edta1
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Posts posted by edta1
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You can buy the in-cabin remote for these shocks, I think the system is about $150. I don't need that since I don't won't be changing the settings that often.
Nice shocks! Does the remote adjust the height? or stiffness?
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WOW, that looks really good. How much did it cost? Was it easy? What problems did you encounter?
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Does urban offroad count? I'm in Chicago and there is nothing out here in terms of trails and such ( as far as I know). So I take my pathy through the winter snow and potholes. I jump parking lot curbs because I'm too lazy to drive around etc. etc.
If you know of a trail around here where, please do let me know.
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Just any silicone spray will work? Or does it have to say "anti-window-seizing-miracle-spray"
? Man...and here I thought I was going to have to replace the window seals on my pathy too. PHEW.... 
Thanks in advance.
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Is it ok to mix grades of oil? What about Synthetic with regular?
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Ok you don't have to take your doors apart there is a spray you can get from your dealership that you spray down beside your window this cleans the track.
That is all. No need to dismantle anything these get dirty & just needs the spray cleaning.
So far both winters since we had the Pathy this has happened, just spray & your all SET.
Sucks when your at TIM HORTONS drive through -30c and your window won't roll up until you ge home. Cold drive..
What is this magic spray called?
Yea it gets pretty annoying that everytime I go through a drive-thru window I open my door and not my driver side window.
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I don't have the space/bandwidth to keep such a project on my home machine, but I'm willing to write up/take pictures of my experiences to add to the common knowledge pool.
(my ulterior motive is to take business away from dealerships that charge >$90/hr labor, but pay line mechanics <$11/hr)
Thoughts?
-al
AMEN! I hope you do write up a good procedure to change the timing belt. I have about 30K before I have to start thinking about it but still, any little job that can be kept away from the $90/hour mechanics is a good thing. Thanks! :cool2:
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Herm (and all) .. I agree, don't think it's a grease issue .. design error if nothing else.
Shifter .. I can live with it. Just seems a little too prone given I did not think it was all that cold.
But the whine . you bet, big issue. The dealer supposedly replaced the bearings last month under warranty but the car gained a new vibration while running as well as the 'whining' sound. I told them I'm coming back. Does not look good.
Yup, It sounds like a design issue to me too. Like Herm said, the seals probably get stiff in the cold. Well that bites....I guess we'll just have to live with this problem then
...unless there is a way to replace the seals with aftermarket...ideas and suggestions? -
Ok EDTA.. what tires did you get that kept you firmly planted? Thanks for the reply ...
Sorry, I don't what tires I got. They were by Continental though.
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Hey Vengeful, So what broke by using an impact wrench? The oil pan was leaking?
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Yup...I get a lot of sliding of the postier too. It is a combination of both really car and tires I think. It is a rear wheel drive vehicle if you are not in 4wd. Since all the weight is in the front, there is a lot less friction (grip) for the tires in the back. There is a lot of snow where I live right now, so I'm finding myself shifting into 4wd a lot lately. At least my rear end is firmly planted
Before I got new tires, I was slipping everywhere even in rain. Now that I got new tires, my rear end doesn't slip anymore. Make sure your tires are M+S rated. Then again, my old tires were M+S rated and I was all over the road once it got wet. Hope it helps. -
HHmmm...Yea, that's what the dealer said. I took it there last year. And they said they had to clean out the gummy grease. Lighter grease you say? LIke what? All I have is disc/bearing grease at home. Can you recommend some for us?
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In cold weather, my power windows tend to seize a lot. As it gets colder, the window moves slower and slower. It has been pretty cold where I am and now the power windows don't work at all. I've been fighting this problem for since I got this Pathfinder. I've driving other cars in the past and they don't seize this badly. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to minimize this problem? Please advise. Thanks.
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Hello Precise1,
It cose me about $72 to do the repairs. It took about 2 days to do the job. It took a bit long because I ran into some problems. First, it took forever for me to figure out how to take the rotors off. The snap ring was hard as hell to take off at first. But once I broke down and got the right tool, it was a piece of cake. When I was putting the rotors back on, I didn't realize the axle will move. It moved enough so that I couldn't place the snap ring on. Then somehow my one of the screw holes on my caliper bracket stripped. So I had to takew it to the stealership to get them retapped (freebie).
Overall, it really wasn't that hard. Next time I think it'll take about 1.5 hours. No problem. This was definitely a DIY job and not worth the $400 the stealership was quoting. Thanks Precise1.
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I have almost 50K on my car now. And I've used it thrice. Once to replace a sensor (can't remember what it is called). The other to replace the belt pulley. Other than that, it has been all wear and tear on my car.
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HURRAY!! HURRAY!! I did it! I did it! I assembled the rest together last night.
Tested it and WOW! The car drive like new. Now I just have to get my wheels rebalanced and I'll be all set.
Thank you Precise1 and everyone else in the forum!!
Thank you!
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I used to play a lot of Raven Shield online.
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Hello Precise1,
I got the rotors off (the hang-up was the center cap. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to take it off or not). I got them turned. I'm I'm putting them back on. I got the left side done, no problem. But for some reason, the right side won't go on right. When everything sits perfect, a groove is supposed to show so I can snap the snap-ring in place. Something isn't going on straight or all the way in, because I don't see that groove. *sigh* Time to take it apart again. Good thing I have air tools. Or this job can really be a pain. I'll keep you posted. Thanks.
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bfh my friend...
hahahahahahathen you'll have a "washer with two phillips screws, then a nut and that's about it. when removing the locking hubs, make sure to keep the "breaks" in the same order they came out...
Where do I find this washer and 2 philips screws? I looked everywhere for bolts and nuts.
I really think I took every possible screw off already. Is it behind the "black cap" in the center (pardon my newb lingo but I have no idea what that thing is) of the hub? That is the only thing that I can't take off. How do I remove this?BTW - What is BFH?
Thanks in advance.
Yea I spoke with Pep Boys and they were going to turn my rotors for $8 a piece. AWESOME! Better than letting the dealer eat $140 per rotor. :oops:
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Hello,
I figured I'd have to remove all that before. I can't get the hub off either. I took the 6 bolts holding it in place off already. But that cap is held tight. I tried taking a flathead screwdriver to see if it will come loose....nope...it wouldn't budge. Do I have to take that black center cap off?
I have a manual but it doesn't mention anything about removing the hub cap etc. etc. in order to take the rotor off. It hints that once the caliper brackets come off, the hub and rotor will come off as one assembly. So I guess the manual I have is wrong.
First step I guess, How do you take that hub cap off?
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Ok. I'm trying to remove the disc. I took the wheel off. I took the calipers, pads and the caliper bracket off. I even removed the 6 nuts that attach the hub to the disc. But that darn disc won't come off. I mean it is as if I didn't remove anything. I looked inside out and it doesn't appear to have anything holding it in place. Am I missing something? Please help. Thanks.
:help: :help:
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Thanks for the tips and guidance, Precise. It doesn't sound as hard as the dealer made the job out to be. I'll let you know how it goes. I probably won't be able to get to it until this weekend though. Thanks again.
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Hello All,
I just came back from the dealer. Here's the list of things that need to be done:
Turn Rotors
Replace Front brake pads
repack front bearings
wheel balance
They want to charge me $400 to do the job. I want to do as much as I can to save $$$. I can replace the front pads no problem. I'm pretty sure I can repack the front bearings. As for the rotors, I don't know. They want to charge me $140 to turn each rotor. New ones cost about $86. So I want to just replace the rotors since it is cheaper anyways. The dealer says that even new rotors need to be turned. Is this true? Pep Boys says new rotors do not need to be turned. So who is right? I can replace the rotors, no prob. But if I have to turn them even if new...then forget it.
I can get the wheel balance done free from NTB.
So is the dealer right about turning new rotors? :confused:
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What do you mean "...doesn't directly address the issue"?
So is there a way for average joe to turn his rotors at home? With sand paper and a brillow pad maybe? Or does this have to be done with a machine shop?
Mysterious Rear Rattle
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
I get that too. I too have an 01 SE Pathfinder. It's pretty cold here too so it might be temperature related. I haven't noticed it the summer since I have the radio going pretty loud.
I checked visually on the outside without jacking the car up. I thought a rear shock snapped or something, but eveyrthing looks solid. I haven't had time to jack up my car and take a look underneath yet. Let me know what you find.