Crispyc
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Posts posted by Crispyc
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Can anyone tell me what a suitable tool for removing the lower link bushing would be? I tried to tap it out using a large socket and it did not budge.
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I have a 91 Pathfinder I have never serviced the ac in any way and I don't know if it was eber recharged by the previous owner. It blew cool air last summer, but it is not cool now. Can I buy any can of freon from an automotive store to try recharging? is there anything I should do before trying this?
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According to my Chilton manual for '89-'91 models the R-ABS control unit is located below the right dash.
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Can someone tell me how to download this FSM onto a flash drive?
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I found the topic that comntains the link, but my computer freezes every time I click on the topic to get to the link. I am not sure if the problem is with my computer or if it is a site issue. The topic is "Found WD21 service manual" posted by XMAS in Feb '08. If some one would check that out and let me know if it works for them it would be appreciated.
Also, the replies I am reading appear as though they are several pages long, I have to scroll down really far to get from one reply to the next. Is there a setting I can change in regard to that?
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Thanks for the responses. I have a Chilton, but do not have access to it at the moment. I am out of Town and had to diagnose a problem. I had the FSM page bookmarked on the old site, but I have not logged on in a while and did not even know the site had chnged. If I had known I would have found it again before I needed it.
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Is there a link on this new forum to the 94 Factory Service Manual?
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The timing is advanced by about 3 degrees and I sprayed carberator cleaner with the engine running trying to find a vaccum leak. Nothing so far.
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Are the rpms going up and down?
It does go up and down a little bit until the engine warms up. I have not checked the timing yet.
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Although I do have a tap, I'm making referance to a seperate issue. If you hold a piece of paper an inch or two from the exhaust pipe it will periodically suck the paper toward it. I have had a slight prblem with this for a while, but this weekend I changed the sparkplugs, wires, rotor cap and rotor button. After changing them it started doing it a lot, to the point where some times the engine cuts off. When the temperature needle stars to go up it starts to smooth out and when its hot it does not happen at all.
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When my engine idols cold it has a problem with what my brother described as "sucking valve". When it warms up to normal operating temperature it stops doing it. I need a list of possibilities?
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Did they ride like butter when you first put them on compared to the stock shocks?
I think it was probably about the same as stock.
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Timing belt How-To in the garage.
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I have the OME shocks and springs. I agrea with Jittermonkey, they do not add much lift. I like them just fine, but I don't realy have anything to compair them to.
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i have no idea i didn't do the fix. basically there are long metal "skirt" pieces that go over the rod and basically fit between the rod and the frame, both left and right had been eaten through the right one was fused the rod itself somehow so i had to get a new rod. they welded metal the upper part of the whole and sanded it to size and then put the new parts on, no squeek now. but there is a whole in the main cv boot so i got boots but i guess they require some more labour becaue they are backwards from other cars... ?
Ok I got hung-up over the same line as Simon, but I realised LittleRed was the person that I quoted so I guess it dosen't matter.
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let me know if you have any trouble getting the rods back in tho. mine took about 3hrs a piece to put back.
Did you crank down the torsion bars before you started?
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if you get the plate welded, try to weld it to the backside. this sounds like the hardway but welding to the front will increase your castor angle. also IF you want to rplace those bushing cups with something sturdy let me know, you can weld a a bearing cup in place; I have the p/n and supplier for the one that most closelsy fits the oiginal rubber bushing shape. they run like $5 ea, you'll want 4 (front/back both sides). this mod should end all ROD ISSUEs
Would the bearing cup you are reffering to fit a '91 4wd. I noticed the welding on one of my bushing cups is coming loose. Maybe thats what is causing my steering issues.
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I was skimming through the repair manual under 'front axle and suspension' and read that the free running hub "brake set" should be measured for proper thickness. I'm curious though. What would the simptoms of improper thickness be, if any?
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Snorky,
The dealer may have been quoting a price for two whole lower link assemblies, rather than just four bushings. Go to courtesynissanparts.com (which is an official Nissan dealer's web site), the bushings are about $20 apiece from them. Add four bushings to the "shopping cart" then print out the shopping cart page and take that to your dealer. Ask if he will match Courtesys price (ie. throw in some of his commission). If not, order over the web.
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I have a Yakima Mega Warrior (rack and basket) a may be interested in selling. Not a bad basket, but I do not like the bars that go through the middle. If your interested send me a PM, its not goning anywhere any time soon so take time to think about it.
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Is there a "best way" to punch out the upper and lower control arm bushings or do I just use whatever "make shift" tool that will work? Also for putting the new ones in, same question.
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Even if I am going up hill on pavement I must turn the wheel into the hill.
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I have a 91 Pathfinder. When driving on roads that slope to the right my Pathy pulls to the right. If the road slopes to the left the Pathy pulls to the left. It has been doing this for several months now. I have taken it in for alignments several times.
Shocks, springs, torsion bars: 2 years old
steering gear: 4 months old
center link, tie rods, idler arm, upper and lower ball joints: 2 months old
Any ideas on what to look at now?
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How do I adjust it?
Lower link bushing
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
On the front actualy. The part that the four studs for the lower ball joint bolt onto.