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Manual vs Auto Trans Crossmember Picture PLEASE


Resbum
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I really, really need to see a picture of a MANUAL trans crossmember as it sits in the vehicle, while mounted to the trans and frame rails. I've searched the forum and the threads dealing with the swap don't show one picture of it. Everyone talks about it, but nobody shows it. Or, I just didn't find the thead with a picture.

 

3 years ago I bought my Pathy from a guy who'd done the auto to manual trans conversion. I've had to go through and redo, or just plain do, a fair amount of the things needed to do the swap. Now I'm beginning to suspect they literally forced everything to line up with the mounts.

 

This weekend I decided to tackle a broken drivers side motor mount. Now I can't get the holes in the rubber motor mount to line up with the bracket attached to the engine.

 

They sit a little high, but worse the mount holes are an inch plus behind the bracket holes. I removed the bolts that mount the trans to its rubber mount and moved (pushed) the transfer case towards the drivers side frame rail. I also had to use a tiedown strap to pull the whole engine/trans/transfer case assembly forward a half inch, or so. Now I can just get the bolts into the drivers side motor mount, but, of course the trans bolts don't line up now.

 

Could someone PLEASE POST A PIC OF A MANUAL TRANS CROSSMEMBER as it's supposed to be mounted in the vehicle.

 

Or if you know what the problem is please drop a reply.

 

Oh yeah, if it matters, the crossmember in the truck has a "P" stamped in the crossmember above the drivers side torsion bar.

 

Thanks. Resbum

 

 

 

Edited by Resbum
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I have an auto trans crossmember in my 87 with a manual swap and it's just ever so slightly off center, like only 1/4 or less. When you do motor mounts try loosening the trans mount and the crossmember bolts and see if that'll give you some wiggle room to get everything lined back up. I had to do that when doing my swap and it helped a bunch, also the crossmember could be on backwards. I'll take a pic of mine in just a few minutes and see if mine has the same P as yours does.

 

Sent from inside my potato

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Thanks for the quick and thoughtful replies, RCWD21.

 

Your crossmember looks totally different than mine. Mine has no notch. It also leaves the frame rail mounting points and curves to the rear some. That's what makes me suspect it's not the one that should be used. Yours looks straight across from rail mounting point to rail mounting point, and from what I understand, that's the one that should be used.

 

That's why I finally gave up on vage descriptions of which one to use and asked for pictures. You're the second person who said they used their auto trans crossmember. The other guy said he just drilled new holes in his crossmember. However, there is no way I can drill new holes in mine because the holes won't be on a flat part of the crossmember. They'd line up with the leading edge curve.

 

Your help does show me that certian auto trans crossmembers will work. Thanks.

 

As the saying goes, "A picture is worth a thousand words."

 

So, I'm still asking for someone to PLEASE post a picture of a known manual trans crossmember as Nissan meant for it to be mounted in the vehicle. With a picture there is no doubt what-so-ever how Nissan intended manual transmissions to be mounted in our Pathfinders.

 

Resbum

 

 

Edited by Resbum
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Got it! Thanks again, RCWD21.

 

I literally had to loosen about a 1/4" every, and any, bolt that had anything to do with a mounting system point, except the brackets attached to the engine. I think there's a little stored stress in the rubbers still, but I hope there's less than there use to be. That probably contributed to the old mount failure.

 

Resbum

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I had to do the same thing with mine. But it's really only about a 1/4" and once everything gets hot and the rubber relaxes it should be fine. New mounts are always going to be super stiff at first.

 

Also remember that it may not line up 100% since you've installed new mounts. Manufacturers usually differ a little bit from an oem part so they will never be exactly the same.

 

Sent from inside my potato

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I just remembered something and it may or may not make a difference. The cross member I used was from the original 3 speed auto. I'm not sure if there's a difference between the mount points on a 3 speed vs a 4 speed but that could be a factor too. What I do know though is that putting it on backwards and trying to figure out why everything won't line up at 12 am makes for a lovely night.

 

Sent from inside my potato

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