Geoff57

80mm, Do these guys have to replace their CV rubber boots every 12mths when they wear thru? Geoff

I have a 30mm lift on my R50. The part No on my Bilsteins is F4 BE5 6935 They are certainly long enough to take an even higher lift. Geoff

If you guys want to talk to other Australian Pathfinder owners, try the PCOA forums. There are lots of hopelessly devoted Parthy owners there with some great info Geoff :

So all the power of a hurricane couldn't bring the post down, but a mighty Ozzie R50 did. What a machine Geoff PS Those plastic side mouldings where only fitted to the TI model R50s. If its any help when ordering it

Hi Pezzy, Australia R50 models are mostly ST or TI Geoff

Pete just google Lokka there are quite a few threads from various 4WD sites in here in Oz that go back a few years. There are some negative comments made, attributed to sales staff trying to promote their competing product or die hard air locker fans The only draw back is the increased steering self centering when the FWH hubs are engaged but this only really noticiable on the bitumen. On dirt you soon adjust to it and forget about it. With the FWH hubs unlocked there is no effect on the steering what so ever. The big advantages of the Lokka is that it is engaged all the time and you dont have to think about it. You also still get diff action happening when you need to turn. As far as durability goes if you try hard enough anything can be busted. I know of a few occasions where the axles/ cvs have broken before the Lokka. I have heard of one guy braking a Lokka but the same guy also damaged the air locker he installed to replace it. Happy researching Geoff

Pete Generally I think the only negative comments you will find about a Lokka are from people who dont have one. The feedback posts I have read from Lokka owners, including myself all seem to indicate they are more than happy with their purchase. Tom has told a few people that you dont need FWHs which is true but they eliminate the small amount of steering self centering generated particularly when on the black top. The guys here in Oz are importing Warn and AVM hubs from the US for around $180 Au. So I would imaging they are around $130 to $150 over there. Geoff

I hate to say it, but your problem may being caused by something mechanically damaged inside the box. The electrics are saying their Ok but they may not be detecting a mechanical problem. Hope I am wrong, but it may be time to get it checked by a transmission shop. Geoff

I can feed the fridge from the main battery using a voltage cutout relay that isolates the main battery when its voltage goes below 10.7volts. I can turn this feed on via a switch on the dash. This way the fridge draws from the combined capacity of both batteries but the main is protected from discharging to low. I also figure the low voltage cut out function in the Waeco fridge should provide further back up protection for the main battery as well. Geoff

Yes its great having back up battery. I also use the extra capacity to run a portable 12volt Waeco fridge/freezer unit. These units use a compressor system and are very efficient but they will flatten a battery after 2 to 3 days unless you do a reasonable long drive each day. The second battery is a AGM type deep cycle which have the advantage of being able to be recharged quickly and can drop to lower voltages without internal degrading. It powers the fridge only and I run the 12 volt lights of the main battery. My next thing to buy on the list is a solar power charging setup to help reduce the need to run the vehicle at all. There is some good, down to earth information available about battery types, solar set ups and lots more at www.fridge-and-solar.net Click on the boxes at the top for information on the items and use the various links in the text for detailed info Geoff

Hi , I've had a request to post some photos of my dual battery set up. The brand is called "Piranha" as in the nasty fish. It is basically a pair of flat steel plates with the edges bent up and welded together along one side. A small bit of flat steel is welded on to the front fender side of the outside tray to pick up an existing earth bolt for mounting purposes. The unit fits on top of the battery tray and is secured by 3 countersunk bolts. 2 of the bolts use existing holes and the 3rd requires a hole to be drilled. The only other mounting requirement is to bend the existing rear holddown bracket down and out the way. I also had to remove a large electric cable securing bracket from behind the battery to get enough length for the earth terminal to reach. To reduce the amount of heat being transfered to the inner battery from the radiator return pipe, I fitted a aluminium heat shield. I also fitted one on the air cond filter/dryer. The charging of the second battery is controlled by a electronic unit that charges the starting battery first then begins to charge the second. When the engine is switched off the batteries are isolated. Mounting the control unit was a bit of a challenge but it just fitted behind the cruise control unit. The control unit squeezed into position Geoff

Yes No4 is what I am talking about. As for a Vq35.... the boy racer in me whole heartily agrees with you (we never got the Vq35 in Oz) But when you start to pay around $1.80 to $2.00 a litre or more ($7.50 to $8.50 roughly a US gallon) once you head inland and if towing a heavy trailer the ZD30 is the way to go. Some of the guys here with Vq40s in the R51s are reporting frightning fuel consumptions when towing I am not sure of the exact figures but I think they are selling more than double the number of new diesel R51s than petrols here in Oz Geoff

It sounds like our Oz R50s use a different mounting block to yours or are you guys fitting an aftermarket mounting block that has a bearing mounted in it ? There are no bearings in our mounting block just a steel sleeve moulded to the rubber. The strut shaft fits into a keyway in the steel sleeve to stop it turning and is secured by a locknut on top. The strut shaft doesnt rotate, rather the spring mounting plate (and the rest of the strut) rotate around it. The plastic washer is sandwiched between the spring plate and the bottom of the mounting block and acts as a bearing surface. Pete, I still use the factory LSD in the rear. Combined with the Lokka up front it works well. While it may not have as much traction as an air locker ,you dont need to think when to engage it. We used to be able to get Japanese performance parts in Oz up until 1999 when the federal gov banned the importing of Jap second hand vehicles that had an equivalent vehicle sold new here. This was to protect the resale value of the Oz delivered vehicles. There where a lot of parts being imported with these vehicles to support them. But since the ban not many companies bother to bring them in as there is just not the demand without the vehicles. It is a pain because I would have loved to have imported an R50 fitted with the ZD30 intercooled turbo diesel which are a really great truck. Geoff

This washer sits on top of the spring holder plate and is around 1-1/2 to 2 inches in dia. The shaft comes up through it and into the rubber mounting block. This washer has all the weigh of the vehicle sitting on it and its job is to allow the spring mount plate (and the rest of the strut) to turn. Without it, the inner metal part of the mounting bush would be rubbing directly on the metal top of the spring plate which would soon destroy the rubber. Lokka diff kits are sold by 4WD systems located in South Aust The export around the world according to their site. http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/html/lokka.htm The modification to the diff gears can be installed buy anyone with at least a bit of mechanical knowledge and access to a good set of tools. I have had mine for 6 years and was in my previous R50 ( I swapped the complete diff housings over) Geoff

Pete Was the large plastic washer that sits between the top of the strut shaft and the rubber mount plate still there? This washer acts as a bearing surface and allows the strut to turn easily. Without it the strut will still turn but there is a lot more drag which I imagine will eventually cause damage to the rubber. Geoff

I would go for the lift first and put a LSD in the rear. At least you will be able to steer it and keep control. A locker only works when you have it engaged. The LSD may not provide as much traction but it is working for you all the time. It just depends on what sort of 4WD driving you do I have found my Lokka front diff and rear LSD a good combination. Although the Lokka on one trip got to much traction and caused a steering tie rod to bend like a banana ( both front wheels pointing inwards) Geoff

Thanks guys, its one of the last R50s off the production line and has a few extra trim features not on the previous Australian sold vehicles. They really are a great under rated vehicle that are surprisingly capable offroad As for a Lada Niva 4WD, they are best summed up as Russia's revenge for losing the cold war They were a 1950/60s designed 4wd still being sold new well into the 1980s. and possibly the 90s They where not up to even moderate Australia conditions, and had some serious engineering shortcomings. Unfortunately my misguided father loved them, and we even ended up off road racing a heavily modified one for a local dealer for some years Geoff

Hi there, I am new to the NPORA forum but I am a regular poster to the PCOA forum here in OZ This is my 2nd R50 and my 4th Nissan 4WD. I had various other 4WDs including 3 Mitsubishi Pajeros, a Diahatsu F20, and I hate to admit, I inherited a Lada Niva but I would rather not talk about it My R50 has a few mods at this stage including a Lokka front diff, Nissan free wheeling hubs, Bilstein shocks, 30mm lift springs, Nissan alloy bar, Dual battery system, a K&N air filter and custom air inlet pipe to help it breath. I have yet to fit my bash plate and strengthed side steps off my old R50. When out 4WD driving I fit a set of 31-10.5-15 BFG ATs to help get the best out of the Lokka diff. We have some great 4WD locations around Brisbane. My favorite is beach driving on the various sand islands off our coast. You just cant beat setting up the campa trailer on a white sandy beach and watching the sun go down over the water with a fishing rod in one hand and a beer in the other Here are a few pics and I look forward to catching up with you guys Geoff