Chriskaw440 Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 I feel as though I have a bearing going bad on my 1990 SE passenger side rear axle/wheel.... Is it a huge pain in the ass to do in your own garage? need a press? etc etc. Most cars I have replaced bearings on lately have had the "hub assembly" type that just pop on and off the axle or spindle... I'm thinking mine (with disc brakes) is probably the old school "cut it off and use a press to install new set".... thanks, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Yes, you need a bearing puller to do the rear bearings. And you need to force them back in. With rear disks its not that bad, you pull the shaft, diff and axle shafts when you do it. You will also need to get new axle seals (somethings call wheel seals) It should be a 1 day job if you have all the right parts and tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted June 10, 2012 Author Share Posted June 10, 2012 Yep that's what I was pretty much figuring given the age of it. I'll be better off paying a shop then....as I don't have pullers or presses. thanks for the info! -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 (edited) I paid for a shop to do one of my rear's on my Pathfinder, think I paid $250 total but that was also because he had to recondition the axle since the bearing really busted up and kind of damaged things. He did great work though, it was well worth my money. I've done wheel bearings on my BMW's but they're nothing like the Pathfinder IMO, I'd rather do them all day long... Edited June 11, 2012 by Adam Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted June 14, 2012 Author Share Posted June 14, 2012 Yeah I was just given a quote of $250.00 per side. The HUB type on newer cars are so much easier! I dropped my driveshaft at the differential to check the ujoint and it moves freely on one axis but sticks a bit on the other axis...so I'm wanting to replace that which I can do myself of course, but when I look up the parts I see them listed as "Inner lock up" and "outer lock up"....which refers to measuring the size from the c-clip grove inside or outside. Anyone know off hand which ones are on the 1990 rear shafts? I can pull it first and just take it to the parts store to match up but I'd rather know before hand so I can just get them and do the job. thanks, Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted June 15, 2012 Author Share Posted June 15, 2012 U joints are Inner lock on the main drive shaft....and I pick up my new joints today Now I'll have something to do tonight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chriskaw440 Posted June 16, 2012 Author Share Posted June 16, 2012 New rear U-Joint is on and test driven with no vibrations. whew! Been so long since I did U-joints on a car....I had forgotten how FUN it is beating on the caps until they break loose with a Mini Sledge and socket. Only hit my thumb once. My tip for future U-joint do-it-yourselfers.....once the old assembly is removed and soforth, use a small drum grinder on a drill to clean/grind out the insides of the cap cradles (whatever they're called...) on the shaft and flange. The new joint caps will pop in MUCH easier and still be a firm fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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