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Thanks My1Path I had the wrong nut holding the pulley on and I think it helped grenade the ball bearings in idler pulley. I went to the jy and got a new one - works like a charm.

Ok I have a dumb question - is the tensioner pulley supposed to rotate with the belt? I had never really looked until I needed to at whether or not it did. When I originally put the new belt on it did not move. When I tightened the belt this morning it began moving and it did start blowing colder but certainly not at full efficiency and there was a nasty noise coming from the friction between the tensioner plate and the pulley itself.

Thanks everybody, will do. Have a great 4th everyone!

Hey everybody So my girlfriend and I are on an 18 day road trip throughout the Southwest U.S. Needless to say, it is freakin hot!! The a/c belt had started spitting rubber toward the air filter box and eventually snapped on I-70. I got a couple replacements and adjusted the tensioner pulley so it wouldn't do that anymore and since then it has squeaked when we're going 80 on the highway but has not flung any rubber. I'm new to changing belts and I was able to figure it out quickly and all in the Checker parking lot, but maybe I missed something and that's why it's still squeaking. I did use belt conditioner any that seemed to work for a little but the squeak came back. Anyway, the thing is that now the a/c belt spins at normal speed when the compressor is clicked 'off', but when i click it 'on' and the clutch engages the belt slows way down, to maybe the equivalent of 2-3 rotations per minute and obviously doesn't cool the car. Has anybody experienced this and if so what causes it? We are currently in Vegas and the 110 degree heat is a reminder of just how awesome it is to have a/c in the car. Any help would be awesome

My1Path what is the controversy surrounding the grade 8 bolts? The local Ace has the standard grade 5 bolts at the 14mm x 1.5 60mm length but I don't want to use them if they're going to pose an issue. So I guess what I'm asking is will I be okay if I use the grade 5 bolts or should I special order the stuff for the grade 8s?

Thanks to all you guys for the responses! Sounds like I need to call around and get and old school guy who knows what he's doing. We have like 20 Firestones in the Denver metro area, and it sounds like I'll need to go through most of that list to find a halfway decent alignment guy. Now I have some background knowledge on how it all works so I've got some ammo when they give me the run around bs. Thanks everybody. And jj, where did you find your info on how to align stuff yourself? Was there a source that helped more than the rest? In the mean time i'll do some googling..

Thanks for the reply Adamzan. I spoke with a guy at Firestone about keeping the torsion bars cranked and just adding shims to it and told me that adding shims would mess up the caster. I would guess something then could be done to adjust caster, but idk. Is there any validity to that statement, and/or is he just taking the easy route and not wanting to do it correctly?

Happy Friday everybody! So I had cranked my t-bars to help even out the front and back a bit and I took it to the alignment shop to get everything straightened out. Well, when I went to pick it up I noticed the ride height being back to be where I had it before the crank. My question is to you guys with the t-bars cranked - how is your front wheel alignment? Do you just live with the camber issues or how do you get it decently aligned up front with the t-bars still cranked? I have the 3+3 and the front is sitting way uneven right now and it looks kinda goofy . I got the lifetime alignment thing through Firestone so I can/will go back as many times as necessary to get things evened out, but I'm looking for some advice on how/if a decently aligned vehicle is achievable with the cranked t-bars. Thanks everyone David

Doh! Ended up being the terminals just needed a cleaning will clean em every time I take the battery out now. Thanks B and Nunya!

Thanks B, will check everything out this evening.

Hey everybody, So I followed the how-to for the body lift and everything worked out awesome (thanks guys!) but when i put the battery back in and turned the key in the ignition nothing happened. No click, no turning over, nothing. I noticed that none of my accessories in the vehicle work either (radio, dome light), however the clock does work. The clock only works until I turn the key in the ignition, then it cuts out too. I was thinking it may be something as simple as a battery issue or maybe I messed up/forgot to reattach some connection along the line. The whole 'not even a click when I turn the key' is what has me confused the most. If someone with far more knowledge about this stuff than I could help me out, I would really appreciate it! David