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SAS got a axle but need help.


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I have to agree that the D30 is a WAY under-rated axle. I've seen guys run hard with 35"s on them for several seasons with no breakage (open diff). As noted, the D44 is a better choice, but if a guy had a D30 sitting in front of him it would potentially be an axle worth building.

 

 

I agree wholeheartedly with both of these posts. The Cherokee rear was most commonly the Dana "turdy-five", which is the worst axle in the history of Jeeps. The front, on the other hand, is a high pinion (reverse rotation) Dana 30. This is a VERY strong axle. In fact, it is comparable to the D-44 in many ways (including being able to get 30-spline shafts and lockers) and contains many of the same parts as on the TJ Dana 44. It uses a unit hub, so no matter what you break, the wheels stay attached, as it is held in place by a large 36mm nut to the unit hub. I have a Cherokee with a Dana 30 front and I run 35's with ARB air lockers. This year I wheeled the Rubicon, the High Lakes Basin, as well as Fordyce (without a doubt the toughest trail in northern CA...Far tougher than the Rubicon). I don't take it easy on the rig and have broken LOTS of parts, but never the Dana 30.

 

If you have a 44 lying around that doesn't require the work and expense of narrowing it, use it. If not, the Dana 30 is a great choice. In fact, if you use chromoly and 30-splines, it will take 37's. I am currently installing gears and lockers into a rear Dana 44 and a front Dana 30 for my son's Jeep YJ and plan to put it on 37's. The only negative about the 30 is, like mentioned before, converting it to manual hubs is VERY expensive. The unit hubs can give up sometimes, but they rarely fail completely. They tend to get a little slop in them and you notice it at full turn and replace them at the tune of $120 each. I've replaced both on the Cherokee, but only after years of abuse and neither ever left me stranded. The Ford Super-Duty trucks use unit bearings on the front and those are massive vehicles. The D-30 hubs should withstand the Pathfinder without much trouble.

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Dana 44 is fine until you shear the spindle from seized bearings, and the wheel falls off (ITS CALLED MAINTENANCE PEOPLE!!!)! Seen that too! But the point is that the 30 would suffice if it's all you can get, however, you have to run the smaller bolt pattern which sucks!! There are about 4 waggy front axles in the TN craigslist and a few complete waggys for under a grand!! So the waggy axle is not hard to find! But watch out, only get the 4-door axle as it is the same width, all of the others are wider!!! By the way was it the stub breaking or was it the fact that the nut had not been pinned? I have a shop and have seen that way too often!

Edited by 885SPD
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Dana 44 is fine until you shear the spindle from seized bearings, and the wheel falls off (ITS CALLED MAINTENANCE PEOPLE!!!)! Seen that too! But the point is that the 30 would suffice if it's all you can get, however, you have to run the smaller bolt pattern which sucks!! There are about 4 waggy front axles in the TN craigslist and a few complete waggys for under a grand!! So the waggy axle is not hard to find! But watch out, only get the 4-door axle as it is the same width, all of the others are wider!!! By the way was it the stub breaking or was it the fact that the nut had not been pinned? I have a shop and have seen that way too often!

 

 

stub shaft breaking. seen it several times.

 

if somebody doesn't do maint. on their 44, well thats dumb.. but a broken stub shaft causeing teh wheel to fall off due to over stress, thats poor design.

 

why do you think all the jeep guys (less weight equal power) change them out? thats why you can find the D30 so cheap.. cause nobody wants them.

 

can you wheel it.. yes.

you can polish a turd, but its still a turd.

even a 44 is boarderline.

I broke an inner shaft on its shake down run several years ago.

broke another one 6 months later

broke an alloy after that.

 

yes i'm locked in the front

Edited by 87pathy
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