Toyojay Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Hey all... Just got an R50 last week. A 2001 (not a 2001.5) model, SE 4x4 stick shift. I like it well enough so far, haven't driven it but once. It needs some repairs before it can be depended upon. I'm really a Toyota guy, daily drive a Tacoma and work for Toyota. This is my 3rd Nissan, had an 87 300ZX with the VG30 and had a 1995 Maxima with the VQ30. Couldn't pass up this Nissan, and the VQ35DE is a fantastic engine. Looking to DD and use it for light wheeling/camping in the future. In the process right now of doing the brakes, wheel bearings, it is having some weird problem with the serpentine belt I haven't figured out yet...etc. -It has a check engine light which is P1490. I've read this is a fairly common issue with the Altima's and Maxima's. (Any TSB's?) Has anyone else had this code with a pathy? If so, which is the most common culprit? Have seen the bypass valve, the cut valve itself and then maybe problems with the 12v source for the valve? Just would like some insight before I take them out. I've read the VQ35 is an oil burner, does synthetic oil make this worse? I haven't had mine long enough to know how much it burns if any at all. 195k on the odo, so I won't be surprised. What brands/weights seem to work best and minimize this issue? Usually use Mobil 1 for synthetic duties and Rotella for conventional. On that same note, it has quite a few oil leaks. One of them being both valve covers, going to do the all the gaskets on the top end. I've read about the VQ VC gaskets, and its confusing. I never had to do them on my VQ in my Maxima, but are the gaskets not replaceable? Some people say the perimeter gaskets are replaceable but not the plug seals.... some say nothing is replaceable. I'd really like to do the plug seals, I've read about the plug tube filling with oil on these motors. Either way does the WHOLE valve cover SERIOUSLY need to be replaced to do all 6 plug seals and the perimeter? That seems ridiculous. If that is the case, any body come up with a way around it...A seal from a different motor?....LOL. Anything else I should replace while I have the serp belt stuff off and the top end apart? I appreciate any help any body could throw my way, been lurking around for a week or two now and this seems like a great place... Looking forward to learning more! -Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fleurys Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Welcome. By the way my 2001 never burned any oil.... You might want to check your intake runner power valves screws,,, There is a writeup in here somewhere. Cheers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toyojay Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Welcome. By the way my 2001 never burned any oil.... You might want to check your intake runner power valves screws,,, There is a writeup in here somewhere. Cheers. Thanks, I found that write up. It said manual versions don't have those valves, but I've got to take my intake off anyways so we'll see if that's true! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 I've got 230k miles on mine. It never used oil before when I bought it with dino or after when I switched it to 5-30 synth. That is until recently where I can smell the occasional drip of oil onto a hot exhaust. Unsure what is causing it. Had similar problem in my VG powered Maxima until I tightened up the very loose at that point valve covers. I have no idea yet how hard this will be on a VQ, or if it is coming from the other place I've heard of, the rear main seal. After I found Mobil 1 switched from PAO to VISOM based oil I quit using it and just get the house brand full synthetic wherever I am. Nissan oil filters give me start up clatter which using the Mobil 1 oil filters almost completely eliminated. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toyojay Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 I've got 230k miles on mine. It never used oil before when I bought it with dino or after when I switched it to 5-30 synth. That is until recently where I can smell the occasional drip of oil onto a hot exhaust. Unsure what is causing it. Had similar problem in my VG powered Maxima until I tightened up the very loose at that point valve covers. I have no idea yet how hard this will be on a VQ, or if it is coming from the other place I've heard of, the rear main seal. After I found Mobil 1 switched from PAO to VISOM based oil I quit using it and just get the house brand full synthetic wherever I am. Nissan oil filters give me start up clatter which using the Mobil 1 oil filters almost completely eliminated. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Awesome.. that's reassuring. Mine does clatter a tiny bit on startup, I've thought it was just timing chain wear at this mileage. Good to know with the OEM filters. I'll have to experiment with different brands. Does anyone know of any brand of aftermarket parts that typically cause issues with Nissans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Champion branded filters used to cause clattering on my Maxima. The OEM filters seem to have reduced in quality. Here is a great site that does independent teardowns. Go to the end and click the link for his opinion. http://wetwesties1.tripod.com/oilfilterstudy/#w51515 Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toyojay Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Champion branded filters used to cause clattering on my Maxima. The OEM filters seem to have reduced in quality. Here is a great site that does independent teardowns. Go to the end and click the link for his opinion. http://wetwesties1.tripod.com/oilfilterstudy/#w51515 Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Seems like quite a few of those different brands are made by champion. I use OEM on my Toyota but, I've always had good experiences with Purolator and WIX filters in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinnwn Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Yes the ones I had trouble with had the champion brand on them, but many higher quality filters including Mobil1 are made by them. Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toyojay Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Does anybody have any insight on the valve covers or the check engine code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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