starbai Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 So. Here's a new one that popped up today that I'm stumped on. I'm driving to work this morning around 60mph out of no where I get this big lurch. Almost felt like the entire transmission just fell outta the car. O/D light starts flashing at me... Then it goes away and the car runs fine. Few more miles down the road does it again. Get onto local streets much slower pace doesn't seem to happen at all. The o/d light is not on and it's not throwing any codes On my way home from work today it seems like if I provoke if by giving it some gas while already up to speed that's when it doesn't like it. I feel like it could be an electrical problem because the stereo completely shuts off and I see the voltage drop considerably from about 14.1 to 12.7 and come right back up as a few seconds later when the od blinking light goes away and it resumes driving just fine. I also checked the transmission fluid level and it seems perfectly full. Not low at all. It's not shifting hard otherwise nor does it seem to be slipping at all. It does lurch, od light, voltage drop and then back to normal like nothing happened within a few seconds seemingly outta no where and then it's fine again. With no codes to go off of I genuinely have no idea where to start.Theres a procedure here: that supposedly runs a test on the transmission and then returns a number of flashing lights to get a code. When I did this I got 11 or 12 blinks which if i understand correctly means everything is functioning as it should. can anyone correct me if i'm wrong? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 Something similar happened to my Altima (manual transmission so no O/D light flash) but all other symptoms were the same, when the alternator or voltage regulator started intermittently going out. I'd suspect that this could also happen if you have a shorting battery cell pulling down the system voltage. Nissan ECUs have a limp home mode, where if the ignition coils and fuel injectors don't have enough power to fire, it will run ok up to about 2000 RPM, but will cut hard above that RPM. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starbai Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 When your alternator started to go out did you get a battery light on the dash? I suspect mine is starting to go but hasn't yet and that's why I get no charging error light. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starbai Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 PS the voltage regulator is built into the alternator, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starbai Posted July 21, 2016 Author Share Posted July 21, 2016 PS the voltage regulator is built into the alternator, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 It started bucking first, but then the alternator light stayed on. In my altima and maxima the regulator us built into the alternator. I believe it is the same for all post 1990 Nissans. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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