jjeffri

It's a do-able job in the garage/driveway. The only special tool I had was a large (~8") C-clamp to compress the calipers and remove the pads. I bought a spray can of the brake squeal reducer, basically a sticky blue substance that supposedly prohibits some vibrations and brake noise; I also pretty much used a whole can of brake parts cleaner. -J

Thermostat is a PITA to get to though.

I just changed my waterpump. When it went it went completely and also leaked coolant; it however, didn't make any noise. If you aren't noticing any leaks anywhere, then I would suspect the thermostat isn't opening at the right temperature or at all. Is it possible that something, like a chunk of sealant or something, is blocking the thermostat and preventing either flow or function?

I am assuming that the MAF plug is located on the intake side of the air filter...on my 96 that plug has three wires. From left to right when looking down at the plug they are... 1)White 2)Black 3)Black w/white stripe The 4th hole on the plug is unoccupied. Hope this helps. -J

I will be doing as much of my own work as I can, in this case it was mostly loosening bolts, pulling things off, putting things back, and tightening bolts. My next project will be my valve cover gaskets, and when the time comes a suspension lift and maybe some new bushings. I do have little squeek in one of my belts when I start the car now. It sounds like it might be from the power steering belt, and that is the only pulley that I actually adjusted (I just removed the brackets for the upper idler and the tensioner, which incidentally doesn't move because the last person (who wasn't me) bent the idler screw). So, does the belt usually squeek and make noise when the belt is too tight or too loose? -J

My 96 pathy makes a rattling noise at a couple of key RPM's, I think at about idle and 2500. I found a bracket, right beneath the front passenger door, in the exhaust line that was broken. I had a buddy rev the engine until the rattle and then I pressed around the exhaust with my shoe until the vibrations were dampened, I then noticed the cracked bracket. I haven't replaced it yet, but it is not a serious issue, just an annoyance.

I say fix the brakes yourself. You can buy the pads for under $60 at a parts store and with a large C-clamp (~8") you can compress the caliper and replace the pads in under an hour. It is a pretty easy job and would save you over $200!

I finally finished the waterpump change. It looks like it worked. I drove the pathy around for about 20 minutes and the temp. gauge stayed at about 40% once it warmed to that point. I think that this means that the thermostat is working (I replaced that while I was in there...$20 part) as well as the waterpump. To Igranch...thanks for the tip on the rope in cylinder#1. And to all others, thanks for the suggestions on changing the timing belts, I didn't realize that you actually had to remove the belt to change the waterpump and thanks for all of your help! NPORA Rules! -J

I finally got the bolt out of the crankshaft pulley. Using Igranch's technique, (a poly rope inserted into the #1 cylinder) the force of gravity, and a little bit of contorting and pulling as I wedged myself into the engine compartment, that bolt broke loose, thanks for all of your advice and help. I need to get the pulley off now, so I will get a loaner puller from the auto parts store tomorrow. I tried to pull it with a screwdriver as a prybar, but to no avail.

Alright guys...I borrowed a strap wrench from a buddy, but I was unsuccesful. I tightened the strap down and then braced the strap wrench against a block of wood. I then pushed with all my might and weight on the end of the breaker bar (it is 14"); now I way 180 lbs. and I was pushing on the end of a 14" breaker bar, which should give me around 180 ft.lbs. of torque on the end of that bolt. The Haynes manual says it should be tightened to about 112, I should be able to far exceed that, so I am assuming there is a little play in the strap wrench and the pulley is rotating inside the strap just enough to reduce my effectiveness. I have yet to try Igranch's suggestion with the rope, I need to go out to the Home Depot and buy a few lengths of rope, 1/4, 3/8 etc. and yank the spark plug Now my one question...this nut is not reverse threaded is it? My manual says nothing about that, which if true, I would consider a useful and necessary piece of information. Ohh and dgly, I did get the cover off with some "maneuvering" of the tube and timing belt cover, thanks! Now if I can just get this (insert own expletive) pulley off I might be able to progress.

Thanks for all the help guys! I think I will try the strap wrench first, I have a friend who has one of ample size. You have convinced me to change the timing belts while I am in there, but am having trouble removing the upper timing belt cover, because there is a steel tube in the way (maybe it is AC?) Does anyone have any suggestions or experience with this problem? -J

The bolts that secure the water pump to the block are hidden under the lower timing belt cover. The lower timing belt cover is held on by several bolts and the pulley as far as I can tell. I had to loosen the upper timing belt cover, but couldn't remove it because what appears to be an AC line is in the way, so that I can remove the lower cover. I am a little concerned about messing with the timing belt, it seems like I could easily mess that one up. I will look into how difficult it is from your suggestion. -J

I need to replace my water pump on my 96 pathy, it overheated on the freeway the other day and is spewing coolant. According to my Haynes manual, I need to remove the crankshaft pulley, presumable to remove the lower timing belt cover. After that I should have access to the water pump right? Now I have all of the belts off, how do I remove the crankshaft pulley? I have a 12" breaker bar with a 1-1/16" socket, which seems to fit the nut or bolt on the pulley. However, if I turn the bolt/nut the pulley (and presumably the crankshaft) turn also. Here is another question, since I am not changing the timing belts, I won't touch them, but do I need to worry about the crankshaft rotating? Thanks for any help/advice?

Thanks 88, I may end up cutting the hose, as that seems to be the easiest way unless I can find some long pliers to borrow. I like the idea of putting a longer loop of hose, I don't care how it looks, in fact you can't see the hose without removing some of the others anyway. If I get the plenum off I will take some pictures of the procedure. -J

I recently discovered my valve covers to be leaking oil at a reasonable rate. I decided it would be a good idea to replace the valve cover gaskets to alleviate this problem. I purchased the gaskets for about $20 and decided to do the job myself. The first step of the process is to remove the intake plenum from above the driver side engine, since the engine is a V-6 there are two gaskets for two covers and the intake plenum sits on top of the driver side cover. I removed the air intake hoses and while I was in there cleaned out the throttle body with some carb cleaner (as described elsewhere in this forum). I then began what proved to be the daunting task of removing the intake plenum. The plenum is bolted to the engine with 5 cap head screws right down the center of the engine and thus the passenger side of the plenum. It is also connected to a myriad of coolant hoses, air lines, and electrical lines. I removed the throttle cable and the cruise control cable (I also adjusted these two cables to remove some slack while I was in here). I removed all but one coolant hose which is located behind the plenum up against the rear of the engine compartment. I unfortunately couldn't loosen this hose. I managed to move the hose clip down a little bit, but not enough to clear the barb on the tube that the hose goes over. Therefore, I was unable to remove this hose and I was thus unable to remove the intake plenum, and thus could not get into the valve cover and thus couldn't change the gaskets, which was the whole point of my fruitless excercises (which incidentally caused me to miss some football). I did clean the intake gasket while I was in there, but I that doesn't really mean much. Does anyone have any experience with removing hard to get to hoses? Is there a special tool that I don't own and have never seen? I would really like to avoid the $200 that a mechanic would charge for this procedure if possible. I am considering cutting the hose to remove the plenum and then replacing the hose with a new one. It should be easier to install a new hose, and once the plenum is out of the way I can actually reach back and remove the old hose.

Fernando, I also have not found any Bilsteins for the R50 Pathfinder, I have a sneaky suspicion that they don't exist. KMGAR: What kind of shocks are you using with the AC 2" lift coils? I am thinking about getting those and installing them later, but I have read that you need to change out your front hubs (4WD, obviously) from the factory to manual hubs, is this true? How was the installation of the AC coils?

Thanks for the advice guys! I will look into the bushings. From what you are saying KYB struts make good sense, I will look into some of the recommended shocks and probably decide on price. -J

I need to replace the existing stock shocks and struts on my 96 Pathfinder. I do mostly highway driving, but when I do travel off-road I am usually going fast down a "washboard" road, occasionally driving over some big bumps but no real rock crawling. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good set of shocks and a good set of struts for my driving style? I would like to keep my options open for a suspension lift if possible, but the most important thing is to fix the ride quality now...when I have a load in the back end it just oscillates like mad! -J