Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

95 Pathfinder engine swap - Need help


PFFlier
 Share

Recommended Posts

Well, I know it's been a while but I thought I'd better get something in here to wrap it up. I ended up putting in new head gasket, 1 valve, 1 rocker, 2 lifters, timing belt, water pump, seals, hoses, thermostat, cap, rotor, plugs, oil. I started it up and it ran great. I gave it back to my son in law for Christmas. I did hear a slight tranny noise now and then, but I thought oh well, that's not what I was working on and who knows how long its done that. Well, now it's back in my garage because it turnded into a loud banging noise that seams to be coming from the area where the torque converter is. I suspect loose TC bolts or lose or cracked flex plate. Now I need to figure out how to drop the AT tranny. Since this is a completely different subject I am going to start a new post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't drop the transmission yet! Remove the starter and you'll have access to the flex plate and torque converter bolts. With the transmission in neutral you'll be able to spin the torque converter and feel if the bolts are good and tight. There are four. It's a tight fit, but that's the only way to get access to the bolts. I would make sure those are tight and you don't see anything wrong with the flex plate before going through the trouble of removing the transmission as it is a major pain in the ass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't drop the transmission yet! Remove the starter and you'll have access to the flex plate and torque converter bolts. With the transmission in neutral you'll be able to spin the torque converter and feel if the bolts are good and tight. There are four. It's a tight fit, but that's the only way to get access to the bolts. I would make sure those are tight and you don't see anything wrong with the flex plate before going through the trouble of removing the transmission as it is a major pain in the ass.

Is it actually possible to tighten the bolts if they are loose through the starter hole, or do you mean just to inspect? I'm assuming the inspection is all "feel" and not sight, right?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...