schro
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Posts posted by schro
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From browsing through the factory service manual I noted that the position/setting of the steering bump stops on the steering knuckle need to be adjusted slightly when you go to 31x10.5 tires. This setting will slightly adjust your steering angle, and consequently increase your turning radius.
(snapshot from service manual)
I imagine that some of the other members on this forum have gone to larger tires without making the steering stop adjustment, and I would be interested to find out what if any problems they have experienced (ie: what rubbed?)
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that looks pretty cool.
my pathfinder would still be under 6' 10'' with that on top.
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I put the bolt in, re-added the Lucas Oil conditioner, and put what was left of the 4 qt container I bought (about 2 quarts) in... I came out with just the VERY tip of the dipstick covered. Quick trip to Adv. Auto, bought a quart, threw it in... I couldn't have gotten the level more perfect if I actually tried XD
Ummmm... you did warm the engine up to operating temperature and check the oil level when it was warm... didn't you? (Or did you do your trip to Adv. Auto in another vehicle?)
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What is "seafoam"?
link?
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188K and counting. Runs great!
got it a little over a year ago with 147000.... may not last long (sob!)
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Anyone up for a wheeling trip either of those days? If so how about Veeder Mountain?
Can't, but I'd like to come so post again when you go out.
This weekend I'm going backcountry skiing!! (gotta get it while we still gots snow)
I'd like to also do a 'Pick A Part' run if I got the time
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What do you think about cargo racks for off roading, added height more weight but is it really a negitive. Anyone know where one might be able to pick one up for a good price? And what size tire can you fit in it?
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Lots of trees in the 'Wack. With lots of grabby branches. If everything fits, I would just put it all inside (lots of space)
But...cargo racks do look cool...And if you are adding lights up there it's no different to your clearance (must parking garages are 6'10", if it's any less be carefull!)
Crappy tire sells a cargo rack. Doesn't look the best, but not too shabby, and relatively cheap. If you got the $ check out "Rack Attack" on west 3rd. Ave in Vancouver, they sell Thule and Yakima
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So how hard is it? Wanting to put in the front and rear speakers, anything I should know about other than matching up the right wires?
In my case it was (or rather - is, as in still in progress) a lot of work. I have a '95 with the 8 speaker factory Clarion system, with 2 blown speakers.
The speakers I purchased (5" x 7") were not compatible with the factory sizes. I pulled the ceiling liner out to remove the metal speaker mounting in the rear. Marked and cut out the new holes with a sabre saw. The replacement speaker grills did not cover the existing holes in the ceiling liner, so I fabricated some flanges that match the new grills colour to cover the voids in the liner. I removed the factory amps and ran new wires directly from the head unit. In the rear I will just use the new 2 way speakers as is.
Since the factory system does not have a proper crossover, and I would like to use the factory tweeters up front, I am running new wires from the head unit to a crossover for each side, with wires then run to the door speakers, and the pillar mounted tweeters. I have not had time to do the doors yet, but I don't expect it to go smoothly. I will end up with a 6 speaker system when I'm done.
My logic behind running new wires is if I choose to install aftermarket amps at a later date I don't have to worry about using those piddly little feeble wires that are run with the factory system.
I was told that my new head unit would probably (possibly/maybe) work with the factory amps, but just in case I pulled them out. I would rather do it right than do it twice.
That said, if you're not changing the head unit, just match your speaker size and haveatter, should be a breeze. Also, If you don't have the 8 speaker Clarion Factory system you can probably ignore a lot of what I've just said.
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I've read a lot in the postings about what can be done for suspension lift for a '95 (WD21)
I originally considered a torsion bar crank, upper 'A' arm, new shocks, and JGC coils, but I would like to know what problems to expect with this setup.
after taxes this setup will likely cost me Can$ 525-550 (275-300 for the 'A' arm, 50 for the coils, and 50 per corner for the shocks)
By comparison the kit from Calmini runs about Can$ 900 after taxes and includes all of the above, plus HD torsion bars, new upper ball joints and a drop bracket for the "track bar" (is this panhard?), all in lovely blue powdercoat. But coming up with this much coin at one drop is a bit heavy
If the cheaper setup is not going to cause any problems then I may go that route, but if I should expect problems with weak ball joints, or soft torsion bars, or less than ideal fit I would like to know, and I will consider a kit.
My only concern with the Calmini kit aside from the one time cost is, what about those ball joints, they are not OEM compatible, so if something happens to one, I am at the mercy of Calmini's less than stellar shipping history, and waiting for a replacement instead of a quick trip to Lordco for a Moog replacement.
Give me some feedback on your experiences.
Have you used the Calmini kit or not?
What worked best for you?
What did not work?
Cheers,
Schro.
$4+ a gallon - what's your personal solution
in General Forums
Posted
I'm trying to convince my wife that it will be cheaper for me to re-insure my sport bike. Use the pathy for work (smallest vehicle I could get that would cover my work needs) and put my Suzuki SV650S back on the road.