Mobil 1 and Lucas Tranny conditioner, removing tranny oil pan

[elcid]

Hi,

 

So after reading the forum and armed with some knowledge on fluid types ( thanks to you guys ), I went off to the local auto part store and got myself litres of Mobil 1 synthecic ATF fluid. when I got home, I tried to remove the oil pan to no avail!. I managed to removed all the bolts of the transmission pan but for the life of me, I couldnt actually remove the pan at all!. Pan came on unbolted but the exhaust pipe didnt allow for a complete removal. Is this even possible?

 

so, since I couldnt remove the pan, I went ahead and removed the magnet. To my very surprise, it was not covered much with dust particles, just a few passes with a cloth and got it shiny again. It didnt contain any big chucks of metal or anything. I then took a clean cloth and swipe the entire oil pan and didnt get much either!. so I am guessing my tranny is in good shape, so I hope.

 

I measured the fluid I got out of the pan and it came out at 5 quarts. I replaced the fluid with Mobil 1 synthetic and a 1 quart of Lucas automatic transmission Conditioner. Is the lucas good stuffs?

 

I also cleaned out the Throttle body, replaced the PCV valve as well. Hope the pathy is good to go for a while!

 

Now I just have to change the front / rear axle with gear fluid as well as the transfer case!

[Towncivilian]

Don't use the Lucas garbage. Mobil 1 spent ridiculous amounts of money in research and development, testing of the fluid, etc and by adding Lucas you added some unknown additive to the fluid. I'm not certain on what exactly is in the Lucas transmission conditioner, but it probably doesn't do much except slightly thicken the ATF to maybe increase line pressure. If you're going to put any additive in an automatic transmission, use Lubegard Red. It's used by many transmission shops and reduces operating temperatures. GM even recommends it in a TSB for certain Saab transmissions.

 

Installation of a Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous. Install one on the power steering return line too to significantly prolong the usable life of the power steering fluid. A 3/8" Magnefine will fit both the transmission and power steering hoses. See a Magnefine filter in use for 23,000 miles opened here. The transmission cooler return line is located on the passenger side, and the power steering return hose is connected to the tube on the side of the power steering fluid reservior.

 

See this thread for hints on removing the pan.

Edited January 29, 2012 by Towncivilian

[elcid]

Don't use the Lucas garbage. Mobil 1 spent ridiculous amounts of money in research and development, testing of the fluid, etc and by adding Lucas you added some unknown additive to the fluid. I'm not certain on what exactly is in the Lucas transmission conditioner, but it probably doesn't do much except slightly thicken the ATF to maybe increase line pressure. If you're going to put any additive in an automatic transmission, use Lubegard Red. It's used by many transmission shops and reduces operating temperatures. GM even recommends it in a TSB for certain Saab transmissions.

 

Installation of a Magnefine in-line transmission filter on the transmission cooler return line is also highly recommended. The Magnefine contains a very strong magnet to catch all ferrous wear material, and filtering media in the range of 35 microns to catch anything non-ferrous. Install one on the power steering return line too to significantly prolong the usable life of the power steering fluid. A 3/8" Magnefine will fit both the transmission and power steering hoses. See a Magnefine filter in use for 23,000 miles opened here. The transmission cooler return line is located on the passenger side, and the power steering return hose is connected to the tube on the side of the power steering fluid reservior.

 

See this thread for hints on removing the pan.

 

Thank you! i gratly appreciate the post!. I will order an inline filter or maybe two ( for my 300ZX TT ) and try it out!.

[1994SEV6]

I tried to remove the oil pan to no avail!. I managed to removed all the bolts of the transmission pan but for the life of me, I couldnt actually remove the pan at all!. Pan came on unbolted but the exhaust pipe didnt allow for a complete removal. Is this even possible?

 

I replaced the fluid with Mobil 1 synthetic and a 1 quart of Lucas automatic transmission Conditioner. Is the lucas good stuffs?

come on man. I linked you how to remove the trans pan in your other thread. There is no way to get the pan out without removing the exhaust. Not a huge deal, especially if your bolts aren't rusted.

 

"I put a quart of lucas in. Is this lucas good stuffs?" Well....it's too late now, I suppose.

 

Anyway, seems like you did 5x more good than you did bad. Just stay away from Lucas products in the future. Remember, there is no such thing as a miracle in a bottle.

 

 

Edit: I re-read that thread that Town linked. Apparently, that guy removed the pan without removing the exhaust. That's an amazing feat. His picture shows that you have to remove some oil piping though. EEK. I was on the ground wrestling with my pan for an hour and there was no way that thing was coming out. I wasn't being gentle either since the trans was scrap.

Edited January 29, 2012 by 1994SEV6