Switch Problems

[TooQForYou]

I didn't see any section for topics concerning electrical stuff so I'm posting this here.

 

I bought a switch for my auxiliary lights that's a touch switch-like touch screens (you just touch it to turn it off and on, no toggle button). It works except that whenever I turn my truck on, the default for the switch is 'on'. I'll turn the switch off, turn my truck off, then turn it back on and the aux lights are on because the switch is on. I went and bought another one and it did the same thing. I now just have a generic toggle switch that came with my light kit-which works fine but is ugly.

I'd like to get those touch switches working because they go with my interior better and they just look neat.

 

Any ideas as to why it's doing that or any fixes for it?

[OldSlowReliable]

If you're running your switch on an ignition based power wire, chances are it works by using a small amount of power being supplied to keep the switch in either position, and resets when you remove all power from the switch to the ON position...

 

I'd start by running your 12v+ from a constant source, instead of an ignition source, or atleast test it and see if that changes it...although without a good look at the switch and wiring, I'm not entirely sure

 

 

Where'd you buy it btw?

[TooQForYou]

I'm currently running the power into the fuse block for the heated seats- which I don't have. It receives power with the key in the 'on' position. I had originally wired it to the 'main battery' panel in the fuse box in the engine bay, which is always hot. The switch worked fine at that point. The problem with that was that the switch has two LEDs, one red for 'off' and one blue for 'on', and with it hooked up to a constant power source, an LED is always lit. Although they're LEDs and don't draw much power, I wouldn't want to chance having it hot all the time.

I'll get a pic or two of the switch up soon.

I bought it at autozone. It's made by 3A Racing. I can't find anything about it online, not even for sale.

 

Edited January 25, 2011 by TooQForYou

[OldSlowReliable]

I'm currently running the power into the fuse block for the heated seats- which I don't have. It receives power with the key in the 'on' position. I had originally wired it to the 'main battery' panel in the fuse box in the engine bay, which is always hot. The switch worked fine at that point. The problem with that was that the switch has two LEDs, one red for 'off' and one blue for 'on', and with it hooked up to a constant power source, an LED is always lit. Although they're LEDs and don't draw much power, I wouldn't want to chance having it hot all the time.

I'll get a pic or two of the switch up soon.

I bought it at autozone. It's made by 3A Racing. I can't find anything about it online, not even for sale.

 

I'm tellin ya, that switch will only work with constant power...unless you can use a capacitor or something, its always going to do that...although one LED has a .0000001% chance of draining your batter in less than a year

 

either live with them coming on at start, or run them off constant power...I'm not sure if you're concerned with it draining your battery or just having a constantly hot wire....I wouldn't be concerned with either tbh

[TooQForYou]

Well right now I have a traditional toggle switch. But yeah my worries were that the LED constantly being lit would drain the battery. But thanks for clearing that up

[Andreww93]

Which one of the connectors is ground, power, and run too accesary, i just bought one and im unsure how to wire it up as i dont know which is which

[OldSlowReliable]

if I had to guess, I'd say the two right next to eachother are power/ground, power being the one on the end lined up with the 3rd prong, and the other prong being acc

 

 

Just a guess though, no harm in trial and error

[TooQForYou]

The prong towards the top in this pic is the trigger, the prong to the lower right is the switch's ground, and the prong to the lower left is the switch's power.