Kittamaru Posted December 12, 2009 Share Posted December 12, 2009 (edited) Ok, so, for summer break, I'm hoping to go thru and revamp my engine... I'd love to go so far as to port and polish, but I HIGHLY doubt I'd have the time, money, or ability to do that (or have it done). If possible, and needed, I'd like to hone the cylinder walls and such, and do the rockers, lifters, and camshaft if it needs it. What I want to know is this: Having already done the basic tune-up (Plugs, Wires, Dizzy Cap, Rotor, etc) what is the next step in an "advanced" engine tune up? Things I'm thinking so far: Lifters Rockers Camshaft All Gaskets (I know I have a few leaks here and there anyway, mostly valve cover) This is going to be a long thread as I find and compare information - I want to be 100% sure I'm going to be able to do this before I dig in... she IS my daily driver. This is also something I HAVE to be able to do within 2-3 days, as I dont' know how long I can get off work to do this I have some research to do, but any tips/tricks/updates you guys have, please let me know Also - how accurate/useful is a Haynes manual in this? Can I follow it step by step and not get lost, or will it skip steps / have bad pictures, etc? Edited December 12, 2009 by Kittamaru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted December 12, 2009 Author Share Posted December 12, 2009 Reserved - Links, Posts, Etc. Point 1 - Lifter Swap Thread: Ok so as promised, here are some pics of what you are getting into, and as prior mentioned, nothing too difficult, just make sure you have a torque wrench for putting it all back together. Ok step one is take the valve cover off, also refered to as the rocker cover. Once that is off, you will see something that looks like this. Keep in mind, this one has already been taken apart and I just pieced together for the pics, note the blue zip ties, we'll get to that later. Next step is to remove the bolts holding the rocker shafts in place. Now the bolts that hold them in place also hold the lifter block in place as well. For this step, just remove the rockers on their shafts. Make sure to take note of any special order to take these off. Haynes manual said to even take note of their specific location, as they are different lengths, but I found this to be false. The bolts were all the same length in mine. It should look like this: Ok now we come to the little blue zip ties. The lifter block should be loose now, but DO NOT pick it up. The lifters will fall out to who knows where and get mixed up, this is not good. Use the zip ties on the top shoulder to keep them from falling through. The FSM recomends using wire, hey, whatever you have around. Here's a close up, followed by the lifter block out and you can see them trying to fall out: Thats about it, not too much else, good luck and happy wrench turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Reserved for additional info Anyone have anything they could/would add? I finish my finals this week, so after that I can start my own research as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nismothunder Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Headers would be something that would help it out,get rid of the cast junk manifolds and replace them with better flowing stuff that they should of left the factory with... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 European cams will wake the engine up a whole hell of a lot. Also look into getting the heads machined, clean out the intake manifold, remove the little lips from the exhaust ports so it's flush with the manifolds/headers, remap the ECU, bore it over, etc. Oh wait, you wanted it done in 3 days... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Nah, doesn't have to be three days I'd like it done RIGHT is the thing, but I'd like to do as much as possible on my own Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I take back what I said about matching the head's exhaust port to the manifold/header, you actually want the head's ports to be slightly smaller than the manifold/header (about 1/16" to 1/8") for better exhaust flow. However on the intake side you want them to be the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kittamaru Posted December 17, 2009 Author Share Posted December 17, 2009 Oh? Did not know that... hm.... btw - nice quote under your avatar. Love that song... just wish some old man would leave me a million bucks... hell, I'd settle for a few hundred at this point 0o' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted December 17, 2009 Share Posted December 17, 2009 I also thought matched would be better, until I brought it up to my buddy Tim at his house when we were talking about me rebuilding my top end. For many years everyone would match the exhaust ports thinking "the flusher the better." However that wasn't the case. If they are completely flush, a small portion of the exhaust gasses tend to reverse flow and try and travel back in to the head, stopping some flow and hampering performance. The little "lip" that an unmatched set up creates gives the exhaust gasses a little swirl and sucks the rest of the exhaust out of the head. Interesting the things you learn from someone who's been a mechanic for 30+ years. It's a damn good song, and so true! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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