Slip-On CV Boot?

[PlatinumRacing]

I discovered a torn drivers side CV boot today.

 

I called NAPA, Advance Autoparts, and AutoZone and apparently they don't have any for the R50. The internet returned no results either.

 

I've done CV shafts on cars before, and I've worked on old American trucks with manual locking hubs and stick axles. Despite this, the thought of tearing into a Japanese designed auto-locking hub still kinda scares me. If I have to tear into the truck to fix the boot I'm going to replace the entire CV shaft. Tearing apart and rebuilding a CV shaft is something I'm not willing to do again, since the last one I rebuilt wasn't worth the $50 I saved by doing it myself. Knowing that it won't be worth the trouble to rebuild the shaft, I've sourced one brand new for cheap should I fail to locate a slip-on boot.

 

So, if anyone knows of any slip-on boot kits from other vehicles that will fit the R50 please let me know. Otherwise any info on what I'm going to be up against with the auto-hubs would be greatly appreciated.

[fleurys]

There is some errors in your description...but i'll start with the boot. Yes it exists : https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-outer-cv-zip-boot-p-2831.html and yes people have not said good things about this... it usually is a good compromise to get out of a trail and get a propoer boot installed...not a permanent fix.

 

 

As for the truck. A 97 does not have auto-hubs. It's a direct drive with flanges. The half-shafts always turn, even in 2wd. When you lock the 4x4, the lock happens in the transfer case and all the rest is turning. So changing an half-shaft on a 97 is about 20 minutes and 6 small bolts and 3 big ones to remove + a snap ring. That's it... nothing to worry about..

[PlatinumRacing]

There is some errors in your description...but i'll start with the boot. Yes it exists : https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-outer-cv-zip-boot-p-2831.html and yes people have not said good things about this... it usually is a good compromise to get out of a trail and get a propoer boot installed...not a permanent fix.

 

 

As for the truck. A 97 does not have auto-hubs. It's a direct drive with flanges. The half-shafts always turn, even in 2wd. When you lock the 4x4, the lock happens in the transfer case and all the rest is turning. So changing an half-shaft on a 97 is about 20 minutes and 6 small bolts and 3 big ones to remove + a snap ring. That's it... nothing to worry about..

 

 

Thanks! Now that I'm armed with this information I'll just replace the entire shaft. I would've thought that, being on the forefront of economical technology, one of the Japanese big three would've used some type of hub. It doesn't make too much sense to me to have all that extra rotating mass when you're not in 4WD. Oh well, at least I don't have to take apart any hubs.

 

And is the R50 under-driven? Are the front and rear axle ratios the same in the R50? Just wondering.

 

Thanks for all the help!

Edited December 11, 2010 by PlatinumRacing

[MY1PATH]

drive ratio is the same front and rear.

many R50 guys buy manual hubs to save mpg.

[Howie]

I have a torn boot on my front right half-shaft also, but it's the inner one. Rockauto sells the whole shaft for $65 but just the inner boot for $7. I think I'll just replace the boot for now. After all, now that I have my Warn manual hubs, in the case of shaft failure I can still get home.

 

And I concur with fleurys... was looking at the Service Manual just now, and it seems like just remove a few bolts and the the whole thing comes off. But my question is: can you leave the rotor, wheel, and brake calipers in place while slipping out the shaft? It seems like you could, but I'm not sure.

 

Has anyone here done this repair?

 

--Howie

[exit34rocker1017]

Yes doing the shaft is easier than doing the boot itself. I did the shaft replacement right before the east coast was swamped with 3 feet of snow. When i took the wheel off it started blizzarding. I really needed 4WD for the storm, but talk about last minute! Anyway, you remove the hub assembly, take off the snap ring that holds the CV in place. Then take off the 6 bolts on the inner part of the CV. It might be able to slide through, but depending how worn it is, you might need to take out the strut to spindle mounting bolts. Turning the wheel helps also. The CV will simply slide out. No need to mess with any brake components or remove the rotor/caliper. You do have to jack up the car and take off the wheel to get to the hub assembly though. Its an easy job.

Edited December 12, 2010 by exit34rocker1017

[pathfounder]

And is the R50 under-driven? Are the front and rear axle ratios the same in the R50? Just wondering.

 

There's no center diff, so by necessity, the ratios are the same front and rear.

[Howie]

Yes doing the shaft is easier than doing the boot itself. I did the shaft replacement right before the east coast was swamped with 3 feet of snow. When i took the wheel off it started blizzarding. I really needed 4WD for the storm, but talk about last minute! Anyway, you remove the hub assembly, take off the snap ring that holds the CV in place. Then take off the 6 bolts on the inner part of the CV. It might be able to slide through, but depending how worn it is, you might need to take out the strut to spindle mounting bolts. Turning the wheel helps also. The CV will simply slide out. No need to mess with any brake components or remove the rotor/caliper. You do have to jack up the car and take off the wheel to get to the hub assembly though. Its an easy job.

 

I installed Warn hubs, and so no longer have the snap ring on the outer part of the hub. Is there a snap ring on the inner side of the wheel also? The FSM doesn't show one, but there are thrust washer, grease seals, and a needle bearing in there. Do those things stay in place when you remove the axle? Which way should I turn the wheels for better access? If it's the right (passenger) side, then should I turn the wheels to the left? Finally, the FSM says to remove the lower control arm mounting bolts (which I would assume drops the inner part of the lower control arm). You didn't have to do that?

 

Thanks for your advice. It really helps to talk to someone who's already done it!

 

--Howie

[exit34rocker1017]

I also have manual hubs, and when I removed the hubs I had a snap ring I still had to remove. If you are working on the passenger side, turning the wheel to the left (counter-clockwise) will provide more room to pull it out.

 

Once you remove the snap ring you should be able to push the outer part of the CV with your finger and feel that it can be pushed out. It can only be pushed out if you remove the 6 mounting bolts.

 

I didn't have to remove the control arm bolts, because I removed the strut to knuckle bolts instead. Both of them drop the control arm, but I think it's easier to do it by the 2 large strut bolts. From memory I'll try to make a list of what I did.

 

1) Jack up car, remove tire

2) Loosen the 6 bolts holding the locking hub on and remove hub

3) You should be able to see the CV splined shaft now, with a snap ring on a part of the splined shaft. Remove it.

4) At this point you should be able to push the outer shaft of the CV out, but not all the way.

5) Remove the 6 bolts connecting the CV to the differential

6) support the control arm/knuckle with a jack, and remove the 2 bolts holding the strut to the knuckle.

7) droop the control arm/brake/hub assembly slowly and remember to disconnect the brake and ABS line from the strut do they do not stretch.

8) try to maneuver the CV axle out, and turn the wheel to the left if you are working on the passenger side if necessary.

Edited December 13, 2010 by exit34rocker1017