95Finder

Well can't get the damn thing out and I don't have the cash to pull the head and have someone use an EMD machine on it. I guess I will just get a new exhaust gasket and bolt the manifold back on for the time being. When I get the cash I guess I will have to pull the head and take it to a machine shop. Thanks for trying to help.

Lol, carbide won't drill into it, I am going to grind the bolt down with a tungsten carbide tip(the only thing I found that will cut the extractor) for my dremel until the tip of the extractor is no longer present. Then I will try to drill and extract the bolt again, if this doesn't work then I will probably just end up drilling it out to 5/8 as Slick did and tap it for a bolt, wish me luck.

Anyone??? I know other people have done the same thing, it's inevitable when your drilling out studs. Why did this have to be one of the Pathfinders few faults?

I am replacing the studs on my 1995 Pathfinder, one of the studs was broken off so I couldn't get vice grips onto it. I drilled into the stud and started threading the bolt extractor into the hole. The bolt extractor snapped off and part of it is stuck in the middle of the stud. What are my options? Can I buy a carbide drill bit that will drill back into the stud? If I bring it to a shop will they be able to somehow get it out. Or do I need to remove the head and bring it to a place that removes fastners using EDM? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

It was fine yesterday, today after I changed the gear box out it started doing it, I think it might be because I didn't line up the splines as well as I should of and the steering wheel is actually turned a bit to the right when the wheels are straight. I guess I will pull the steering gear out again and line up the splines so the wheel is straight when the wheels are straight. Thanks for your suggestions.

What's up, I just replaced my Steering Gear Box because it was leaking fluid...now when I press on the brakes I can feel the truck pull to the right...do I need to get an aligment after I change the gearbox out? Why would it only pull to the right under braking? If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciate it. Thanks. Jason

Good to know, hopefully one of my local yards has a steering box for me...once I install the new box, how do I bleed the PS system? Also about how much am I looking to pay for the box with everything I need from the Junkyard?

Thanks for the info, so to remove the steering gear arm do I just remove the large nut on the bottom and slide the shaft out? Where would I get the shaft re-hardchromed, or could I just get the shaft honed down a bit so it is smooth again? Anyone else have experinence with this problem?

Whats up, I noticed that I am leaking fluid from where the steering gear arm attached to steering gear. I can see a rubber gasket where it pivots. I have tried using PS stop leak but it hasn't worked. Does Nissan sell this gasket by itself? I can't seem to find anything at Autozone or Advance Auto Parts. Please help if you know a part number or have had this same problem. Thanks.

I had to mount some tires on rims for my brother today and put them on so I didn't have time. Hopefully I can dissasemble the hubs tomorrow. I'll keep this thread updated with my findings and some pics. Later.

Well it seems as though its mostly while I am turning, it only happens after I have used 4wd. Last night it was happening consistently. I parked the truck for the night and today it hasn't happened at all. I am sure if I engage the 4wd and disengage it today the sound will start back up. It seems to be fine once it sits overnight, kinda strange.

Yes I am backing up to disengage the hubs. Just seems like when I turn the hub is catching the splines and hitting it out causing a loud clunking sound. I just did my rotors and packed the hubs and all the other components with grease but maybe one of the seals is shot and is letting dust/dirt/water in. I will check it out. Later.

I am having some problems with my 4wd on my 95 Pathfinder. When I shift out of 4 wheel hi and back into 2 wheel hi it doesn't seem like something in the 4wd system is disengaging on the front passenger side correctly. It almost seems as if the axle is barely disengaged and sliding in and out of the hub, causing loud clunking noises everytime the wheel rotates. It will only happen when I am starting off up to around 15mph. Has anyone had a similar problem. Did you just remove the hubs, clean and regrease them? The noise occurs after I use 4wd....but if I park it for the night, the noise sometimes stops until I use 4wd again. If anybody has any tips please let me know. THanks.

I searched the forums for a bit last night to try to see if anyone else has had the same problem I was running into. The thing is people post their problems but don't usually follow up with the fix. At first I thought I had filled up with some bad gas because the engine would stall out while I was driving...it would take as long as 5 minutes before it would start again. Yesterday The fuel pump would work intermittently, so I pulled off the fuel pump access cover in the rear cargo area and saw the problem. There are 4 wires that run to the fuel pump, they all are connected to brass posts with a ceramic button on top of them. The 2 wires on either end were corroded and one fell off when I moved the wiring harness. I chipped off the ceramic covers and cleaned up the brass posts with some emery cloth, I then soldered the wires back to the cleaned up posts and WA LA the car starts and stays running. These wires must have been so corroded they would have a connection sometimes and other times they wouldn't. Hope this writeup helps someone. Later.

My front drivers side power window has not worked since I bought the Pathfinder. I thought it was the switch at first because when I push the up button I can hear the motor trying to put it up and sometimes actually see the window get pushed up a bit. When I push the down button nothing happens. Today I went to a salvage yard and got a new switch assembly...it does the same exact thing that was happening before. Is my motor bad or could it be the wiring? I just don't understand why the motor would still be able to go up but not down. Thanks. Later.

Thats right on, detonation can also be caused by running lean, too much air not enough fuel although you won't see this problem much on a stock n/a engine unless something major is wrong. With a turbo, running more boost then the stock fuel system can handle or improper tuning it is common. Later.

Yeah, it is definately a PITA to run lines that don't have much flex to them. Today I just used zip ties to attach the lines to the frame rail and also zip tied them together. It seems like the old mounting brackets had something to do with the line rusting through, I believe they trapped moisture against the line and caused it to rust out faster then the other parts of the line not in contact with the mounting brackets. I got them nice and snug up to the frame rail, hopefully they hold. If not I will just buy some stainless steel braided fuel lines and run those up, now that I think about it, that probably would have been alot easier and cost about the same. Later.

Well after 5 hours and alot of gas fumes the fuel lines are fully replaced. It was a major PITA but had to be done. The longest part was removing the old fuel lines because they are attached to the frame raill in about 6 places and brake lines run along with them so I had to be extra careful not to snap them. When I took out the old lines I used a bolt cutter and cut them into smaller sections so removal was easier then snaking them out. Putting the new ones in was pretty time consuming. I started from the front and snaked the lines down to the back. I had to push them a little from the top and then get under the Pathy to guide them into place. After about what seemed like going back and forth 100 times they were as good as they were gonna get. I started it up and no fuel leaks. To get the rubber hoses off the old fuel lines I pryed the rubber up a bit with a flathead and sprayed thrust between the line and inside of the rubber, after much twisting they popped off, and the new lines slid in pretty easily. I still have to attach the lines to the frame rail but other then that it is DONE. Later.

It is for all three metal lines, the rubber lines are fine. Later.

Well I was going to replace just the part of the one fuel line that is leaking but I called up a Nissan dealership to get prices on all new fuel lines. I was thinking new fuel lines from Nissan would be some ridiculous price. The guy said he had a set in stock and they were originally 103.00 but would cut me a deal for 73.00 for all three lines. After thinking about it I am just going to replace all the lines since the originals are not in good shape and I would probably spring another fuel leak not long after fixing this one. Later.

Yeah, I will make sure they are all good. Now if anyone knows the dimensions of the lines just tell me. I don't feel like taking the tire off again and breathing gas fumes while I measure, I already have had enough gas fumes for a few years at least.

Well the lines are attached to rubber fuel lines that come from the fuel pump so rubber fuel lines replacing the metal ones should hold as long as they are clamped ok and the remaining fuel line is strong enough and doesn't collapse when clamped.

Can't I just remove the efi fuse and start the car until it stalls then turn it over a few times to relieve pressure? If someone could just tell me what the diameters are it would be helpful. Thanks.

I am wondering what are the diameters of the fuel lines on my 1995 Pathfinder, I have to replace a section of the fuel line, I believe it is the feed line. What is the outside diameter of the feed and return lines? I am thinking about cutting the section with the hole out and replacing it with rubber fuel line. If anyone could help it would be much appreciated

Thanks, I actually took the rear passenger side wheel off to try to see where it was leaking from. It is coming from one of the three fuel lines that are attached to the inside of the frame rail. Anyone know how much new fuel lines cost for the Pathfinder or what size diameter and what lengths of ss line I would need? Later