPath]

Oh yeah, I forgot: Can anyone tell me why the ends of those bolts are splined?

[Guest Larimer]

Ah, your bolt question gives me another question. What are the specs on the bolts, Grade 8, size, thread, length?

 

The dealer here hates DIYers and wants to charge me $80 for the bolts, they charge me $36 if I pay them at shop rate to do it for me.

[PsychoPath]

Larimer:

 

I don't know the specs, to be perfectly honest. I went by part number through my dealer. He had to special order them and I'm hoping to have them this afternoon.

 

I will say this: If he wants $80 you should talk to the manager of parts or someone higher up because that is bull. I don't remember the actual prices, but $36 is about the cost of all the bolts and nuts for upper AND lower control arms. Unfortunately each nut and bolt is sold separately. When I get my new ones I'll post the specs on them for you.