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Lube and modify


Guest RWRP
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I'm relatively new to this, but I want to do this work myself and learn how.

 

I want to lubricate the chassis, the suspension, and in the summer I want to repack the front wheel bearings.

 

Where are the lubrication points under the vehicle, and will synthetic grease be ok?

 

As for the wheel bearings, will it be easier to swap to manual hubs if I do that while the hub is apart for the greasing anyway?

 

I also intend to put in synthetic gear oil and t-case lube. I intend to make this truck last, but I use it for work and it needs the synthetic protection.

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Don't know about the first question, but as for the wheel bearings, when I went to manual hubs, I replaced and repacked the bearings also. (both inner and outer). As for synthetic oils, a few people have made the switch, but, depending on your mileage, the synthetics have been known to leak when you change from regular oil :blink:

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Where are the lubrication points under the vehicle, and will synthetic grease be ok?

 

 

 

 

according to what I remember it's a dry system and I don't think there's any lube points in the front, but I think there is one on the drive shaft base on the last time I went under my Pathy at a lube and oil station.

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You have 1 lubrication point on the front drive shaft about 4 inches or so in front of the transfer case.

 

It will be easier to switch to manual hubs while doing a bearing repack since you'll have to remove the dust cap and driveflanges, they can be a pain to get off the first time. If you don't do it now you'll have to remove them again later. You might also want to look into getting the right size bearing locknut socket to help seat the bearings.

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Yeah, all I see is the one on the front driveshaft near the t case, but it's not a fitting, it's shaped like a fitting, but I think it's a plug.

 

Where can I order a seal kit?

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The seals for the hubs and bearings. The manual says they need to be replaced when they are removed. I heard you can buy a kit that has all the parts for doing the job.

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You have an inner seal on each of the hubs, I'd recommend getting those at the dealer, about $10 each. I got 2 from an auto parts store and they don't have a lip so they don't seat right, had to replace one. Other than that there is an o-ring on the driveflange and an o-ring for the dust cap but mine were fine, didn't replace them.

 

You might also consider the new baffle plates. Nissan came out with replacement baffle plates for the Pathfinder that have a grease seal on them so you don't need to attach a grease seal on the back of the hubs. There was a problem with noise from those inner seals and this was a redesign to fix the problem.

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Ok, so I'll stop at the dealer's for the parts. I also bought a pound of Synpower grease, it's only $5 is one pound enough to do the two bearings?

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Is that the huge socket type thing. Which one do I need, I see them listed as 1/2 ton, and 1/2, 3/4.

 

I changed my fluids over the weekend, I stripped out the rear differential drain plug pssd I ended up using a drill pump to drain it.

 

So, has this happened to anyone else? I think the previous owner didn't change it, or he may have been the one who put lock-tite on all the plugs... I'm assuming that's what the blue (I am a dork for trying to use profanity here) is.

 

I'll have to go to a dealer to get it [bend over].

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I think you can get close with one of the GM locknut sockets but you have to bend/grind it to fit. I ordered a OTC7698 socket that fits:

 

http://www.handsontools.com/store/list_pro...product_number=

 

There was a CTA socket that was cheaper that fit but every place I checked was out. You can also look for a pin spanner that will fit on a torque wrench.

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