Help ! 94 Pathy Engine Re & Re ( Almost ! )

[sprinthead]

OMG !! Anybody got any tricks or ideas on how in the world to get the dam engine OUT ???!!! I've gotten to the point where the engine is on the cherry picker and split from the bellhousing ( manual trans truck ... ), but the freakin oil pan wont clear the front diff !! I've read my stupid dam Haynes manual about 20 times trying figure out all the subtleties of getting it to the point where it WILL come out ! In the Haynes manual they talk about undoing 4 bolts that hold the diff to the crossmember and just letting it rest on it .... I'm guessing ( since its SO vague ... ) they are referring to the two mounts that attach the diff to * A * crossmember just forward of the diff !! Only other thing I can see doing is takin out the 2 bolts that hold the SECOND crossmember to the frame as this appears to have 3 bolts that hold the pinnion end of the diff to this crossmember !! The FSM says ya gotta take out the drivers side cv axle , but this is kinda vague too !! And why the hell do ya need to pull the cv axle to change the engine out !! What in the world am I missing here that someones's gonna enlighten me to so I can feel like a real IDIOT !! Thanks in advance for any learned and experienced help !!

 

>> Well .... downloaded the FSM from a link posted here .... and OMG !! This looks like its gonna get REAL ugly !! Looks like I'm droppin the frikken front diff !!! Oh Yeah !!

Edited May 25, 2010 by sprinthead

[Precise1]

Yes, most people do this, although there are a few who claim not to. I haven't done the work myself yet so I don't know first hand...

 

B

[Kingman]

The easiest way is to drop the front diff. A long extension to get to the diff mounting bolts through the engine bay seems to work the best and helps with saving your hands.

[sprinthead]

The easiest way is to drop the front diff. A long extension to get to the diff mounting bolts through the engine bay seems to work the best and helps with saving your hands.

 

Thanks for the insight ! Yesterday when I was under the truck ( trucks in my case !! heh ! ), I noticed that the forward crossmember that has the 2 mounts that are on the frontside of the diff, is attached with 2 bolts on each end. These bolts are nutted on the frontside of the crossmember, thus leaving the bolts to come thru from back to front. On either side, one of each of these bolts are readily removeable, but the other ones, I believe upper outer ones, look as tho they will not be easily removed cuz of the control arm being slightly in the way ! My thots on getting the diff down ( and or OUT ) are this; undo both forward mounts on front crossmember, leaving the front crossmember still in vehicle, undo both cv axles on the inboard ends but leave them in the spindles, remove the front driveshaft, undo the vent tube, remove the bolts on either end that hold the diffs rear crossmember, and I *think* I should be good to go ! Am I right, wrong or totally out 2 lunch !!

 

After 2 days solid workin on the ground ... motivation to get back under it again right away is almost non existant ! My 47 y/o bod is killin me ! LOL !! Any help is most certainly appreciated !! Thanks !

Edited May 25, 2010 by sprinthead

[Kingman]

I had one hell of a time getting my diff out on my old Pathfinder. I suggest PULLING on the wrenches, not pushing. I made that mistake and the head of a bolt stripped out and I gouged the back of my hand into the frame rail or something. I had no feeling in that hand for 2 weeks. It wasn't pretty. I'm also fairly sure Nissan had some 700LB sumo wrestlers torque the bolts...

[sprinthead]

I had one hell of a time getting my diff out on my old Pathfinder. I suggest PULLING on the wrenches, not pushing. I made that mistake and the head of a bolt stripped out and I gouged the back of my hand into the frame rail or something. I had no feeling in that hand for 2 weeks. It wasn't pretty. I'm also fairly sure Nissan had some 700LB sumo wrestlers torque the bolts...

 

LOL !! I hear ya on that one ! I learned that trick many years ago ( altho pulling I once cracked myself in the jaw with a 1/2" breaker bar !! ) ... has saved me from many a busted knuckle !!

 

What's your thots on what I'm suggesting tho ?? Does it sound like it would work ???

[Kingman]

It sounds like how I remember doing it. Give it a shot. If it doesn't work you can always put the bolts back and try something else.

 

The diff can be a pain to line back up though when reinstalling, but it's doable.

 

 

[sprinthead]

It sounds like how I remember doing it. Give it a shot. If it doesn't work you can always put the bolts back and try something else.

 

The diff can be a pain to line back up though when reinstalling, but it's doable.

 

Well ... I think that will be my plan of attack ! I already have the 2 front diff mounts unbolted from the crossmember, so its *just* ( HA ! ) a matter of undoing the inboard cv joints at the flanges ... I think I will start with the drivers side first cuz I've seen mentioned you hadda pop that one out to pull the engine, so why pull both if ya dont need to , pull the front driveshaft , undo the 3 bolts holding the diff to the rear crossmember and see if that works, if not ... I go further and drop the rear diff crossmember and right side cv joint at the flange ! Will post what works ( since I'm figuring out what DOESN'T !! )