Spolar93 Posted June 20, 2007 Share Posted June 20, 2007 can anyone tell me where/how the soft and hard lines disconnect from each other? i pulled the clip, but just cant figure it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryfry Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 If you are refering to the front flex lines, the clip you pulled is the retainer that holds the hose to the bracket, right where the hard line screws into the hose. Put that back into place; it will help hold the hose while you work. There should be a hex head fitting on the end of the hard line where it screws into the hose. There also should be a hex portion or two flat spots opposing each other on the hose near where the hard line screws in, just under where the clip went. An open end wrench should be used to hold the hose, and a line wrench or flare nut wrench should be used to break the nut loose. Don't use an open ended wrench on the line nut!!!!!!!!! These are notoriously hard to loosen up and if you try it with an open wrench, you will round off the nut. A line wrench is five sided so you can slip it over the line and grab the nut almost fully around. This is also critical upon reinstalling so a tight seal can be achieved. Apply liberal amounts of PB B'laster or some other decent rust penetrant (Liquid Wrench, Cyclo Breakaway) every day for a few days. This will help the loosening process. After loosening the nut, then you can pull the clip to release the hose from the bracket. Then you can remove the banjo bolt on the caliper an voila! You've done it! Don't forget to use new copper washers when rebolting it to the caliper. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spolar93 Posted June 21, 2007 Author Share Posted June 21, 2007 damnit shouldve waited hahha. used a 10mm on the passenger side, worked fine after pbing it. drivers side.....rounded that sob. looks like ill be cutting off that fitting and reflaring the end. used teflon tape on the new fitting and it was on there pretty snug, so im hoping no leaks. btw, this was for an sas. 24" ss lines are loooooooooooooong...thanks for the help anyways! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryfry Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 You probably shouldn't have used the teflon tape. The brake fluid will eat right through that stuff, and besides, the seal is in the flared part of the fitting, not the threads. Just hope none of the tape gets loose in the system and clogs up a small port in the ABS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted June 21, 2007 Share Posted June 21, 2007 No teflon needed on brake fittings. The seal is formed at the flare itself. Brake fluid pressures are on the order of 1000's of PSI, so no form of thread sealant would be adequate to seal a leaky flare connection. Generally recommended that you tighten, loosen, and re-tighten new lines a couple times so the flare conforms well to provide perfect seal from the get go. You are using flare nut wrenches, right? Open end wrenches will round off 95% of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spolar93 Posted June 24, 2007 Author Share Posted June 24, 2007 (edited) hahaha yes, i now own a 10mm flare wrench. this was my first ever brake job, so i never knew what i needed in the first place. however, i now know how to use a double flare tool, as i had to reflare that driver side brake line. i never want to do that again.... check my build thread for pictures Edited June 24, 2007 by Spolar93 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dagwoodzz Posted June 24, 2007 Share Posted June 24, 2007 Me joined the rounded off 10mm club today too. Replacing the master cylinder. Ended up cutting them off w/ the sawsall at the master cylinder and re-flaring. PITA, the right tools would have helped. hahaha yes, i now own a 10mm flare wrench I'm a slow learner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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