boothill2008

I know this sounds silly, but I had the same problem with my truck and it was the fuel filter, when was the last time you changed it?

I agree, on the older engine you need to warm it up before you take off, there is a part, I can't remember the name, that my mech. pointed out that helps with that but it is not worth the expense to replace. Mine does fine after a warm up. Good Luck!!

It sounds silly, but have you checked the cable connections at the post, a few things might have happened: 1. The cable connections have worked loose. 2. Corrosion has prevented a good connection, even though the battery is showing a full charge. 3. One of your cables has suffered damage, one time I had a sports car and a cable that was not in plain view was cut and connecting once and a making the problem difficult to diagnose. Good luck!! Boot

I agree, the biggest 2 things that happen are either that it is not fully in park, or that the key has worn and can no longer effectively work the locking mechanism. I had a similar occurance and I resorted to having another key made from the key code. Once that key was made to the original factory code, the lock worked like a champ. Take care, Boot

Thanks to everyone here! The forum has helped me greatly with fixes! I have a 1992 SE 4X4 that used to have an alarm that also controlled the door locks. The locks worked fine from the switch untill 2000 (8 years), and then the switch stopped working intermittently, and then stopped altogether. Occasionally they lock/unlock on their own if I push 1 down or pull up manually. Does this sound like a problem with the switch? Or is there some other part that I should be looking at? Thanks again, Boot

Help!!! I noticed my brake master cylinder has needed filling about every 2 months, I don't see any obvious leaks from the master cylinder, and no fluid is visible weeping onto the wheels, what's the best way to troubleshoot this leak?? Thanks, Boot

I had the same problem below the driver's floor pan right my the oxygen sensor, after using Liquid Wrench and tapping it a few times, it came out using a 6 sided socket on a universal. The bolts were trashed, and I ended up replacing them with new ones. Inspect the area of the exhaust gasket, if it is slightly warped you may end up replacing that gasket again. The space was cramped, and it seemed like it took an hour to get the bolt on the engine side in as I could only get about a quarter turn each time.... Hope that helps, Boot

According to my manual, the power steering pump pulley should have and adjusting bolt and a pivot bolt (same piece, pivot is on the side of the adjusting bolt). Both need to be loosened to move the power steering pump/pully to loosen the tension on the belt. Unfortunately, I do not have a pic and am headed out or I would scan it for you. This is on the v-6 engine by the way. I hope this helps..... Boot

Hi Russ, I have had a 1993 and a currently own a 1992 Pathy SE, both had to have trannys replaced unfortunately. So I have to agree with Packie88, you may need a new trans. Sorry, Boot

Greetings All!! I have a 1992 Pathy SE that I had a valve job done on last year, now the rear main seal is leaking. How involved is that repair? Is it worth doing, or should I look for another Pathy? Thanks, Boot

Thanks for the info, wide range of prices..., 1 dealer want $130, another $60, I finally found a dealer that had one for $45 including shipping....lol

My guages stopped working, for a while they would work on and off, especially the gas guage. Later, the gas guage and the temperature guage stopped working but Oil and speedo work fine. I have checked all of the fuses, and they look fine. My electric door locks have stopped working also....Has anyone else had a similar problem? Thanks, Boot