swapdip Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 (edited) Hey guys if you have a minute, check out the video I made on how I replaced my timing belt: A few questions for those who have been here before: After doing this process I notice that my truck has a much more "throaty" sound to it, anyone else find that to be true? My dad explained that now that the valves are controlled by a properly tight belt they are opening and closing more precisely, and the sound is actually how the truck ought to sound...anyways just wanted to confirm that. Also, I know the ecu controls timing a little, do I need to get a timing light and adjust it myself as well? The truck idled a little erratically at first, but after about 2 mins it smoothed out and idled great, although there is a slight reduction in power while driving. Anyways my neighbor on the left says to get a light and time it, my neighbor on the right says don't mess with it just drive it at highway speeds for a while and the computer will work itself out, whats the right thing to do? Thanks, and I hope my video encourages anyone who has never done this before to attempt it for themselves. -Max UPDATE: That loss of power has been attributed to an improperly attached vacuum line, now the truck runs perfect! Edited May 7, 2010 by swapdip 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 On MPFI engines, you set a base timing of 15 degrees at 800 RPM. Then it is constantly advanced/retarded by the ECU and knock sensor so the timing curve stays the same throughout the RPM range. On TBI engines, the timing curve changes with RPM as there is little to no ECU interference with it. What you set it at is what you get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 If a new properly tensioned belt changed the sound of your truck, the old one must habe been pretty bad!! Thankis for the video, I'll check it out when I get home. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 LOL loved the videos I never could figure out how to use that puller tool... ended up using 2 pry bars and bent my lower cover a little bit... lesson learned: don't use pry bars to get the balancer off xD nothing my trusty hammer couldn't fix though ^_^ and just checking -- is it 41 teeth, or 41 'wells' in between cam markers O.O the little piece of paper that came with my napa belt few weeks ago told me 40 teeth I'm just curious, because I dont really fell like taking the whole deal apart again if I don't have too XD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swapdip Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 LOL loved the videos I never could figure out how to use that puller tool... ended up using 2 pry bars and bent my lower cover a little bit... lesson learned: don't use pry bars to get the balancer off xD nothing my trusty hammer couldn't fix though ^_^ and just checking -- is it 41 teeth, or 41 'wells' in between cam markers O.O the little piece of paper that came with my napa belt few weeks ago told me 40 teeth I'm just curious, because I dont really fell like taking the whole deal apart again if I don't have too XD Glad you liked them, I do aim to please. I marked mine 41 wells, inclusive of the two that cover the timing marks on both cam sprockets. That probably equates to 40 teeth... doesn't really matter, my truck runs well, your truck runs well, we are probably talking about the same specs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manifesto Posted May 3, 2010 Share Posted May 3, 2010 well... actually my truck sounds like a tractor O.o but I discovered that the spark plug on cylinder 5 isn't firing, after checking the cap and rotor and both of those looking good, I'm going to pick up some plugs and wires today haha I'll be fashioning some tools like you did in your video for that job... hope you didn't patent them yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swapdip Posted May 3, 2010 Author Share Posted May 3, 2010 I'm going to pick up some plugs and wires today haha I'll be fashioning some tools like you did in your video for that job... hope you didn't patent them yet We can go halves on the distribution rights.... BTW try out that trick with the transmission hose, it has helped me out a ton and made getting in those back plugs so much easier. Good luck on the repairs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Just watched the video's and I'll tell you that's exactly the same laugh I had when I finished mine the very first time too. Great job and great video's. You're gonna have to leave those up forever now because those are a great reference material. officially..... *Bookmarked* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swapdip Posted May 4, 2010 Author Share Posted May 4, 2010 Cool that was exactly my intention with this video, I know I didn't do everything orthodox but it worked out so hopefully some other people can find a way to use the experience. BTW, if you ever wanted to know how to synchronize the carbs on a motorcycle, or appraise the condition of an old bike, or make compost in your backyard, or disassemble and clean motorcycle carbs, I have videos for all of those too on youtube. And more to come, yes many more to come. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 Ok, I watched it and there went 15 minutes of my life... I'm pretty sure the spec for the cam timing is 41 belt teeth between timing mark to timing mark as they are on the pulley teeth... Anti-seize on the spark plugs is generally a good idea, and the radiator hose bit is a good trick. I have a unit that is like a spark plug boot molded on/around a knurled aluminum rod so sorry, it's already been made and patented. Nice video though, and I appreciate the dry humor. It'll help a lot of people see what they are (or aren't) getting into. Thanks and keep up the good work. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsamuels Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 Great video !! especially the laugh at the end ... I feel like that after I work on mine with no spare parts left over at the end !! Couple of questions for ya - BTW: Love the rubber hose trick for that #6 plug but don't you have that little pouch under the back seat that has a couple of tools just for getting them bad boys out ? Kingman wrote about the differences in timing on MPFI and TBI engines ... How do I know which one I have in my 98 3.3L ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 5, 2010 Share Posted May 5, 2010 You have MPFI In North American the TBI became extinct in 1990. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swapdip Posted May 5, 2010 Author Share Posted May 5, 2010 Great video !! especially the laugh at the end ... I feel like that after I work on mine with no spare parts left over at the end !! Couple of questions for ya - BTW: Love the rubber hose trick for that #6 plug but don't you have that little pouch under the back seat that has a couple of tools just for getting them bad boys out ? Kingman wrote about the differences in timing on MPFI and TBI engines ... How do I know which one I have in my 98 3.3L ? Yeah you have fuel injection... so I guess like me you won't need to time your truck after timing belt changes, something I just learned actually. Also yes I do have the spark plug puller, however I ruined it last month while using it as a breaker bar. It is still employed as a breaker bar, and one time as an aggressive dog deterrent, however as a spark puller it has passed its usefulness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Just now had a chance to sit down and watch the videos. Good work man. I noticed you had a Maxima alternator, did you get that from NAPA? I ask because when you fired the beast up your voltage gauge was at 12V, do you have to rev it to a certain RPM to "turn on" the alternator so it charges at 14V? Mine doesn't turn on until 3300-3700 RPM but works fine once it's on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I'm going to go ahead and move this into the How To section now... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swapdip Posted May 6, 2010 Author Share Posted May 6, 2010 Just now had a chance to sit down and watch the videos. Good work man. I noticed you had a Maxima alternator, did you get that from NAPA? I ask because when you fired the beast up your voltage gauge was at 12V, do you have to rev it to a certain RPM to "turn on" the alternator so it charges at 14V? Mine doesn't turn on until 3300-3700 RPM but works fine once it's on. Unfortunately I can't say from whence that alternator came, it was there when I bought the truck. But yes at idle speed it is at 12v or less, and doesn't produce anything until I get it going. If you want I can look into it, but more likely than not you are right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 Hmmm. I'm trying to figure out what kind of trend there is for Maxima alternators from NAPA turning on at different RPMs versus charging as soon as the engine is started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aranay Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 Just now had a chance to sit down and watch the videos. Good work man. I noticed you had a Maxima alternator, did you get that from NAPA? I ask because when you fired the beast up your voltage gauge was at 12V, do you have to rev it to a certain RPM to "turn on" the alternator so it charges at 14V? Mine doesn't turn on until 3300-3700 RPM but works fine once it's on. i have had the exact same thing with my old Jetta TD and I honestly have no idea if this applies here or not but hopefully it can. on my jetta there was a little wire that was wrapped up with the big main power wire and i discovered it had corroded off which made my alt and tach not work until i revved it up to about 3500 rpm then it would be fine until i shut the car off. so yes there should be a small signal wire to 'turn on' your alt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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