Ball Joint Question

[barthel]

Well, my front end mods have taken a turn for the worst. New UCA's are in, that's about the only thing that's gone well. I won't bore you with the gory details (that will come later).

 

I've buttoned most everything back up so that I can have my pathy towed to my local mechanic to replace the ball joints and TRE's. On the passenger side, the ball joint is gone and the taper is stuck in the hole. After a 2 weeks of screwing with it, it's time to call in the professionals.

 

My question is this. What potential damage can be done by putting the tire back on the passenger side so it can be pushed 20 feet to the street, so that it can be towed. I would never think of driving it in it's condition, but would prefer to not have to go buy a tire dolly if it's not totally necessary.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

:bow:

[govols74n]

It should be fine, if its the upper ball joint. Is it completely out? as long as the LCA is hooked up and you haven't disconnected the torsion rods, go 4 it. You try a ball joint puller? Is it the small bolts that are stuck on the uca/Ball joint or what?

Edited April 8, 2007 by govols74n

[Simon]

for that distance, get a ratchet strap, and just try to secure the UCA to the knuckle. You'd be surprised how strong they are. People have used them to secure broken engine mounts. :contract:

[barthel]

You try a ball joint puller? Is it the small bolts that are stuck on the uca/Ball joint or what?

 

I tried every kind of puller they make. Pickle fork, C-clamp press, I drilled down through the taper and tried to twist it out, it's just not coming out. It's the taper of the ball joint that is stuck in the knuckle. Through beating on it and cutting it, the top of the ball joint came off and just lef the taper in the hole.

 

LCA and lower ball joint are still intact, as well as the t-bars and tie rods.

 

I'll try the strap Simon, thanks!

[Guest SuperSon]

Bart have you tried pulling the whole knuckle out and see if you can get your air chisel with a point bit at the tip of that flared bolt where the nut goes .I know theres like a dimple in the center of that balljoint bolt where you can set the tip of the air chisel and give it a few minutes of chiseling.

 

or you can put it on a vice while somebody is turning the bolt on the vice put a torch to it.

 

I just hate taking my rig to a mechanic just like with the rest here coz theres times that theyd screw something up in the process of doing it and make you pay for it.No offense to some mechanics here that does it for a living.

[barthel]

SS,

 

Yes, I have. Unfortunately what you are seeing is the last act of a desperate man.

 

When I figured I couldn't get the taper out, I was just going to take the whole knuckle off and go at it that way. But, I'm having the same problem with the outer tie rod end and lower ball joint, they just ain't gonna move. So, short of taking out the grinder and just doing some arbitrary cutting (don't think it didn't cross my mind) there's no way the knuckles coming off. I've even managed to get a C clamp press on it and applied about a ton and a half of pressure. No go.

 

I agree about having someone else work on my rig, but there comes a time every now and again when i know I'm beat, and this is it. I've been F-ing around with this damn thing for 2 weeks now and have gotten nowhere.

 

At this point, I guess I just don't see too many alternatives, and I'm anxious to get my rig back on (and off) the road.

[Guest SuperSon]

Hope they can get it out fast considering all the tools they have and some trick up their sleeves.

 

Mind asking them what trick theyre going to use to get that out of there and share it with us and for future reference

 

 

One last idea (I just dont feel like giving up now ) Isnt the tie rod screwed on to the link with that adjuster? Can that adjuster be turned all the way that the TRE would come off of it? If it does you got it made.Take off the strut rod and a few bolts that lower arm is out.Im guessing you already tried to take off the TRE on the link end also

 

Edited April 9, 2007 by SuperSon

[89_trailboss]

I would cut the lower balljoint and TRE with a sawzall and then bring that to a shop to have them press the remains out.

[89_trailboss]

hold it, do what super said. undo the TRE from the adjuster and then just unbolt the lowerball joint.

[Guest SuperSon]

Together we can figure out a way to take that sucker out of there

 

Hope barts sawzall isnt within his reach I got the thinking that the lower balljoint is stuck too

[barthel]

Yes, sawzall is close by and has a nice shiny new metal blade.

 

I tried unscrewing the TRE but coulnd't get the wheek to turn enough to get it out. It's threaded most of the way in, so I had 2 inches to try to unthread. I also cranked it in on the other side just to try to gain extra space.

 

My concern is, that I cut the dam things out and I'm still going to be left with the same problem, tapers stuck in the hole. The TRE wouldn't budge, nor would the lower ball joint. I didn't even consider screwing with the other side. I got the stock UCA's out and put the new ones in, did a few of the things I wanted to in there, but I'm truly at the end of my rope with this ball joint thing.

 

I'm not a spaz, I turn a pretty fair wrench and most often know what I'm doing. But this one's got me stumped.

[Guest SuperSon]

hmmm.. One last idea. Crank the adjuster to where the bolts are almost out then cut iit dead center on the adjuster so you dont cut into the TRE. I can pick up a set of adjuster at the local JY here. Once you get that knuckle out im sure that stuck taper end will pop out on the vise.The lower ball joint will unscrew from the lower uca right? and not the taper part again on the lower knuckle.

 

Frustration almost won over me when I stripped my spindle bolts and didnt even think about trying another bolt till I talked to Red and Martin.

 

 

 

Hold on.If the lower balljoint is out of the lower uca that means its going to move freely and give you plenty of room for that adjuster to be cranked all the way till the TRE pops out.The reason from what i understand why it wont unscrew all the way out is because its pushing out against the knuckle arm.If the lower baaljoint doesnt want to come out off the knuckle either just take out the 4 bolts holding it to the uca and if that doesnt want to come out either cut it.Youre going to replace it anyway or if youre not planning on it you might as well since you have it all apart now.

Edited April 9, 2007 by SuperSon