2TrakMind

I don't have a lift on it, but do have one torn CV boot. Maybe that's the cause. Thanks for the input!

I replaced my auto locking hubs with manual hubs a year ago, when the autos went bad. 4WD worked fine last winter. I haven't had it in 4wd since the snow thawed. The other day, I locked my hubs (without engaging 4wd)and began driving. Immediately, there was a metallic sounding clunking that increased in speed as I increased my speed. I tried to engage 4wd, but it doesn't seem to engage. If I go in reverse, there is no clunk, and 4wd seems to be locking. Any ideas of what this may be? Thanks!

I just picked up MileMarker hubs from 4x4parts.com for $99 + $13 shipping. I don't know their reputation, but they're guaranteed for life just like WARN.

Thanks for the tips! I removed the hubs on Monday and haven't had the problem since. New hubs arrive tomorrow.

Cool, thanks for the confirmation!

Thanks GrimGreg. The reason I ask about a conversion kit is because I've seen an auto to manual conversion kit on a few sights. One site has this statement; "When Replacing Factory Automatic Hubs With Manual Hubs, You Must Also Purchase Spindle Nut Conversion Kit #29918 (Except For ADD)." Any idea what that means?

I'm driving a 95 Pathy, manual trans, and 31's, completely stock other than the tires. On my way home the other day, driving about 60mph on paved, country roads (read, bumpy). Suddenly there was a loud whirrrrrring noise from the front end. As I slowed to stop, the whirrr turned to clunk, clunk, and I felt the clunk in the front end. It felt to me like the 4wd was trying to engage or something. I got out to investigate, but didn't figure I could see anything...and I didn't. I got back in and again at about 10-15 MPH, the clunk, clunk started again. I stopped again, shifted in to 4-Hi, began driving slowly and shifted back to 2-Hi and the problem went away. Then today, I drove about 15 miles without any noise. Later, I went to get gas and again, clunk, clunk. I poked around the forum here and have deduced that it is to do with my auto hubs. Would y'all concur? If so, what would you recommend? Switch to manual hubs? If so again, do I need to buy the hubs as well as the conversion kit? Also, is it possible to remove the auto hubs and drive the vehicle while I wait for my parts to come? -Thanks!

It's been a while coming, but I finally got the Pathy back on the road. I had to change the fuel pump, because it had burned out. As soon as I put the new one it, I started blowing fuses again. As Simon stated, it is clear that there is an electrical issue, so I checked the connections on the fuel sending unit, and they were all good. After messing with the plugs going to the unit though, it miraculously went away. My guess is that my problem is in there. The question I have though is that when I go to start our other vehicles, the fuel pump runs for about two seconds before shutting off. On the Pathy though, it will run for at least 4 seconds before shutting off. Is this normal, or should it not be running that long? I wondered if it wasn't getting enought "juice" to run the pump at full power, which is causing a delay in pressurizing the system. What do you think?

I've seen several of you talk about replacing your fuel sending units. I think mine may be bad and want to look in to buying one, but can't fine a place that sells them. Any suggestions on where I can find one?

If your t-bars are sagging you may have an issue, but in general it should be fine. I have 31's on my 95 with no lift and it's fine.

A while back I posted about my 95 not starting after it warmed up. It would only sputter, sounding like it was only running on a few cylinders, then die. In an attempt to figure out the problem, I changed the fuel filter. I've only owned it for a few months, so I have no idea when it was last changed...if ever. Well, it ran great for two weeks. Suddenly last week, it up and did it again. Now though, the fuel pump won't run. According to the last owners records, the pump was just changed in January. Shortly after I bought it, I started blowing fuel pump fuses. I would blow 3 or 4, then be fine for weeks, then again a couple more. Now the fuel pump won't run, but the fuse is fine. Here's my question. If the fuel filter was overly dirty, could it cause the fuse on the pump to blow because it has to work so hard to pump the fuel through? In addition, could it cause the fuel pump to burn out that quickly as well? Any ideas? Thanks!

Thanks for the ideas. It's a 95.

Lately, if I stop somewhere and shut my Pathy off after the engine has warmed up, then start it again, it will start, but will idle really weak and rough. If I push the gas, it will bog down and die. If I just let it sit there, the RPM's will slowly decrease until it finally dies. If I give it a few minutes, it will finally start and run just fine. Any ideas?