Andrizzle

where the hell do you live where you need rolls of Barbed-Wire placed onto 7 foot walls and have every window and A/C Unit barred out. jesus lol ANd I say don't touch ur car. It looks very classy as it is

Are you saying put a pulley on top of the alternators existing pulley? then running a belt to another alt off that? Interesting... but I dont think that would work. I dont think there is even enough room down there to add a second alt without major fab work. The onyl thing i can think of is sacrificing your AC to add an alt. Even that will require a elaborate bracket of some sort

Well it has been cold as crap lately. And I have been running out of light so I haven't messed with it yet. But I will get to it tomorow most likely. I would add a second alt, but the fabrication to mount another alt would probbaly cost alot of money. And I am happy with what I have now, but down the road if I ever go even more hardcore into the Car Audio scene I defintely would consider it. Do you have exprience with it or something?

Okay Im going to play around with them tomorow

I already have the alt. I've had it for over 2 years. Its 200amp from Iraggi Alternators. So the screw facing the Sky adjusts warm up idle. And the screw facing the passenger side adjusts Running Idle speed? Is this correct?

I've got the smallest pulley possible on it already. Every 0.01 of a volt counts for me. (car audio competitor). This is the reason I have the HO Alt in the first place. I have 5 batteries in my car to charge! So the adjuster facing the sky is to adjust what eactly?

1988 3.0L SE Okay hey everyone. It has been a while since I posted. My last problem I had with horrible stuttering and poor idle was finally put to an end with a dist. and new plugs. Unfortunately I didnt have time to do this myself - so I got rocked by a mechanic. Anyways, 300 dollars later my pathfinder seems ot be running great! The only problem I have now is - they readjusted my idle speeds and I do not like it. I have a High Output alternator and it really only starts putting out major voltage @ 1000 RPM+. This is what my car used to idle @ before taking it to the shop. SO when I got my car back, I went for a test drive, every dtoplight with some type of electircal load would drop my voltage to the low 13s range. My lights would all dim, and once i tapped the gas, brightness! So I have been playing with the idle speed (the screw facing my passenger side). And I can get it to a point where it doesnt drop when in gear (like @ a stoplight). But then when I put it in park -its wayyyy too high 2k RPM range. So I am wanting the higher voltage while in gear and on the brakes - But make it not jump up so high when in Park. It seems every turn on that screw - doesnt have any affect until almost a full turn - which then it jumps up considerably. Any ideas on how to acheive what I want? There is a screw in front of the screw I have been adjusting, but it faces the sky? What is this adjuster?

WOOT! with the wheel off it was about a 5 minute job.... Wow. Thanks guys! pulled the old unit and its entirely rotted out around the plug. The new one I got is a pretty nice one, It was about 45 bucks. From Oreileys, probbaly could have gotten it online for about 24, but I needed my car fixed ASAP. Once again thanks for the suggestions. 20 year old car so Ill probably be here with a new thread for another problem later! lol

Okay Im going to try one last try. Im gunna see if I can get it with the wheel off... Although its scary to be under a vehicle while its jacked. Oh and that is only if I can get the wheel off.. The last guys who did my tires torqued the @!*% outta them.... will be VERY tight

I have one. Its like one that has no slip, grip when it latches around something and u turn it. I cant get the angle from the top, to go around the manifold and up and over the sensor

Okay I spent most of the day trying to get to the Unit... I can't do it... Its too crammed. I even turned my wheel all the way to the left and sat up inside of the wheel well and tried to get a wrench in there.. Its basically impossible without a lift... What sucks most is I can get so close to it, I had my face about 12 inches from the part, but couldnt get a wrench to it with the way it was setup down there.... screw nissan, seriously lol. I did get a really good look @ it though, and the thing is basically coroded out and I can see the fresh oil slowly seaping out of it while the car is off. Its leaking where the plastic peice w/ the wire goes into the base of the sensor. SUCKS Guess i'm going to have to take it to a mechanic on Monday to get ass-pounded in labor fees. I am going to bring my own part, just hope his business is doing well and he feels okay with not letting me get rocked on charges.

Yea I just saw the part its about 20 bucks. I don't see how this 'failing' causes a leak. It looks like its just a bolt. If i unscrew it, will oil come rushing out I wonder? lol better grab a pan tomorow just in case!

Now that I think about it, the light was NOT on when the wire weas disconnected... I dont think I have ever seen that light on except for on ACC. mode

Well you've been a great help! I am not sure if I can change it myself becuasse of the access to that area... it was hard enough just to take pictures! I will take a better look tomorow

So is it possible for this thing to pour out oil if the wire is not connected? I mean when I initially looked, the wire was dangling and not in anything.... I searched around and put it into this 'plug' i keep calling it. I dont even know if it is in there correctly... But is this oil pressure send unit suposed to have a wire?