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98 KS HELP!


clhart26
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i've been reading about these KS relocation articles for the past hour. I beleive that i've cut open the correct vehicle harness to find my KS wires. there are injector wires in this loom, along with another black insulator with a wire in it. i was expecting to find 2 wires in this, but only found one insulated wire with bare wire wrapped around it. this whole loom goes to the back of the engine. SO- is this the wrong harness or is mine just "different" from other peoples? PLEASE HELP!

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i've been reading about these KS relocation articles for the past hour. I beleive that i've cut open the correct vehicle harness to find my KS wires. there are injector wires in this loom, along with another black insulator with a wire in it. i was expecting to find 2 wires in this, but only found one insulated wire with bare wire wrapped around it. this whole loom goes to the back of the engine. SO- is this the wrong harness or is mine just "different" from other peoples? PLEASE HELP!

 

what is the ks ????

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i guess that shows how it's wired in, but i pre ordered the sensor, and it has 2 connections on it :scratchhead: ...so, i guess i may have to just tear it all apart, just like i didnt want to :togo:

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so that bare wire could be the ground wire to the knock sensor? that's how I'm starting to think of it...would make sense bc sense it's a "chasis ground" system, grounds wouldn't have to be an actual insulated wire? (even though it is "insulated" from the other wires.

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if the knock sensor was grounded by "connection" to the block, why would the sensor have two "hook up" terminals?(not rhetorical haha) maybe the knock sensor uses pulse width modulator set up, which it kind of makes sense to use that method. but i would think the ecm would still need a positive and ground signal straight from the sensor...i think i'm going to cut those wires, and test them with the ohm meter. and hope they come back with an accurate reading from what the repair manual states....seems i've misplaced mine, so if one of you guys have one, maybe you could look up what the readings should be for a good sensor and a bad sensor? Thanks for all the input!

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  • 2 weeks later...

so i traced the wiring harness closer to the ecm, and found that the bare wire actually is an insulated wire, but turns to a bare wire half way to the knock sensor. so, i cut the two wires and found which one was "ground" using the ohm meter. tested my new sensor for which terminal was ground. connected new wires to the stock harness, and ran them to my new sensor which i relocated on top of the intake. soldered the wires right to the terminals. just got back from a trip to ft.bragg nc, from toledo oh, and averaged 24mpg! which actually amazed the hell out of me, considering i was getting 14-17 and previous trips. wish i would've looked into this earlier!

 

next ? for your guys input, is an egr code came up for the check engine light last night. is this something that i need to replace? the whole egr valve or just the "sensor"? any input would be great!!! THANKS AGAIN

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The plumbing for the EGR valve might be clogged with carbon, you'll probably need to use a screwdriver or something to chip/pick at the carbon, it can sometimes be difficult to remove chemically - use some throttle body cleaner or carb cleaner though, it might help.

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