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Lock Right Locker


Guest 95PathDN
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Guest 95PathDN

Ok, I swear this will be the last post about my locker before I put it in on Sunday. I have someone with lots of knowledge lined up to help out. But I was wondering if anyone has any last minute advice, things not to do, things to do for the install? Want this to go as smooth as possible... :D

 

and on the rear diff fluid is it about 5 quarts of just standard fluid? i know lsd requires different fluid, but locker is just like the standard open diff fluid, right?

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They might make the No-Slip, but I dunno if they make one for the H233B rear diff, Dieselboy.

 

Drain the gear oil out of the rear diff first. ;)

 

You have to unbolt the e-brake cables AND the brake lines to get the axles out far enough to remove the centersection. I suggest removing the axles completely so they don't rest on the axle seals and possibly dent the seals, which would make them leak onto your rear brakes.

 

If your axle bearings are starting to get wobbly, take both axles to a machine shop and get new bearings installed. How many times do you want to have to remove those things? ;) Replace the axle seals too, they're only like $7 each. The bearings are a press-fit and aren't removeable by hand.

 

Pinch off the rear rubber brake hose with some vice-grips, then unscrew the brake lines from the brakes. Use a flare nut wrench instead of a standard wrench or pliers, unless you want to replace your brake hardlines...

 

When you unbolt the rear driveshaft, ziptie it up to one of the rear upper control arms so you don't have to take it off completely and have a bunch of oil drain out of the t-case in your driveway or garage floor.

 

The centersection is HEAVY. VERY HEAVY. I AM NOT KIDDING HERE.

 

When unbolting the carrier case bolts, use a wrench on one bolt to hold the case in place and another wrench on the next bolt over to break them loose without having to put the whole thing into a vise. A coffee can works OK for a holding platform. When you get to the last bolt, just re-tighten the one next to it a bit, as long as it's not cranked too tight you'll still be able to take it back out OK.

 

Definitely punch-mark the bearing preload adjusters and put them back together the same way with the marks matching. Make sure you don't try to put them back together with the adjusters one thread off each, ie, one screwed in one thread too far and one screwed out one thread too far. The marks will still match, but the bearing caps will not want to go on, and putting it back together wrong will almost certainly screw something up.

 

You can use RTV silicone as a centersection gasket. Works great. I used the black stuff. Just apply it to the housing with a fingertip (go around all the bolt holes) and let it set for 15 minutes or so before you put the centersection in, cause that thing's HEAVY and it'll be kinda awkward to position when you're under the Pathy.

 

Standard GL-5 75W-90 or 80W-90 is fine to use. If you want to use a LSD additive, go ahead. I hear it makes the locker a bit quieter around corners.

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Guest 95PathDN

88, thanks for all the advice--it was very useful. the third member was VERY HEAVY and we punch-marked EVERYTHING :D took us 5hours start to finish. didn't have a single problem (imagine a car project where nothing goes wrong, it was amazing) we just took our time.

 

took it on the freeway and some dirtroads to peel out (to see how it handled of course :P ) didn't get a chance to wheel it yet. next weekend i am going to a park. i also took off the rear sway bar while we were down there. can't tell much of a difference, so will probably just leave it off.

 

the guy who helped me was very nice and will be doing a writeup for his offroad page. he'll post all the pics and as soon as it's done, i'll put a link to his page. it'll have the Nissan lock right writeup and then his page is really cool as well. hopefully within a few days.

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