JB3829

Does anyone know how to get rid of the annoying squealing belt syndrome? I know the belts and pulleys develope a "glaze" that makes them squeal, but the belts on my Pathy and Quest are about a year old and when it's cold out they sound REAL bad. Is there a better type of belt that can help? Thanks

The transfer case is under the front driver side door, the drain plugs for the diffs and TC are on the bottom and the fill is up top. Make sure you loosen your fill plugs first! You don't want to drain it and not be able to fill it if the plug is stuck. The front diff fill plug is in a tight spot...good luck. I used an old quart size gear fluid bottle with a length of fuel hose on the end to squeeze in the diff and TC fluids. The transfer case takes the same fluid as the tranny. Just fill until it starts spilling out of the fill hole. Hope this helps.

just a shot in the dark, but how about the coil? Most will test good when cold, but when warmed up, they been known to fail. I have an '88 camry (I couldn't pass up the deal) that was doing the same thing. I changed the coil and haven't had the problem since. Maybe also the egr system? Good Luck!

I get a similar "clunk" when I come to a stop and release the brake. I'm guessing it might be the upper control arm bushings or track bar bushings. I don't feel this clunk when I'm towing my boat or have a heavy item in the cargo area. Good luck!

I got the end link bushings from PepBoys or Autozone...$10 bucks for eight of them, but, I had to shave them on a belt sander to fit because they are a little thick. The rear mid link bushings (sway bar to axel) are about $20 bucks but I can't remember the bar diameter though. The front mid links don't exist. I've called performance suspension and another manufacturer but they don't make them. I installed poly sway bar bushings and KYB shocks/struts on my wife's Quest as well....it handles 10 x's better now. Hope this helps!

I can't say anything about intakes, but I had a flowmaster 50 series installed and drilled a hole in the front clip below the parking light and into the air box, then added a plastic tube. It's a crude cold air intake, but my pathy doesn't seem to struggle when going uphill on these mountain highways out here in PA. If the cams are changed you'll also need new lifters. Could be PRICEY!

What size speakers are in the back anyway?

how bout new camshafts or a better exhaust? Cams are pricey....$550.00 just for the cams

I have the KYB struts up front and the shocks in the back. I found them on ebay about 2 years ago as a package deal for $200. I installed them myself and replaced the all sway bar bushings except the front mid-links with poly. What a difference. It'll definitely be stiffer around town but soild on the highway. I fly at about 90 mph on the turnpike out here in Pa. without a hint of body lean.

Anyone ever consider installing performance cams when changing the timing belt. I read they'll give you about 15% more HP and increase mpg. Should the lifters be changed as well? I've only seen the cams on 4X4parts.com for $550.00. Good deal? Thanks!

I've had that sqeal from time to time as well, especially on hot, dry days when towing my boat. It never sticks around long enough for me to consider it a problem though...good luck!

Not too long ago I had the same problem with my 97. Turned out to be the evap system. They replaced the whole shebang (probably didn't need it). While mine was being worked on, another 97 with the same problem came in. My 97 had about 75,000 on it at the time. I now have a code reader I bought off of ebay for 40 bucks and a list of trouble codes from alldatadiy.com Good luck!

Junk that piece of crap clarion head unit and go with a aftermarket. I installed a new Kenwood that plays all types of cd's & mp3's and it's Sirius ready. It sounds better than the original! Good Luck!

I'm pretty sure that's not a Bose head unit. It wasn't in my '97 anyway. The speakers are Bose, but the head is actually made by clarion or alpine...I'm not sure. I would scrap it before it stops working(as they normally do) and go aftermarket.

I just changed the fluid in my last week. I sprayed it with WD-40 a day before, torched it, then slammed it with a hammer a few times. Then I used a 3 foot piece of pipe on the half inch wrench and zipped it right off. The fill plug was another story. I did the same as the drain, but I had to use my floor jack on the end of the wrench to loosen the bugger. I'll attempt the front soon...doesn't look fun. Good Luck!

I just installed a Kenwood KDC-MP528. It has a flip face/MP3/Sirius ready, etc. all the bells and whistles. It was $200 at best buy plus around $40.00 for all of the adapter/wiring harnesses. I made one mistake though...it has a "call" feature that mutes the audio if you have a cell phone wired thru your ride. I hooked up the orange "call" wire to a factory wire and every time I hit the brakes, the audio muted...WHOOPS! Drove me nuts til I figured it out. But it sounds WAY better than that factory piece of crap which is actually made by Alpine or Clarion, NOT BOSE! Good Luck!

Yo guys, any info on changing the transfer case and differential fluid? I was thinking about using synthetic. Does the transfer case have a drain plug? Thanks!

I cut a hole thru the plastic under the parking light, then one thru the air box and shoved an adapter piece from my leaf blower thru both holes(with screen attached at the end). I then attached a piece of gutter guard mesh in the opening at the front of the pipe. Looks NICE! If it gets too muddy, I can cover it up with the top from a spray paint can. I'll see if can get a picture of it.

I just bought a Flowmaster 50 series for my '97. Both downtubes need to be replaced (too much salt on PA roads) and I'm having the resonator chopped off and replaced with stainless pipe. Flowmaster recommended this muffler....you can call them for the part number or I can get it for ya. I'll let you know how it comes out.

I don't think Bose makes the head unit. I have a '97 but was told that Clarion makes the head unit and the speakers are Bose. My CD player hasn't worked in months. Possibly going satellite!

I was reading another forum on some Nissan offroad site and one message said something about a misalignment of the driveshaft to the rear axle causing the uv joint and trailing arm bushings to give up prematurely...I have the same problem between 55-65 mph as well as a clunk somewhere in the rear end after releasing the brake after a stop. I've also replaced the shocks and struts but the "shimmy" is still there. I feel your pain! :confused: I have a '97 SE that's going in tomorrow to have a flowmaster 50 series muffler installed with new downtubes and stainless tip(sans the resonator)

I found a package deal on ebay a year ago for a complete set of KYB Gas-A-Just shocks and struts for my '97 for about $200.00. I put the shocks on myself and had the struts mounted for $50 bucks. I then replaced all the sway bar bushings with polyurethane. I do most of my driving on the highway and I can't say enough about the handling now. It's very responsive, not too stiff around town or off road and the truck feels real confident.

Thanks to all who responded to my origional exhaust post! I took it to a local custom exhaust shop in the Philly area and I'm told there's a leak at one of the headers and one where the header and the cat meet.....both front tubes are also shot. Any idea on where to find performance headers and high flow cats for a '97 Pathy? If I'm gonna spend the money I'd rather go high performance, right? Thanks!

No clunking noises and I don't think the local tire shop used a flange plate adapter...I'm wondering if it has something to do with a driveshaft. The vibration shows up with overdrive on or off.

Anybody ever feel a weird vibration coming from the drivetrain at 55-65 MPH (Not thru the steering wheel). '97 SE with automatic trans All four wheels have been rebalanced but it's still there!