TXPower

I hunt a 10 square mile area in West Texas and everything I have ever used lacks a little something. I have been thinking recently about converting my pathy to include a truck bed for hauling everything around, while still having a heater in winter and A/C in summer plus all the other comforts of an SUV. So, I want to put a flatbed on my 93 Pathy, I envision cutting the cab away just behind the rear seats with a plasma cutter and either fabbing an enclosure from sheet metal or cutting the back of a 93 hardbody cab off a donor and welding it up. I'll then fabricate a flatbed that will extend a little further beyond the length of the original rear most point at the back bumper. Has anyone done anything like this, have advice, do's/dont's, PICTURES? Thx, TXPower

Yeah, that was my read too on the comma placement. If it had a good 5sp, I'd buy it myself. TX

http://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/cto/1046381629.html Saw this today, if somebody on here really wants it, I can probably arrange something. TX

thanks ya'll TX

I edited my original post and added a couple of links to photos hosted on snapfish. Hope it works it was the only way I could figure out to do it. Maybe pictures will help some of ya'll see what I'm asking about and someone will recognize the plug and provide an explanation. thx, TX

Yeah, I was afraid my description wouldn't be clear. That's why I was hoping someone could take a picture of their stock configuration so I could compare. I will take a photo of the big, black plug I was describing and post it later if I can figure out how. Thanks for confirming the one piece is fuseable link Greg. Thx, TX

So I was gonna put a new battery in my 93 SE today because the old one kept going dead and as I started to pull the cables off the terminals I noticed on the positive side, where it hooks to the battery posts, there is a large black plug that has two smaller ports incorportaed into it. This large black plug also has a round terminal incorportaed into off the side. The PO attached it to the battery terminal by running the battery terminal bolt thru it. One port on this large black plug has what appears to be a fuseable link plugged in which goes toward the fender well, the other port has two male studs. Upon tracing the dual stud wire down from the plug I find the PO had wired the two plugs that should plug into this port, together. However, there is just the one wire which goes down toward the starter. I'm looking at this thinking, sheesh, what a butcher the PO was.....................oh well. I looked at my FSM and cannot find a picture in any of the diagrams that explain this larger plug and where the wires that plug into the smaller ports on it go and do. Assuming my description is understandable, can someone explain what and where these wires go and how they are supposed to look? Maybe someone could take a photo of their battery/starter wires attached to the battery terminal posts so I can get an idea of how it should be, please!?? Thanks, TX http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/co...finder00007.jpg http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/co...finder00006.jpg

Ok, so I got to mess some more with my 93 SE today and found the following: 1. Coolant level was fine in radiator and reservoir. Started up and let it run for over an hour. It’s 60 degrees and sunny here today. The temp gauge barely ever moved off cold mark. The radiator tanks and upper hose got hot but the lower hose was cold. Took radiator cap off, no sign of circulation. Squeezed the upper hose…………….gyser out the fill neck. I noticed the tailpipe steamed the entire time and a significant puddle of water formed under the tailpipe on the driveway. Still no sign of water in the oil or vice versa. What ya’ll think, simply thermostat or head gasket issue? 2. Performed the paper at the tailpipe test, as well as using a shop towel. Both were being sucked into the tailpipe rhythmically. Obvious miss heard while performing this test. Timing belt issue, cam lobes, bent valves, what ya’ll think. 3. I’m still pondering buying a $750 JDM import or rebuilding mine. Can I rebuild mine including cost of rebuild kit and possible needed machine work for $750? Mine has 239k on it. What’s the experience here, can I get away with putting new rings, seals, bearings etc in it or will it need to be bored and the crank turned etc? Thx, TX

Going to look at it tomorrow, let ya'll know. Thx, TX

Thank you sir, now I'll go offer him less than what he's asking. times are tuff folks is broke these days............... TX

If this link will open, could ya'll look at the pics and maybe tell me if you think this is the truck/pathy motor? Thx, TX http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/954307309.html

Anyone.......................how do I check and make sure it's not a maxima engine? Thx, TXPower

How do I make sure it's not out of a Maxima, is it like Chevrolet engines, is there a sequence of numbers and letter somewhere on the block I can check to see what the original application was? I will definitely look it over real good before anything. Thx, TXPower

I called the number listed on the add and spoke to the rep, he's an importer. The price, $750, is for the motor only, which is an import from Japan. He claims the motor has a max 55,000 miles on it and was removed, sold and shipped here due to Japan's emission laws. He warranties the motor also. Is 750 a good deal in that case? Thx, TXPower

OK dudes, I messed with the pathy a bit today and observed that the radiator, hoses and hard plastic crossover pipe appear fairly new. During the sale the previous owner claimed he had some head work done on it about 6 months ago, what kind of head work, who knows, but those new items may support what he said. The radiator and over-flow were full as a tick, I have run it quite a bit and haven't added a drop. I also checked the oil while cold, it was thick, and black. It was not brown or milky. If in fact there is coolant entering the oil I can't tell. When I say thick I mean it was unusually thick like maybe the previous owner never changed the oil or perhaps due to low oil pressure or something else maybe he was using an additive of some sort or really thick oil...........................who knows. I will compression check it ASAP. I searched the Dallas/FT. Worth Craigslist today and found a guy advertising a VG30DE for $500.00 he claims is in really good condition. And another guy with a VG30E for $750 the picture shows the auto tranny and transfer case attached to the motor his add is unclear, but if it doesn't include the tranny and transfer, $750 seems high. I know it depends on the condition of the stuff but do the prices seem in the ballpark or too high. I'll report back when I have more. thx, TXPower

How bout "you guys"? TXPower

LOL! TXPower

Ok, I'll do those things and check back with you. As far as checking to see if it's loosing coolant, besides filling and running, what should I do, a pressure check with one of those things that connects to the radiator cap and pressurizes? As far as buying a used engine for $400-$600, how do I know what I'm getting is any better than what I got now? Thx, TXPower

It's a reputable rebuilder in the Dallas Metroplex, why sound too cheap or what? OK, I thought the tranny might be a stretch. Tell me what to look for on the exhaust so I can look with an educated eye, I mean, besides I guess large holes or cracks, which i don't think there are because I can't hear any leaks, what am I looking for in your experience? The truck runs pretty good, good idle at startup, after warm and after driven. I have not looked at the coolant level very closely yet, will do next. It does not appear to be overheating, but I am unsure to be honest because the needle on the gauge bounces and vibrates so I don't know if it's working. it Bounces and vibrates around a quarter off the C cold mark. Where should it be, just left of the center point? No check engine lights, assuming the light indicator is operational. I drove it about 80 miles from where I bought it reaching highway speeds and idling at stop lights and such so I ran the gamut of normal operation. Besides having a bunch of rattles and some drivetrain noise, probably manual tranny and/or transfer case, the vehicle seems to run well. Thx, TXPower

First off, thanks for this site to the owner and moderators of this forum, awesome information at the fingertips............. I bought a 93 XE V6, 5sp 4X4 with 289,000 miles on it last week for $900.00. Have no idea what if any major repairs the motor has had internally. It runs really descent, the tranny grinds going from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, from searching archives here on this site..........normal for these things. A tranny shop I trust says $800.00 worst case scenario to rebuild the tranny. The motor smokes a bit at cold startup and sometimes at take-off from a dead stop. But only at those times. The power seams appropriate for a V6 I guess, really do not know what to expect from it since I have always been a Small Block Chevy person. I can buy a rebuilt longblock for it locally for $1450.00. I guess re-working the head would be considerably cheaper have not checked. I have significant experience with American made engines and know my way around the toolbox etc. Now my questions: In ya'lls experience is there anyway to determine if the smoke is blow by in the valve seats, seals etc as opposed to say piston rings? In otherwords, other than tearing it apart to see, is there a way that reasonably can narrow the failing parts without an autopsy? I have always been told that a manual tranny rebuild is do-able by do-it-yourselfers with the right manual, tools, patience and attention to detail. I wonder though, are there gonna be so many speacial service tools needed that the cost of buying will equal paying to have it done? I have the FSM, a good place to work, time and patience but want the expert opinions available here, what do ya'll think? TXPower