ascdesigns Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) My backup lights haven't been working for a month now and it's getting to be a PITA now that days are getting shorter! Has anyone replaced the backup "switch" on a manual tranny? According to the FSM, it's the forward of the two plugs on the passenger side mid-way on the tranny, but it looks like it's waaay up there. Also, have you known these switches to fail? By process of elimination, I think this is the cause. I've checked the bulbs and the fuses - all are A-OK. It's a cheap part (<$20) but if I can't get to it readily then I'll just live without the reverse lights. BTW, I have 170K on the odo. Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide! - Al Edited September 7, 2012 by ascdesigns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 I had a back-up switch start shorting on my manual and taking out fuses. I figured out a way to wire around it and now use a manual switch on the dash to turn on the reverse lights and the switch on the transmission is disconnected. However, after looking at it closer sometime later I think it would be possible to change the switch at the transmission without even lowering the transmission. However, if room is tight you could take loose the aft/rear support and let it come down some (1-2" maybe) on a jack to give a little more room. The switch should be on the passenger side of the transmission at the top were the gear shift lever goes into it. I'm basing this on my 95 but if I remember correctly 97s still use the same transmission (but w/ fill plug properly located). Also, you might be able to gain access from the top if you pull gear shifter boot and such from inside the cab. Don't remember for sure on that though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 It sometimes isn't a case of the switch, the part inside the tranny wears down and will no longer activate it. Sort of common. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted September 8, 2012 Author Share Posted September 8, 2012 Thanks all - I'll try replacing it soon. - Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 I'm not sure about r50s but on my WD21 with no body lift the only way I could get a wrench on it was through the shifter hole. The switch I bought from rock auto was shorted and blowing fuses too. I got one from local source and all is good. I had done the manual switch too but kept forgetting to turn them off. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 I'm not sure about r50s but on my WD21 with no body lift the only way I could get a wrench on it was through the shifter hole. The switch I bought from rock auto was shorted and blowing fuses too. I got one from local source and all is good. I had done the manual switch too but kept forgetting to turn them off. James Well, its been awhile since I dealt with it so maybe through the shifter hole is the best route. I used a lighted switch to help remind me to turn it off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 mine tends to flicker on and off while in reverse unless i hold it back so idk what the deal is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted October 7, 2012 Author Share Posted October 7, 2012 (edited) Just a quick update before this thread gets too old: I replaced the switch today. No need to lower the tranny but I did need to access it from the top in order to tighten the new switch. Here's some more detailed steps: 1) disconnect harness from switch (access from under vehicle). 2) make life easier: cut the wires as close to the threaded switch as possible. 3) slide a 13/16" spark plug wrench over the switch and use a 13/16" box wrench on the male end of the socket to loosen. A ratchet won't fit on the end, it'll hit the undercarriage. 4) wrap the new switch's threads with teflon tape (to seal) and start threading it into the transmission. 5) (from inside the vehicle) remove center console and the metal framed plate on the transmission hump. It's a bunch of 10mm screws. 6) using a short 19mm (or 13/16") open end wrench, tighten the switch. When it stops threading, only tighten about 1/8 turn more - it's not a hardened bolt! 7) crawl back underneath and connect the harness. 8) TEST the reverse lights before reassembling everything. 9) reassemble, get cleaned up and enjoy a *relaxing* beverage. In the rare event your back-up switch goes bad, hopefully this will help! Sorry, no pics since it was 35-40 degrees out and I was cranking to get this done. - Al Edited October 7, 2012 by ascdesigns Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edicer2 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 awesome so that fixed it huh...i wonder if thats whats wrong with mine since it fickers on and off until i hold it in reverse for some reason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 awesome so that fixed it huh...i wonder if thats whats wrong with mine since it fickers on and off until i hold it in reverse for some reason That sounds like the case of the piece inside the tranny wearing down. If you remove your switch and just push the button and it works, you'll know that's the case Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Actually, there's another possibility... My old switch did work when I tested it. BUT, I had to press the little nub all the way in and jiggle it. It was also about 1/16" to 1/8" shorter than my new switch, probably from the internal spring losing it's tension. I can't imagine the striker inside the tranny is that soft compared to the switch that it would wear down. Anything's possible, but for $15 bucks or so it's not a huge money or time investment to try. Just some food for thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 After trying 3 different back up switches, and then welding a tiny nub on the end of the switch, I can assure you (and I got the idea from another member who did it first, MY1PATH) that it was the inside of the tranny that wore down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ascdesigns Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Not doubting you! Just putting another possibility since my switch was still "working". Bummer that your tranny striker was worn - how many miles on your Pathy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trogdor636 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Only 165k when I bought it....and it certainly wasnt working then....my buddy has a 93 with less miles on it, and I think his is starting to do the flash thing unless you hold it tight in gear. I was hoping it was like you said, which is why I tried about 3 different brands of switches! Edited October 9, 2012 by Trogdor636 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 My old switch worked kind of like that too. When it was half way down it had continuity then lost it when it was all the way down. The first new switch from rock auto was shorted a blew the fuse. The second new switch from Oreilly, and all is well. I had read what MY1PATH posted and hoped I didn't have that problem. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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