95Finder

Anyone...???

Whats up, I have a fuel leak and was wondering if anyone has had similar symptoms and what the fix is for it. I had noticed that the car smelled like gas. The gas seems like it might be leaking from the line that goes from the fill hole to the tank. The rear shock on the passenger side is completely covered with gas. Can I pull out the filler thing and inspect the line for cracks? If not then what is the best way to inspect the line? There is also a discolored line running right under the gas cap that runs down the outside of the body. I am thinking fuel is leaking down the inside of the fender wall and causing this. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I just replaced the front rotors on my 95 and it wasn't too bad. It just takes a little time. The first one took me about two hours and the second took probably 30 minutes since I learned from my mistakes on the first rotor. Definately buy the Chiltons or Haynes service manual though, it will pay for itself pretty quick. The tools you will need are a set of torx sockets(can't remember the exact size), Rachet and metric sockets, Breaker Bar, flat head and phillips screw driver, high temp wheel bearing grease, thrust or wd-40, and snap ring pliers. 1. First you raise the car on and put it on jack stands. 2. Take off the tire 3. Then you will use the torx socket to take off the outer hub assembly make sure you keep all the parts in order so that reassembly is easy. 4. You will then have to take off a snap ring, if you don't have snap ring pliers you can use very thin tipped needle nosed pliers and slide that off. 5. Then you will see a washer with two screws through it. Take the screws out. 6. You then will see the backing plate the washer was screwed into. This is threaded on the axle and you will have to unscrew it. I found it was easy to use the needle nose pliers and grip two of the holes and twist it off. 7. After everything is removed from the axle you can now go ahead and unbolt the caliper and caliper support bracket(may have to use a breaker bar. 8. The rotor and the part with the wheel studs is attached should slide off. 9. You then will have to unbolt the part with the wheel studs and rotor 10. Reinstall the new rotor and reassemble everything making sure you use enough wheel bearing grease on everything. You should also examine your wheel bearings at this time and the caliper to caliper bracket pins to see if they move freely. Hope this helps. I may have left some stuff out but this should get you going. Later.

I checked the codes and got code 33 for the oxygen sensor. Could this cause the problems I posted above? Thanks.

I just got my 1995 Pathfinder on the road after replacing the alternator and front pads/rotors. The Pathfinder was sitting for about 6 months with the gas tank almost empty. I think condensation formed and some sh*it got in the fuel filter. I am going to change the fuel filter and put dry gas in for the next few fill ups but why would the check engine light go on and off. It isn't too often but every now and then it lights up and then goes out about 1 second later. Also it smells like sulfur after the car has been running for a bit. Will the codes still be in the ecu if the light is flashing on and off intermittently? Any ideas thanks.

Ok, here is whats going on. The 95 Pathfinder had been sitting for about 4-6 months. The fuel level was pretty low so I am thinking condensation formed in the tank and mixed with the gas. The car runs smooth until I really get on it. Then I lose power and have to let up off the gas and reapply pressure. Do you guys think it is the fuel filter or just water in the tank or could it be both? I am registering it on Monday so I will be able to go to the gas station and fill up the tank the whole way and put some dry gas in it. If this doesn't help I am assuming it is the fuel filter. Later.

Thanks, yeah the rotor change when pretty smooth, I had never done rotors on a 4 wheel drive vehicle before so I wasn't used to taking the hub apart. On my supra you just pull the caliper and the rotor slides off(or you thread screws into both sides tighten them and it slowly works its way off). Wasn't too bad though. The alternator went pretty smooth also except for the rust in my eyes . My battery is brand new so I don't think it should be a problem. I will keep and eye on it though. Thanks for everyones help. Later.

Replaced the alternator, the system is now running at 13.4 instead of 10.4 like it was with the bad alternator. Before my brake light, battery light and a/t temp light were all lit up, after installing the new alternator all the lights have gone off. Later.

I have a radar detector that has a voltage meter on it. Are these accurate. When the Pathfinder is running without the lights on the voltage meter displays 10.1. With the lights on it dips below and flashes low voltage.

I had alot f 10w 40 sitting around, so I was going to use it, but since I am not putting in synthetic like in my Supra I decided to spend the 10 bucks and just use 5w30 like Niissan recommends.

Just wondering what motor oil everyone uses? Would 10w 40 be ok for a Pathfinder?

Finished, put the new pads and rotors on. The drivers side took me a while, the passenger side took about 30 minutes because I had learned exactly how to do it. Snap rings are a pita without the snap ring pliers . The drivers side wasn't too bad, but the passenger side the pads were very thick towards the outside and down to the backing plate on the inside. Both rotors were warped pretty bad. It made a huge difference. No more pulsation. Now I just need to figure out if my alternator is the cause of the brake warning light, a/t temp light, and battery light being on. Need to borrow a tester and see whats up with it. Should it be charging the battery at 12.5 to 14.5? Thanks. Later

Thanks, mine were actually in pretty good shape, so I reused them. Those are the seals that go flush against the rotor correct?

Which seal are you talking about? Is it the washer with holes in it that screws into the the lock washer?

Finished taking Drivers side hub and rotor off, if my bearings look ok can I just reuse them, if not what is the cost of new bearings? Thanks for your help guys.

I am removing the front rotors, sorry I didnt specify, I have drums in the back. So far I took off the the 6 torx bolts, I removed the auto lock hub sub assembly, then I removed the snap ring, washer b, washer a, and brake b. This is where I am at. Now I am looking at something with two tiny screws in it, I removed those but can't really figure out the next step. Is there a washer I remove and then a snap ring? If it is a washer and snap ring, how do I take off the washer? Then will the lock washer and wheel bearing lock nut slide right out? Thanks in advance. You guys are awesome. Later.

What are the steps in replacing the rotors?

How hard it it to take the old rusted ones off? On my Supra there are two threaded holes that you can screw a bolt into that pushes the old rotor off. Any thing like that on the Pathfinder. Or am I going to have to beat them off?

I can do the inspection myself, what is the minimum thickness they can be at, also how much does it usually cost to turn a rotor(I have always just replaced them). I can find rotors for 30 a piece should I just go with new or have the old ones turned? Are worn rotors most likely the cause of the pulsation? Anything else major it could be? Thanks.

Hello, I just picked up a 1995 Patfinder XE today for 1,000. The Pathfinder has been sitting for around 4 months. When I drove it home the brake pedal pulsates very noticeably. Does this just mean I need new rotors or could it be something else. Thanks.

Thanks for all the replies, going to pick the Pathfinder up tomorrow. Had some trouble with the title, oh well. Later.

Bump...

What if he just got a new battery but it has been sitting for a while. Could the alternator be good and the battery just needs to be charged by it? Thanks for the reply, you said I could find an alternator for $90.00? Where? I have searched and the least expensive one I could find was for $112.00 at Advanced Auto Parts. Thanks.

I just purchased a 1995 Pathfinder with 120 k on it from a friends father for $1000.00. Only things that need to be fixed or replaced are rotors and brake pads. He just got a new battery for it, but the battery light, a/t temp light, and parking brake light are on. It has been sitting for a while with the new battery. Could this cause all the lights to be on or is it most likely the alternator? Thanks.

Whats up, Just joined the forums because I purchased a 95 Pathfinder for the winter. I live in Rochester, NY am 22 I attend Monroe Community College and work in a pizza shop. Later.