dhardison
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Posts posted by dhardison
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I've always had good luck with mine since I switched to 5w-30w synthetic oil. It was a trick I learned from the Miata forums a few years ago, the girlfriend and I used to keep a Miata around for summer night cruising, sorta like an MG that won't leave you stranded. Older Miatas have notoriously noisy lifters on a cold start.
Synthetic oil holds it viscosity better than dinosaur oil so it really is thin 5w on a cold start and can flow through the sludge. The downside, as has been mentioned in these forums, it can cause leaks and higher oil consumption in high mileage engines. If you notice either of these symptoms change back.
I'm just glad my Pathfinder VG's still kickin so strong at 200k to have this problem. I expect nothing less from Nissan.
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cut it off at the first wrinkle so that way it doesent show at all thats what i did
That would get my vote.
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It just me or does that mini look like a new fj with out the sueacide doors on it...If this is what the new cars are All going to look like I'm never going to buy any thing newer then '03...
Mazdas with a big smiley face, flame surfaced BMWs, Acuras, VWs and others with big strips of chrome across the grill for what purpose? Even my current Z with it's shark teeth grill and goofy single rear fog light that looks like a receiver hitch. I could go on and on but the point is for all the giant leaps in technology vehicle styling seems to be getting worse.
Have all the good designs been taken? Or maybe just reserved for cars I can't even afford to think about.
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I always said there would be some downsides for taking that Renault money in the 90's to avoid bankruptcy.
And for moving the USA corporate office to Tennessee.
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Dharidson, would you mind telling me if your dash mounted fog light switch is mounted in a round or semi-circle shaped hole. The plug (where the dash mounted switch would go in my) is fitted into a semicircle shaped hole, but the switch won't fit into it without some drilling, and I don't want to drill unless needed.
Sorry I can't tell without taking it out and like a lot of other electrical related stuff on this truck it looks like a royal pain to get it out. At least to my mechanical challenged butt anyway.
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It looks like a factory switch in person and you can see from these photos all my rocker positions are filled by other options.
Photo 1 left side: Rear Defrost, Cruise Control Master Switch, Power Hatch Release
Photo 2 right side: Hazard Flasher, Rear Wiper, Tranny Control
Photo 3 console: Shock Setting Selector, Alarm Switch, Left and Right Seat Heaters
An interesting note is if the rocker was mounted on the console and the seat heater switches forced mine to use the dash mounted switch then it seems they had to use a different wiring harness with the foglight connector in a different place just for pathfinders optioned like this.
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My 93 has the round switch mounted under the steering column but I've seen other 93's with the rocker switch. I don't think there is a wrong answer. The rocker switch was the first choice but if the knock-out plugs in the dash or console were taken up by other option switches the round switch was used.
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I may be wrong but I always thought that a quick way to check your brake booster and check valve for leaks is there should be enough vacuum stored for one power assisted pedal push after you shut off the engine and wait a minute or so.
If you get a hard pedal the first time you push the pedal after you shut the engine down then you have a leak somewhere.
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do the weathertech ones fit well?
The passenger weather tech fits perfect but the drivers side has a terrible fit. Almost made me want to send them back. At least they are typical weathertech quality but it's obvious that our trucks are too old for them to do a true custom application. Go to my website and look at the interior shots of my truck and you can see what I'm talking about. It almost looks like I've got them reversed but changing sides makes them fit worse. 93 Pathfinder
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On Craigslist 94 Pathfinder engine turns, won't start, was running when parked
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just ordered one of these
http://www.idealtruevalue.com/servlet/the-141737/Detail
lets see how good it works out
I've got a couple of those from back when I had a 93 and a 95 but there was just too much space between the seats and the console too wedge it in for a good fit. It kept tilting back to match the curve of the seat bottom so the drink wouldn't stay upright. I guess you could drill a hole in the side of the console and secure it better but it needs to move some to get access to the seat belt buckle. Just my 2 cents.
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I've noticed from time to time people ask questions about the factory alarm and key fob operation. I finally took the time to scan my supplement to the owners manual and saved it as a PDF File for download for anybody that is interested. Hope everybody has a great Christmas.
Download it from this link
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No WD had 16s stock, and the LE had non-lego alloys.
Here is a craigslist link to a 95 that's for sale in my area with the non lego LE alloys.
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I was looking at the pictures.
The markings on the differntial housing make it look to me that it was possibly a salvage yard part. Not a deal breaker but something to take a closer look at.
A little surface rust on it but it is 21 years old. Form the pictures there didnt seem to be any that has beaten through, just surface rust than can be cleaned up.
It is a salvage yard part and those are salvage paint markings but everything else under there seems to be original almost to a fault. The pictures make the surface rust look worse than it really is.
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A few questions??
1) Do you have strict smog laws where it would be registered?
2) What would it's use be?
3) Do you have enough parking where you live?
B
I could register it in a neighboring county and not have to smog test but it's got current smog registration with the converter still hooked up and no CEL codes so I could go either way.
I'm undecided about use, this could either be the Pathfinder that I finally setup for off-road, or restore it to factory specs and looks and just do my part to save a non rusted 2 door from the crusher. I could even see myself turning this into a long term project and painting it Platinum Graphite to match the Z and getting my upholstery guy to strip the interior, redye the trim pieces black, and stitching the seats in black leather.
Parking is no problem.
I just can't believe how strong the motor and tranny seem to be considering the mileage.
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So I ran across this pretty solid 88 today at a country used car lot. 287k miles and it drives and runs great. Never really been molested and everything works except the cruise, alarm, and electric shocks. Sitting here tonight it's calling out to me "buy me" "save me". I need a project like a hole in the head. They want $1400 but I think they would take $1100. Has a few typical issues like noisy blower motor, sagging drivers door but overall I'm impressed. HELP, TALK ME OUT OF IT.
What's that wire and plug that's hanging down supposed to plug into.
Here are some pics www.dhardison.com/88path
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I do recommend you getting the factory studs, as they are studs from the turbo motor in the 300zx.
Kept mine going for 15 years and 193,000 miles -
Try a can of 104 octane boost as a quick cheap way to rule out any detonation related issues.
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Once I do this, will it ever likely start leaking again ?
I've got two service tickets from 1995 where the left and right sides were replaced about 3 months apart under the regular Nissan warranty when my truck was 2 years old. Now 15 years later mine are still quiet and tight so yes there is hope that a one time fix is permanent.
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I've never had a compressor go out on any car or truck I've owned nor have I ever had to charge the system. I'm a firm believer that the main reason is because I frequently use the compressor year round. Of course in the summer for A/C but also in the winter to help the defrost do a better job. Just think it keeps all the seals and bearings lubricated and stuff.
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Just don't let my passengers see this and give them some hope that they could ride with me without the center arm rest being open all the time
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I'd like to see somebody try it and post pics but I think edicer2 is right about the clearance issues.
I also think that when Nissan started really taking heat from the road reviews about how slow their trucks had become compared to some of the competition there was a reason they chose to supercharge instead of turbocharge.
Good luck if you go through with it though because I'm sure I'm not the only one that's daydreamed about having a wd21 pumping out 250+ hp.
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I believe the wiring goes like this:
Fuse panel /ground somewhere -> seat (all wd21s have this wire with a blue plug under their seat) --> switch (there are 2 plugs on my seat, the one on the floor fit into one side, and I assume that the other plug is for the section of wiring to go to the switch.
Hey Dhardison, does that orange-ish part of your switch light up when you turn on the heat?
Ran across this old post today and wanted to correct my reply. I turned on my seat heat for the first time this year and yes the orange center section does light up when they are on. When I replied in August I was thinking about my old 350z which didn't have lighted indicators. They've changed that on the 370's to lighted indicators.
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I've just had it with Autozone parts in general. The only good thing about that store is they are open long hours...
Has anyone else had this trouble with starters ? What could have caused this failure ? Thank GOD I was able to bump start my pathy...
On an unrelated note my heater / ac controls section is dark. Is there a tiny bulb back there to replace ? I hate takin' that thing apart...
I went out of my way and paid more money a few days ago to get a new Interstate battery for my truck before cold weather sets in. Nothing screams CHEAP like opening a hood and seeing a Durabrand battery. Also my heat / ac controls backlight is out too but it hasn't bothered me enough to tear into the dash yet.
Factory Alarm Keyfob
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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It's a keyless entry too. There are people in the forum who have bought the generic keyless module off ebay and programed them to work. I bought a new old stock factory Nissan fob off ebay and programed it to work. I had my original fob but the plastic was cracked and it wouldn't stay attached to my key chain.
The programing instructions are posted in the forum garage section I think. You program your receiver box under the drivers seat to accept the code from the fob. The fob code is fixed. Not the other way around like you might think.