Transmission pros please help?

[BigEdge02]

Hey All,

 

I've been having some tranny problems lately and despite trying all the "basic" fixes, I can't get it taken care of.

 

Within the first 3 to 5 min. of driving is when all the issues occur....When I start er up after sitting for awhile (like overnight), it starts fine in Park, but when I put it in gear (D or R), sometimes it stalls right away, sometimes its fine. If I get going, and accelerate, it always stays in 1st gear (doesnt shift at all regardless of lifting off the pedal, or manually shifting it into other gear positions) and when I come to a stop it shudders then stalls and then I start the process over again. No check engine light/codes come up at all. Like I said though, this ONLY occurs within the first 3 to 5 min. of driving, after its warmed up, it drives like it was brand new, no issues at all....I'm stumped!

 

I've tried a basic tranny fliud/filter change....nothin. I tried a fluid flush....nothin. I even tried a transmission additive on a whim...nothin. I didn't see any metal chunks in the fluid/pan, but there were some small bits (like about half the size of a BB) and the usual metal filings on the magnet. So all the "basic" stuff has been tried, any ideas what I should try next? Anybody experience anything like this ever? I'd like to have a good idea of what might be going on before I take it in to a repair shop and get a $2000 bill for a new tranny I might not have needed.

 

Its a '99 R50, AT, 4x4, 157,000 miles

 

Thanks for any help you can offer!

[180sx]

a peice half the size of a BB is still a big piece coming from the tranny. When you park it, do you use the E-brake? Or do you just stick it in park and leave it at that?

[BigEdge02]

a peice half the size of a BB is still a big piece coming from the tranny. When you park it, do you use the E-brake? Or do you just stick it in park and leave it at that?

 

I use the e-brake all the time pretty much, its a habit from driving my camaro which is manual.

[zbeck]

Sounds like your lock up solenoid is sticking. Nissan now calls it a "Torque converter clutch solenoid valve". When it is working, it allows the torque converter to slip when it is suppose to (coming to a stop, sitting in your driveway,etc) and then lock up the transmission to the engine at speed to improve gas mileage by bypassing the small amount of slip all torque converters have. When it is malfunctioning, it is pretty much like stalling a manual car by not using the clutch.

[Zibi]

^^^ sounds right, I was going to say sounds like clutching problem

[BigEdge02]

^^^ sounds right, I was going to say sounds like clutching problem

 

Thanks for all your help friends, and for writing back so quick!

 

The lock-up solenoid, aka:Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Valve (TCCSV) sticking sounds exactly like what might be causing the issue. I guess as the tranny heats up the solenoid probably becomes "un-stuck" since it drive fine when its warmed up.

 

So now for the dirty part....Is this TCCSV something that can be replaced in the average home mechanics driveway, or should I not even ask how to do it and just bite the bullet and take er in to a shop?

[zbeck]

So now for the dirty part....Is this TCCSV something that can be replaced in the average home mechanics driveway, or should I not even ask how to do it and just bite the bullet and take er in to a shop?

There is a lot you can check without going into the transmission. I would say it is more toward the advanced end of the scale if you end up replacing it. If you have opened up anything like an engine and replaced something inside, youll be ok, but if brake pad changes scare you, this should not be the next step in your learning curve. I got curious and the part is expensive - $400ish list price.

 

If you look at AT-132 in the Factory Service Manual, there is a long guide for troubleshooting it. The AT section is huge, but don't let it freak you out. AT-226 shows how to take out what you need (notice it is 'on vehicle service' so dont let the dealer tell you they have to remove the transmission). AT-254 shows the break down of the assembly holding the solenoid. Your potential problem is right no top and comes off first, so don't be scared of all the other parts. It is very complicated inside there, but if you focus on what you need, its not difficult. Even if you take it to the dealer it is worth looking over the book, just to see what they will be discussing with you (or lying about).

 

Other options

Pray its the wiring on the outside

Try swapping computers with someone to make sure that isn't the problem

An entire AT is $100 from the junkyard here... yes its a pain to replace, but gives you time to play with the bad transmission/source a cheaper part

Good time for a MT swap

Disable the solenoid the next time it is working correctly in the off position and live with MIL light

Wash with gas, dry with match (yeah I really don't like going to the dealer)

 

Personally, I would go to the junkyard and find a severely wrecked pathfinder (that way you know it probably isnt in the junkyard for a bad transmission) and take that transmission... last time I got an engine I left the trans on there and they gave it to me for $50; you could go hog wild getting spares and never get close to what you would waste at the stealership.

[BigEdge02]

Thanks for all the info zbeck!!

 

I've dropped and replaced a few transmissions before so I'm somewhat familiar with that process, so I might take the full replacement route especially if thats the cheaper way to go. I'll probably still venture inside the "broken" tranny though once its off to get an idea of whats going on in there. Thanks for all the references to the manual too, that'll definitely come in handy!

 

Thanks for all the posts everyone....wish me luck!

[Zibi]

Take a couple pictures of the trans swap if it's what you end up doing...I'm probably going to be going the same route in a year or two, mine is slowly dying.