Justin517
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Posts posted by Justin517
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I'm exploring a supercharger upgrade for my '98 and there are several factors to consider. Luckily, the VG33E came supercharged on the '02-'04 Xterra so OEM hardware modification is a possibility. I've also been exploring an all-out swap, simply dropping a VG33ER into my rig to makes things easier (It would also make beefing up the R50 VG33E a lot easier.)
Hood modification is a must unless you consider a subframe drop. My plan is to install the SFD but not install the engine mounts to raise it up, therefore giving me additional clearance without cutting up the hood. For this to work, I will need to lower the transmission, which may benefit the drivetrain in the end as this won't put the driveshaft at such an angle.
An exhaust system will be necessary so I'm planning a 2.25" with 2.5" out.
why not consider a VQ? I know that with mods the S/C VG33 would be a bit more horsepower but what kind of longjevity will you really get out of a blower, especially if you are using a smaller pulley.
But then again, the VQ isnt a bolt in ordeal, is it?
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Uh, the RB? I've considered dropping a RB26DETT N1 into the Pathy... That would cost more than double than a diesel swap...
But yes, an inline-6 in a Pathy could be pretty ridonkulous...
yes it might cost more, but it wouldnt be a 3800 rpm redline jar-full-o-pennies rattle box... dont get me wrong I love diesels, but unless you put a @!*%-ton of work into it its not going to be any "faster" than your VG... itll have torque out the wazoo, and rock climb at itle, but it sounds like you wnat more getupNgo.
Its not a pathy, its a patrol (larger, solid front axle) with an RB in it:
muahaha:
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You're going to boost a VQ35?
Right now its just sort of a pipe dream but I'm really thinking about it. I <3 boost. I know the VQ is 10:1 which is pretty high, but I would only be running 6psi or so,a nd it would be intercooled... so it should be pretty safe... should be...lol.
you can also get forged turbo pistons and Brian Crower or Eagle Rods for $$1100-$1200, then you'd have 8.5:1 compression and able to run as much boost as you ahve fueling for, but thats a slippery slope because then you have to upgrade the fuel pump and the transmission would be suspect... and who the hell wants a 550+ horsepower pathfinder anyway... sounds like a deathtrap to me.
But yeah Ive thought about an eaton M90 supercharger too, fab up a piece that would go between the lower intake manifold and the blower... maybe even work in a water to air intercooler sandwiched in there... btu that would require hood modification and the belt drive seems like it would be pretty involved, plus it would always be robbing MPGs... witha turbo you can dial back the boost, or just stay out of it while cruising and get the same MPG as stock, or close anyway. I was also thinking about maybe a single turbo, like a big A/R (.82 or so) 60-1 T3 which may simplify things, but the question is where do I fit it? the airbox would be gone and I could re-locate the battery too, so maybe that'd work...
so as you can see if I decide to go ahead with it, I have alot of variables to to nail down.
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Getting ready to purchase my tires. Can't decide between the 2 sizes oddly enough a 265/70/16 (31) is around 205 for a bfg AT and a 265/75/16 (32) is about 190. So my question is do you get that much of a decrease in gas mileage / rubbing / power / wear on steering parts with the 32's? Which would you guys reccomend?
if you have stock wheels you would need spacers to run 32" tires, or they would probably rub on the strut. My 31"s are close and also rub at full lock, w/o a lift.
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I didn't think that they were bent too badly at all...remember I went true dual all the way back as well!
I had this set up installed thinking the same thing that you are---350z bla bla bla. It really comes down to pure HP. The truck doesn't make but 240 BHP and presses 260 ft/lbs...this leads to about the 2" exhaust you are mentioning.
The loss with the larger set up was bad....tons of working climbing a hill right outside the shop--oh yeah and tons of noise! I did feel like there was more HP (through acceleration) in the higher RPM's but it just didn't justify the low end poo that I was left with.
If I had the money to go again, I would probably get 1.75" mandrel to the muffler and then 2" or more after the muffler as the 2 combine into one. The OE pipes are like 1.5 to the muffler and nearly 2" after the muffler, albeit crush-bent.
Now, my VG33E 98 loved the larger exhaust...I ran a Flowmaster SUV muffler with 2.25" to the muffler and 3" after and all was awesome!! I noticed only a slight drop in TQ, then again it wasn't a TQ monster anyway.
You are correct that the 350 is lighter but lacks the great gears we have available, but we lack a 6 spd manual option!! Yes yes I still want that, I just need other things first, like a house and college for my daughter (whom is 7!!).
Well it looks like I'll be keeping stock, or atleast mostly stock, i wonder how it would react just replacing the muffler with a dual in single out, higher flowing unit... that would keep the puny dual pipes which are likely what is making the torque, but will give the truck a bit more of a grumble and maybe more top end also, without killing the torque too much...
or maybe I'll just get 2 of these, they will provide decent back-pressure to the exhaust:
stock turbo for 1.8T like I had on my audi, it was able to spike to 22 psi and held 13 by redline (its tiny) on 1.8L so it should be able to make 6 psi on 3.5L (1.75L each) pretty easily,a nd hold it to red-line, and they would spool so damn quick I'd get monster torque quite quickly...
use a small ebay water/air intercooler
I have a blown K03 turbo, I'll have to get the thing up on my buddies lift and see what kind of room I have. I'd need an IPT valve body first though me thinks. then there is the question of tuning... bigger injectors/rising rate FPR? SAFC? Wonder if Jim wolf can get me a base tune?
sorry... I no longer have a fast turbo'd vehicle and its really bothering me, I dont want to buy another vehicle right now, but I keep thinking of ways to modify the one I have...
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Ta-Da! I only wish I was as cool as the dark knight!
I had 2 exhaust systems on my 02 so far! I had from the 2 resonators back replaced with 2.25 piping (not mandrel bent) all the way back to a Magnaflow that had the "X" pipe inside it. This was the longest Magnaflow available (26" long maybe?). This was a dual in dual out set up. After the larger piping and super free flowing muffler (oh and nearly $400 in parts and labor) the truck lost Torque something terrible. I ripped that exhaust off the same day in favor of the OEM tacked back on!
I enjoyed the OE until the rear resonator rusted off at the flange, which happens a lot, then I had an Aero Turbine muffler put on and the OE pipe made to fit infron and in back with the resonator delete. My current exhaust looks like hell, but is GREAT ! The Aero exhaust is the 2525xl....it has a resonator in it right in front of the aero foil that is actually the muffler. I have a video up on youtube.....however the music in the background is cruddy and I think that the exhaust has even changed its tone since then so I need to add a new vid soon.
and that's my $.02 USD.
REALLY? thats pretty suprising. What kind of torque loss are we talking about here?? How was the top end with the 2.25" on there? and also I would imagine that it would improve gas mileage a bit with the larger exhaust, increased pumping efficency. I am really suprised it lost that much torque, maybe 2" would be a good compromise? I mean, looking at the aftermarket exhausts for the 350Z/Maxima/3.5 altima, they all seem to use decently sized piping, and while I know those vehicles weigh a bit less, they also dont have 4.68:1 axle ratios so torque loss I imagine would be an issue...
How badly were the bends "pinched" on your system? a press-bent 2.25" pipe can have as small a cross section as a 1.75" pipe, especially in a 90° bend, which will hurt performance... both horsepower and torque.
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More than 3" and you will mess with the backpressure on the engine. It actually needs a little to fucntion properly.
I wasnt going to do dual 3", that would just be the tail-pipe after the muffler.
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I tail pipe has been clunking against my reciever hitch and I blew out the ripoff "resonatior repair kit" in a few places on my '03 pathy and am finally going to order the stuff to build custom.
I would be doing 2.25" or 2.5" mandrel bent to a dual inlet, single 3" outlet muffler in the stock location with (obvioulsy) a 3" tail pipe out the back... probably to the side like the VG pathys had but with slightlu more downward angle... basically to go over the axle imk going to cut a 3" 180° down the center, add a straight piece in the middle and make the rearward "leg" angled to stick out the side a bit.
A few quastions:
First- I know the VQ likes to breathe, and I hear the thing "hissing" when I get on it because of the puny diameter stock piping, so I think any improvement will be appreciated by the engine, but do you think I should go with 2.25" or 2.5" the price difference is negligeable and there seems to be a decent amount of room to fit it in there.
Second- do you think 3" for after the muffler would be big enough? I could get 4" but each 180° bend is $10 more ($26 vs $16) and I'm not sure if I could get a muffler (atleast not for cheap) witha 4" outlet.
I was also considering maybe doing 2.5" dual... not out both sides, they would exit nect to eachother on the passenger side... it would be a bit more expensive but probably sound pretty cool, ahve a larger choice of mufflers, and with an offset muffler I migth not need to do much for the tail pipe, could maybe do straight out the back, or maybe just a small kink here or there.
any input is appreciated.
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Eventually I'd like to get some more oomph out of my VQ (if I keep the path itll probbaly get a full rebuild at around 200k, might as well upgrade) the Jim wolf cams are really expensive. I was thinking that the REV-UP engine cams , if they fit, would be a nice upgrade.
Standard VQ cams:
Int: 238° duration .377" lift
Exh: 240° duration .377" lift
Rev-Up cams:
248° duration .417" lift both intake and exhaust.
PDF of stock and Jim Wold cam profiles here
If you could find them in a junk yard they could probably be a pretty nice upgrade.
then I was also thinking about maybe just sending them out to Delta cams in washington state to have them add material and re-ground. I had oen of their cams for my GTI and it was a pretty nice piece and had no wear problems (I actuyally got it used too). I would probably go with something with a 260° duration and a .430"-.440" lift so it would be as much duration as the JWT S1 but with atleast as much lift as the smaller duration/higher lift S2 But still smaller overall than their C2 cam.
Any thoughts?
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EXACTLY! I couldnt believe the price but was gonna keep my mouth shut...if anyone wants I can dig up a link I saved that a guy did a DIY on his 00-04 R50...
POST IT UP!
Ive seen it done on MKII VWs and many-a-audi but not a pathy.
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Ok, this oil filter is smallest oil filter I have ever had. Smaller than my 85 Cavalier 2.0L, smaller than my 95 Sentra 1.6L and waaay smaller than any other truck I have worked on. What's the deal?
Is there a longer filter that fits that I can get? I am changing my oil early at 3K right now as don't trust the small filter element.This same thing has bothered me since I got my pathfinder.
I used to run a MASSIVE oil filter on my A4 (over a qt capacity) from a volvo diesel. get a napa catalog and cross refrence by thread diam and pitch then look for a close gasket size. you may find something.
internal pressures matter too though but d like to see really how much. plus it seems like you are limited by room for diameter too.
Maybe look into an oil filter relocation kit? that uses a plate where the filter would go, then lines and then any size filter you want, sometimes 2.
Also while we are on oiling systems, I will be getting oen of these:Moroso Accumulator at Summit Racing
your engne pressurizes it, if you lose pressure it gets it back up there. AND if you flip the lever before you shut down, it stays pressuzed... the next time you start up, flip that lever first and it sends oil back through the system... no more "dry" starts... I dont like the fact that the oil light flickers when you first start it.
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when I mounted my tires a few weeks ago I didnt have the pads backed out all the way and ended up lifting the front by the nerf-bar mount...lol.
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Here's his reply. He's willing retrofit just about any headlight.
Alex,
We almost retrofit any headlights OEM xenon projectors, and your 2001 Nissan Pathfinder can be retrofitted with any bi-xenon projectors. I can use Infiniti G 35 or FX 35 bi-xenon projectors, and retrofit them in your vehicle. Also the price is a lot cheaper for me to retrofit your headlight compare to buying the JDM headlights. The JDM are RHD (right hand drive) which means the headlights flare will blind the incoming traffic. The Inifniti Bi-xenon projectors are LHD (Left hand Drive its what we us in U.S.). This means the same flare will go on the right side of the road, instead of the incoming traffic. With that in mind the price will be $695 + shipping. This price does not include headlights, you will have to provide me with a set of headlights to retrofit.
The turnaround time is around 2-10 business day after I receive the headlights and all xenon parts, and another 1.5 months for the custom bezels/shrouds to get chromed and cured.
Best Regards,
Greg Cheban
(916)218-5986
I his work will probably be top notch, but $700? that seems like quite a bit, it says that des not include headlights... does it include the HID parts?. I have seen this done on VWs and Audis, actually if you search around you can find quite a few DIYs for it. I personally wouldnt worry about re-chroming and black it go with flat black inside, seeing as its not needed anymore because you will have projectors... it would look cooler too.
I would liek to do it to m pathy someday, maybe if I can grab an extra set of headlights to hack up someday.
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so its like "city lights" in europe?
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nuttin speshul...
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I thought the point was the driving would create heat and get you out of open ad into closed loop mode sooner.
Maybe someone with a scangaugeII can do an experiment?
it does get you warmed up quicker, but the percentage of extra fuel used while accelerating with a richer fuel map I am sure is more than idleing for a minute or so. Plus the added benefits of the oil being a bit warmer and more circulated, seems well worth it to me. I'm not saying sit and idle until you are at operating temp... but a minute or so cant hurt.
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That's weird.
Typically idling a cold vehicle will burn more gas than driving, because it's sitting in open loop, basically dumping fuel in to keep it running. Getting the truck into closed loop as quickly as possible is the key.
But the coolant is still cold, the coolant sensor sees this so youre running a richer fuel map until you are warmed up. I dont think throttle input changes that, if that were the case you'd run really lean before you warmed up.
Idleing with a richer fuel map is better than driving (accelerating) with one.
atleast thats my take on it... thats how it worked on my old VW.
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tirerack is good sometimes, i got a great deal on my brembo brakes through them
but not always the cheapest.... for example they want $165 each for my size BFG, plus shipping it comes out to like $180 each and then you got to go pay for mounting and balancing..... in the end you pay $200+ per tire
i went to a local, non-chain tire shop and picked up the same size BFG's for $140 each installed
Yeah, I meant online. I mount/balance my own tires, my buddy has the 2 machines in his garage, so I didnt factor that in...
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yeah I was getting close to 500km/tank (I even converted for you northerners!) now I'm getting MAYBE 400 km/tank.
I do need to change all the lubes and flush the tranny and I need to do spark plugs. and I'm runnin 31" tires.
I'll be getting manual hubs in jan, so hopefully all that will help.
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Well the topic says it all. I hope I am not being a total noob buy asking this if there is a section dedicated to it. Mods, delete this thread if there is please.
I want to get some wheels and tires for the Path. Looks like only 31"s will fit with the stock lift from my research. I cant find a 1" high quality lift kit. Anyone know where to find that. The lift will come later.
So I want tires and wheels. I dont want bling wheels, just stock size black steel wheels with BFG's, probably A/T's.
Who knows where the best place to get them the cheapest possibly in a package deal?
thanks, Jim
Cheapest place ive found for quality tires is tirerack.com they were cheaper than everywhere and have AWESOME customer service, I got my tires in 1 day.
As for steel wheels, there are a few places to get them... summit racing has cheap US wheels, there are diamond racing wheels , local is probably the best, also if you dont want anything fancy maybe look into your local junk yard and get some spare tire wheels, theyre steel, and prob can be had for really cheap, the one on my '03 is 16x7. I thaink that after a certain year (99.5?) many 15" wheels wont clear the brakes so make sure of that first.
On the R50 the lift doesnt dictate what size tire you can run, its the lower spring perch on the strut (which doesnt change no matter how much you lift it), if you have small enough back spacing you'll be fine though.
as for a 1" lift, there isnt one that is 1". Old Man Emu (OME) makes a 1.75" Automotive customizers (AC) makes a 2" and they have recently come out with HD stock height, which I guess is really like a 1/2" lift... which I think I may be trying out, or atleast the rear springs anyway.
HTH.
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265/70/16 are 31's correct? How did you get those tires not to hit the struts? I have the AC lift with the LE 17 in wheels. Do ou think I could fit a 31 in tire on the 17 in wheels with the AC lift? Thanks. Your trucks look great!
They are 30.9" diameter. they clear the struts fine, about 1/2" distance between edge of the tread and the strut. I ran even closer in the rear on my audi and had no problems, even under really hard cornering (had much stiffer springs and the biggest sway-bars they made for the car) What I've read is 264/75-16s rub on the strut with stock wheels, but someone on here ran used, somewhat worn ones with a bit of clearance. I gues you can also grind the strut housing a bit or get/have made some spacers for the front.
As for the 17" LE wheels, I am not sure what the back spacing is compared to the 16" SE wheels I have. thats really what it depends on, if its less you could go even bigger I'm sure. Looking at my tires specs on TireRack.com it looks like the 265/65-17 actually is 0.3" smaller in diameter with the same width... so you could probably run that just fine.
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is it a bad idea to run it in my VQ? I probably wouldnt in the winter because its so "thick" when cold, but if i ran it when it gets warmer out would it be bad?
I have a bit of oil consumption, and was thinking maybe this would cut down on it a little.
thoughts?
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I love the color of your pathy, I have a thing for green. if they go out of balance its not a big deal my really close friend has a balancing machine in his garage (and mounting machine). we did the tires at 6pm on a sunday night, lol.
I know theyre cheap but the reviews they got on tire rack are great. The sidewall may not be as robust as a BFG but itll serve me well. It would ahve been $200 more for the BFGs.
Is your truck stock height? or is it lifted? it looks higher than mine (in the rear atleast)... but I'm pretty sure mine just sags... towing a nearly 2000 lb trailer to florida (from CT), putting 4000 lbs of car and parts on it, and towing it back... plus having 800+ lbs of people/supplies inside will do that I guess... Plus ive moved 4 or 5 times with it too, completely loaded with seats folded down, roof rack and one of those little add-a-hitch platfors FULL of stuff, I was well into the bumpstops.
I want to get HD rear springs for just the rear but I dont know if I'll liek the way that handles. I'm considering airbags too...
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How much did they cost, where did you get them, etc...and if you take em in the mud def. get us some pics of the aftermath and reviews...
Got them from TireRack.com, they were $116 each ($545 shipped for 4 and they came in 1 day) I did some mild wheeling lastnight and man do they work well! there was this one hill that turns into a really steep incline at the top then there is sort of a tree in the way so I had to alomost stop at the top then continue. no spin at all. I wnat to try to get a video of it at some point. Here are some better pics too...
dont mind the dent, someone opened their door into it or something, need to use the "Dent King" on it, lol.
custom exhaust for a VQ35, diameter suggestions?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
yeah, I looked into that, and its considerably more $$ than it would be for me to buy a $600-$800 turbo (or 2 smaller turbos) and a couple hundred dollars worth of stainless tubing/flanges and fab it all up myself... we would be talking half the price once its all said and done, especially if I would have to work out my own tuning for the supercharger. But i think I will look into contacting vortech to see how much just their mounting/drive system would cost... if they will even provide it seperately.