azscott
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Posts posted by azscott
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I also have pacesetter, thay went up nice untell the y pipe did not mach at all to the cat. Had a guy weld me up a new y pipe. Turns out that summit sent me the wrong ones. It was for a auto not a 5 speed, but turnd out nice. The only thing i had to modify (beat down) was the right side heat sheld to the moter mount and of course the egr tube.
That sounds good. I took it over to my mechaic yesterday to have him weld back the tailpipe that got yanked out and we looked at the rest of the exhaust and it needs to come out anyway. There is a small header leak on the right side...can't see it but can hear it and we all know that it is 99% chance it is broken bolts.
For now I will drive it as is and sae up money for headers and cat exhaust. It is slightly anooying to hear the leak but nothing terrible...just hate the tapping more than anything else.
Between this one and my 87 Pathy Sport that needs a new tranny and clutch...I should be broke for a while:-) The one nice thing is that 87 is in sweet shape overall...previous owner was anal over it's care.....garaged it for 21 years straight! plus being in Az we don't have rust...yeah!
scott
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Personal suggestion is since you already got the tranny out, put a new clutch in, but not everyone has money to spend on what they don't nesecarrly need. When my trans started giving me issues in my old HB it all started with 4th gear so it could be signs of internal issues. As for clutch adjustment, you have a little bit of adjustment at the pedal by pulling the pin for the clutch master cyl. and spinning the connector one way or the other on the threads. Other than that and a good bleed, there really isn't much else to adjust, it being a hydraulic setup.
Yah...since it is out I will replace the clutch anyway...not going to cost that much more. Just odd that it only does it in 4th gear.
I have tried to get it to do it in the first three gears but it won't. It does it in 4th if you are upshifting and accelerating as from a stop. If you are in 4th alreayd and just stomp on it it won't slip. I tried a bunch of things and if I upshift and let off the clutch and wait a few secs before accelerating it usually won't do it...but it will if you shift normally and accelerate just as you let of the clutch......the RPMS climb...the SPeedo doesn't and when you let of the gas you feel the pathy sorta jump or bump as the rpms drop a bit and the clutch catches and stops slipping.
But oh well...new clutch and used tranny going in anyway.....maybe when we take it off we will see.
I thought maybe there is some kind of minor oil leak that only falls back on the clutch plate while accelerating from a stop where you get to 4th gear quickly. Who knows....we will see.
Thanks guys
Scott
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Even if L&P is still around or pops back up at a later date, if Phil is still there then the risk is very high getting anything from them.
That's right....I followed that thread for a long while about L&P. I have just read SO many posts I lost track of who it was that had such a bad rep.
Well Hooha it is then.
scott
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Not that i mind buying one....but I need to replace mine. I had my mechanic look at my suspensions while they were welding part of my exhaust back on. He said the ceterlink was bad...the rest was fine. So i said well let me see what is a better choice than the stock one as I know it is weak.
Am I correct that L&P is not around...?
scott
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A new OEM clutch would be the best way to go. The factory pathfinder clutches could take way more than what centerforce has to offer for the pathfinder.
Cool....I was not going the Centerforce route...too much money...and I figured an OEM would be just fine anyway.
scott
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I edited this thread to ask a different question....as I am not familiar with Pathfinder clutches and it has been...ohh...25 years since I replaced a clutch ( 1963 Ford Falcon Ranchero).
I am having my transmission replaced with a good used one as mine has 210K on it and the synchro in 3rd is gone.
Anyway, I am not sure if there is also a clutch problem and I know the clutch was replaced about 80K or so ago. First off the clutch does not fully engage until the pedal is almost all the way out......but would this be an adjustment issue? Also and more like a cltch issue is that it seems to slip in 4th gear only . Kind of odd in that it does not seem to do it in 1st or second but in 4th gear when i accelerate hard after shifting. I would have thought it would be worse in 1st or second but does not seem to do it then.
Since the tranny will be out I will have it looked at but just seems odd and I am not sure if the pedal having to be almost fully released to get full engagement is a clutch or simple adjustment of something in the clutch.hydraulic setup.
Last what is a good replacement clutch ( from original post)
scott
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First off i have read quite a few threads on the header bolt problems and for the most part I am all set. My headers are making the typical tapping sound and I can hear a slight leak so i am getting ready to replace the headers and while I am at it and since the system is old I might as well replace the rest of the system.
My question is this. Which headers have you guys found to be the the easiest to install as far as not having to do any modifications. I looked at quite a few and they always say modifications may be needed. I would like to put a catback exhaust on if I can while I am at it. However the goal is to try and keep it as simple as possible and try to achieve as close to straight bolt on procedure as possible and avoid uneeded welding and such.
If anyone has advice as to which makers headers and exhaust was fairlt straightforward i would appreciate it. I do not have to try and gain performance but it would be nice also...mainly though I want to shut up the annoying leak and tapping.
Maybe the few exhaust options out there are all fairly straightforward and that would be great I just have no idea and I have run into a real Pain in the @ss exhaust job once on an old Camaro and regretted ever starting the job myself:-(
Scott
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I used cutting boards and self tapping bolts for skids on my 88.
...Huh.....cutting boards...pretty sharp idea....I assume you refer to the thick plastic type obviously.
Will have to look at that......did I see you mention that in another thread...seems like it sounds familiar now?
Scott
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I just did the JGC lift and thats all you need with 31's ...Just put a decent pair of rock sliders on and its a done deal...real nice and easy. No bl needed.
Yah I may go that route...I really do not want to start introducing excessive wear and failure when i drive it daily for work also.
So JGC springs in the rear and crank the front T-bars up a bit but not enough to require new arms.
scott
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yep, you can 'unlock' a bit more travel out of the rear end by adding some longer shocks and removing the rear sway bar, but I don't think there is a kit out there that will give the trucks more articulation. You can make longer rear links like some other members have done.
get some under armor and sliders.. then you don't need the clearance
Speaking of under armor and sliders...is there a link for skid plates for the Pathfinder.....I have looked quite a bit and have had a hard time finding either sliders or under armor for the older Paths. I saw Calmini had some plates but was not sure if those were only for use with their crossmember replacements or not.
I know many make their own.
scott
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Like I said, it will get your body work up higher away from being so easily rock damaged. BTW, you will not gain ANY articulation from any SL, if anything you can loose some in the rear (thicker/taller springs can't compress as much).
Good information....I appreciate all of this. I do not plan on putting my Path to extremes....we abuse ATV's for that...however we are not just 4x4ing on simple dirt roads.....usually the toughest is having to divert through dry creek beds and runnig up them for a few miles usually only presents moderate size rockage:-)
Maybe a mild T-bar crank....a BL and some JGC springs would be enough?
Again I appreciate any input.
Scott
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Well is it smarter to just do a body lift. It would seem this would not do much for clearance unless you put bigger tires..which i am not intending on.....would look cool....but looks don't get me over rocks.
It is a sort of dilema....gain clearance and some articulation...loose longevity on some drive train parts.
I suppose BL would help to keep the front tires from bottoming on the fenders which is half my issue...and I do not want to just crank up the T-bars as a sole fix.
is there an advantage to just doing a BL...besides looking cool...?
scott
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Here is the link for the Hoohaa centerlink.
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From what I have heard, is that the Calmini steering system is good, but expensive. You may want to look into a HooHa centerlink. He has a website, but I cant remember what it is at the moment. Much cheaper though in price. Still, I think the idler arm brace is a must.
Took a few searches on google was tough to find his website...but it is linked below. Much cheaper than a Calmini solution...about a 1/3.
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With any suspension lift, and consequently, bigger tires, you'll need upgraded steering. The stock crap can't handle larger tires, let alone the stock 31's on some WD21 Pathfinders
Is thisa the centerlink upgrade? If so L&P is out...the only other I saw was Calmini.? I know that they sell just an idler arm brace to help....although I wonder if it is just a bandaid fix instead of just upgrading the whole thing?
I have an 87 Pathy with Sport package so it has stock 31's which I will keep.
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After spending oh...3 months reading as much as I could on the ups and downs and benefits of a BL verses SL I still have a couple questions.
While there are many threads on what the gains are in any type of lift I am looking for the side affects and the related fixes that should be planned (if any) for a suspension lift.
So first off I was planning on have a Calmini 3" SL put in....I can't do it myself do to time and more so..lack of tools and space in my dinky garage. FIne....the 4x4 shop said they would instal the kit ( I supply the kit) and do a full Alignment for $370.00. That will work for me.
However what are the considerations that need to be looked at when doing this. At some point it will have an adverse effect on steering and possibly CV joints...depending on how much lift and type of offroading. For me I will be using this as a DD as well ass offroad use.
However, I am not rock climbing.....I am using it to access areas on unimproved dirt roads....or basically general off road apps.
What should I look at or watch out for with the lift...do i need to think about any stearing upgrades or is this more of an issue with hard core rock crawling.
Nothing worse than spending money to do a mod and then finding out there are several others that need to be considered to counter side affects.
I could not find a good thread on this?
Or...is a BL a betetr idea...I need clearance over rocks...huge wash outs and such yet I need to drive this to work also.
Scott
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ditto, sliders have saved my doors from several dents.
I was looking for some rock sliders for my 87 Pathy......where did you get them from. Are they specific for the year amd model or ones that are a generic fit?
Scott
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There's another bolt (or two maybe) at the top of the housing. You also have to go under the hood and unscrew the high side and low side refrigerant lines at the firewall. I'm assuming you don't have any refrigerant in the system. Otherwise it will need to be recovered. There is a small plate that bolts to the firewall that secures the two refrigerant lines. Remove the plate and the rubber bushing. Once you've done that and gotten the top bolt out of the housing, the whole evaporator/expansion valve housing can be wiggled out from between the ductwork.
Thanks...that helps...was pretty sure there had to be another bolt somewhere up top.
Scott
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I took the glove box out and removed the metal panel. Behind that ios the plastic box the encloses the condensor and expansion valve. . I removed the metal clips around the halfs of the nox and then loosened the two bolts under neath that screw to the firewall....but dangit I cannot get that encloser to come off.
How does that stupid plastic cover come off. Do have to remove the blower to the right or is there other fasteners I am overlooking. I tried to look in the early 90's manuals online but it does not show much.
Anyone have a clue.
Scott
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Where is the idle adj. screw on the ECU...I just see a switch? Mine idles at like 1200 and I would like to bring it donw some.
scott
I looked more carefully.Idles at 750 rpm most of the time, even with the air-conditioning on.
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My 87 has a manual transmission.......now I do not have any wine as related to the TSB in the sticky notes above but.......it does like to pop out of third gear when you let off the gas. As long as you are not coasting in 3rd it is fine.....so under acceleration no problem.
I did read the entire TSB thread above and so was curious as to what may be causing this. I did not worry about it at first as it is not an issue and...I don't have any whine.
I know the previous owner took it to Nissan regularly for service and fluid changes....he had the entire drivetrain fluids changed a few years ago..although I don't see what type they used in the service receipt.
Anyway...I will change the transmission fluid per ther TSB spec but any thoughts on what causes it to opo out of 3rd while decelerating.
Scott
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I decided I will just replace the compressor, drier and expansion valve myself. I have the parts but not sure on the oil replacement.
I am staying with r-12 so i will keep the mineral oil....but how much oil is supposed to be in the compressor and I read the drier needs oil put in it if replaced.
Is there any place to find specs for this or does someone here know that replaced their compressor and drier.
I don't want to add to much or even short the system of oil.
Scott
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Could be the relay for sure......but.........
Be sure you have good connections on the battery...not just tight but also not full of lead oxides (white fluffy crap). Also check the cable from the battery to ground and the positive to the main relay.
now I say this as over the years I have run into this many times on many cars...fords...nissans..mazda....toyota whatever. Half the time the starter relay is bad but the rest it is a connection right at the battery or one of the battery cables on the car end.
Last year the dumbass dealer on my ford replaced the starter said it was bad and the alternator.....accept it did it again. i troubleshot it myself and found the ground cable from the battery loose where it is grounded to the vehicle. the dealer had taken this off on a previous repair and never tightened it.
So before changing the starter check all of this first...takes just a few minutes.
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He Azscott.
This is your problem. My old 1990 pathfinder was doing the same thing as yours, It can be thought of as a clogg. This thing has an orifice that opens and closes to let the freon into the evaporator. It has a temp probe that will open and close the orifice depending on the temperature in the evaporator. It is a bit of work to replace (have to pull the box) and you will have to discharge the entire system. I did the repair myself but then again I have a friend with all the equipment. At least Knowing how much the part costs will help you not get screwed on the repair.
http://www.autozone.com/R,1440377/vehicleI...oductDetail.htm
Mark
Edit: Just saw that mws suggested the same thing. Right on the money!!
another thing to take note of. If your evaporator is full of leaves (common problem) your evaporator will freeze up and cause the expansion valve to close down (this is normal operation for the expansion valve) due to limited air flow warming the evaporator. I noticed my evaporator was full of crap when I pulled the box to replace the valve.
By the way...I assume the orifice is in the Expansion vale assembly..am i correct. I did follow the link to autozone but it just came up with a zip code request..when I did that the part that came up was a window motor...?
Scott
2-Doors
in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Funny this thread came up as I was curious too. I am going to look at a 1990 2 door that is available locally, rebuilt motor and tranny. Looks pretty sharp.
scott